Not my car but typical of the rear jacking point...The rust has been ground out in the first pic.
The second car has had the surface rust treated before it gets to bad.
This is what I've come up with bearing in mind internally the sills are well protected with wax.
1) The area around the tube flexes when the jack is used and cracks the paint.The weld itself doesn't rust but the sheet metal of the sill in contact with it does.With time this spreads out in a circular fashion.This is external corrosion.
2)The plastic cladding (removed in the pics) means the area remains damp throughout the winter.
3)The different properties of the sheet and weld metal may by itself cause corrosion.
4)blocked sill drain holes can make matters worse.
Funnily enough a car may well pass an MOT in this state.Testers don't remove the plastic cover and (I may be wrong here) a holed sill is ok as long as it's not within 30cm of a structural mounting point.The rear subframe mount is a little bit further back than that.The rubber jacking block support structure is still intact in the first pic. If this was rotted out you would have big problems with repair access.
Anyone know how much a repair of this area would be..maybe nick froome may know ? A sheet with a hole in welded over the sill should do it.
adam
The second car has had the surface rust treated before it gets to bad.
This is what I've come up with bearing in mind internally the sills are well protected with wax.
1) The area around the tube flexes when the jack is used and cracks the paint.The weld itself doesn't rust but the sheet metal of the sill in contact with it does.With time this spreads out in a circular fashion.This is external corrosion.
2)The plastic cladding (removed in the pics) means the area remains damp throughout the winter.
3)The different properties of the sheet and weld metal may by itself cause corrosion.
4)blocked sill drain holes can make matters worse.
Funnily enough a car may well pass an MOT in this state.Testers don't remove the plastic cover and (I may be wrong here) a holed sill is ok as long as it's not within 30cm of a structural mounting point.The rear subframe mount is a little bit further back than that.The rubber jacking block support structure is still intact in the first pic. If this was rotted out you would have big problems with repair access.
Anyone know how much a repair of this area would be..maybe nick froome may know ? A sheet with a hole in welded over the sill should do it.
adam
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