To accept or not to accept. That is the question.

[npuk]

I phoned them up this morning to tell them that I would not be taking them up on their offer having found a 2010 tailgate on ebay in what looks to be the same colour for £235. The only problem is thats its miles away and there is no way I can view it but at least I know that they are there to have for not much more than what Mercedes are wanting for a temporary repair.

2010 would be post facelift, check that there were no rear end changes.

 

[MB-BTurbo]

I wondered whether driving this around and parking outside the dealership might make them change their minds as to the percentage they are offering.

 

[MB-BTurbo]

2010 would be post facelift, check that there were no rear end changes.

They changed the handle and wiring. If this is present on the tailgate then it is good to go. If not they are a £80 extra from Mercedes on top of the actual price of the tailgate. You would have though that they would include a handle with the tailgate but apparently not.

 

[John]

I wondered whether driving this around and parking outside the dealership might make them change their minds as to the percentage they are offering.

I believe this has worked in the past for other owners with other issues.

I think it needs to be more obvious than that though!

 

[MB-BTurbo]

Interesting. I wasnt actually going to do that but if its that effective...

Anyway I need to treat what I do have. Jut recapping do I need to rub the area concerned down to bare metal, reprime and touch up? Do I need to put anything on the area to treat it or just get rid of the existing rust?

 

[grober]

Rub it down with wet and dry making sure you get past the edge of the rusted area to clean metal. If the metal surface is pitted treat it with a rust converter Rust converter - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia before priming. Then prime with a suitable rust resistant primer and then paint. You might want to go the POR 15 route instead for non visible areas. this kit would probably do. BLACK POR15 POR-Starter Kit | Frost Auto Restoration Techniques

 

[MB-BTurbo]

I am thinking about using some arcol rust converter that my brother in law has. He is a welder by trade and has worked with all kinds of metal and swears by it. He hasnt used it on cars though so would it be ok to paint over directly as it says its a primer as well.

 

[grober]

I am thinking about using some arcol rust converter that my brother in law has. He is a welder by trade and has worked with all kinds of metal and swears by it. He hasnt used it on cars though so would it be ok to paint over directly as it says its a primer as well.

This guy used arcol on his 107 subframe. post #8 107 Front subframe overhaul - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

 

[MB-BTurbo]

Thats more of a robust set up isnt it rather than needing a fine automotive paint finish over the top. It does seem to be the sort of thing Im after but elsewhere I read that you should acid etch the metal after sanding it away but my brother in law says that might lead to issues with the acid eating into the metal. He concedes that he is no auto bodyshop expert though so just need clarification before I hack into an obvious part of the tailgate.

 

[grober]

Rust converters use mild acids --- Tannic or dilute Phosphoric acid or similar ---to react with any traces of remaining Ferric oxide [rust] which cannot be removed by abrasion converting it to the more stable Ferric Tannate or Phosphate which form a more stable substrate for priming and painting. Any excess converter not reacted is simply washed away with copious water afterwards. Maybe this is the etching referred to?? This may leave a pitted surface which can be flatted to a fine finish with subsequent layers of rust resistant primer application and sanding down. Once an acceptable surface is achieved it can be masked off and spray painted by aerosol-- colour followed by clear lacquer. You will never achieve a professional finish with this method and I would only recommend this for limited small damaged areas in non conspicuous areas.

 

[MB-BTurbo]

I was speaking to my mate today who has a BMW M3 convertible that he bought from new. His reason? He had moved to BMW after a couple of years ago he had a SL55 AMG that started to rust after 3 years. With considerable more clout than I have he marched into the showroom and started asking the salesman what the Mercedes brand stood for. "Prestige, quality engineering" etc etc was the reply before he was promptly taken outside and shown the offending areas.

All the red faced salesman had to say was "well it will be fixed under warranty" which of course it was but his confidence in the marque diminished faster than the car drove. I think his pride was dented knowing that his £80,000 sports car was in a worse state than all the other 'normal' cars on the road.

 

[MB-BTurbo]

Rust converters use mild acids --- Tannic or dilute Phosphoric acid or similar ---to react with any traces of remaining Ferric oxide [rust] which cannot be removed by abrasion converting it to the more stable Ferric Tannate or Phosphate which form a more stable substrate for priming and painting. Any excess converter not reacted is simply washed away with copious water afterwards. Maybe this is the etching referred to?? This may leave a pitted surface which can be flatted to a fine finish with subsequent layers of rust resistant primer application and sanding down. Once an acceptable surface is achieved it can be masked off and spray painted by aerosol-- colour followed by clear lacquer. You will never achieve a professional finish with this method and I would only recommend this for limited small damaged areas in non conspicuous areas.

The area concerned is very small and only noticeable under close inspection despite being in an obvious area. I was intending to use a touch up pen rather than an aerosol that would involve spraying a much larger area in order to blend in. I know that the pen would leave obvious join lines but it must be better than the protruding bubbles I have now.