To Burgundy, by BMW and Bristol

[Charles Morgan]

...and a Jaguar XF-R too, but that lacks the Bees to do the business for the title.

A long planned wine tasting and driving trip with friends to the Rhone valley turned by degrees into one to Burgundy and rather than a large convoy with a Pagoda and a DB5, we ended up with just the three, me in an 02, Richard in a Bristol 405 drophead coupe from 1956, and Keith in a Jaaag...(and he dropped out with a dodgy hip after just a day in France), so then there were just two.

As the Silver City Bristol Freighter service from Lydd to Le Touquet has ended, the Ferry was chosen as a leisurely break with lunch in Langans is much more attractive than standing in the Euroshuttle. Priority boarding was well worth the tenner - straight on and off, no 20 minute delays.

The first night's stay was in Chablis, source of some of the finest white wines in France. Electing for speed to Troyes, the autoroute is perfect, and with only one stop to refill (on the dot of 155 miles since filling up in Dover - the distances calculated by road signs, as my mileometer has long since packed up) - at a near constant 80mph, the 02 averaged exactly 30 mpg, brim to brim (or overflow to overflow - the tank just keeps filling).

After Troyes (and the loss of the Jaaaag to driver impatience - "bloody satnav - been going round in circles for an hour"), the D road to Chablis swept through beautiful woods and valleys, wonderful driving country with superb views of the road ahead:

It is a long time since I have driven roads of this comparative emptiness, and I was reminded in a way of the holidays in France of my youth, with no autoroutes and seemingly endless roads lined with tree sunshades for the German army....

It was not hard work keeping up with the Bristol, but in the hands of someone with an intimate awareness of its strengths and foibles, he could really make it shift.

My 02 was an absolute blast. Since mapping it has oodles of usable torque, can be revved progressively to a tuneful 6500 revs, and with only 1000kgs (ignoring me) it can really shift. Add in the immediacy of very direct steering, go-kart like handling, kept in the right rev band, with a close ratio box, watch out snoozing Citroens and road-blocking Renaults. Oh, and Bye Bye Bristols..

Needless to say, I got there first. The 02 in front of the 1er cru Montmains vineyard in Chablis.

While we waited for the Jaaag ("I'm going home, bloody sat-nav") - how he made the last 8kms without any navigational skills at all...a chance to admire the Bristol's BMW derived straight six 2 litre engine, with triple Solex carbs - a very tall set up. Capable of 105 bhp, but mostly low revving torque focussed, with a light car, this was capable in the old days of 120 mph, largely as a result of a wind-tunnel styled car.

A small dinner in the Michelin starred Hostellerie Des Clos (where we also stayed) washed down with some Dauvissat Chablis Les Clos 04 and an excellent Chevillon NSG Les Vaucrains 02, and the day ended well.

 

[Palfrem]

Sounds just too grim for words.

 

[Charles Morgan]

It was hard work, and I haven't even begun to describe the wine tasting, which I might pass over to spare the sensitive.

 

[Palfrem]

No Charles, confront your demons. Seek closure. Formulate and embrace your personal coping strategy.

It was such a heroic and selfless act to put yourself in the way of potentially disappointing beverages and mediocre fare to spare us the need to expose ourselves to the rigours of such a punishing journey.

I doff my metaphorical cap.

 

[Charles Morgan]

The second day was free of wine tasting anyway, as we had planned some longer, spirited but less manic drives up to Vezelay and then through the Morvan to the Cote D'Or in Burgundy, where we were staying at Aloxe-Corton, one of the many wine villages along the Cote, that takes the second part of its name from the famous vineyard most associated with it. In this case, Corton, the only red Grand Cru of the Cotes du Beaune.

Setting off - forgot his Connolly driving gloves:

Vezelay is a magnificent Benedictine Abbey turned Basilica, on the edge of the Morvan hills of Burgundy.

It was also the starting point of the French part of the pilgrim route to Santiago de Compostela, from where so many thousands of pilgrims set off on an arduous and terrible journey (but they could be sure of the scallop shell, the symbol of St James and by extension all pilgrims),

The view from the high altar down the nave

Vezelay was also from where St Bernard preached the Second Crusade, and the English and French contingents met to join the Third Crusade. In a sense any trip to Burgundy is a wine pilgrimage for me, and the history of the monasteries of Burgundy is intimately bound up with the development of the Cote d'Or as the producer of some of the finest wines known to man, beloved of voluptuaries and gourmands.

Which is ironic, for the reasons Burgundy was popular with religious, was it was remote, hard terrain, offering the chance to re-create the spiritual desert that inspired the original monks of the Sinai desert. First the great Benedictine house of Cluny in southern Burgundy, which supplied numerous reforming popes of the 11th century, and from which innumerable monasteries trace their origin, and then as Cluny grew fat and lazy on the wealth derived from offerings for prayers from the pious, the great order of Cistercians was founded. With lands close to the Cote D'Or, Citeaux became a powerhouse of agricultural development. First, its spirituality placed great emphasis on physical work - Laborare est Orare (to work is to pray) and it admitted peasants without property as lay brothers, not quite equal to the mostly noble monks, but given the opportunity of monastic life, at the time considered a surefire way to gain spiritual merit and thereby salvation. To get this, they had to work, and so they set about taming and clearing the countryside miles from civilisation (the great Cistercian houses of England - Jervaulx, Rievaulx and Fountains among many others exemplify this). For wine, necessary for the Altar and for healthy drinking the vineyards of the Cote were cleared and planted by numerous orders, and over time a hierarchy of vineyards became clear. We shall return to this.

 

[finisterre]

As an aside, the walk to Santiago is jolly long. I have done 400 miles, so far. If you ever consider it may I suggest the autumn is the best time. The locals all along the route ply you with fresh grapes from their yards as you pass. A lot of them will also pull out a bottle if you show an interest, which is somehow glorious because you are standing on the soil that produced it.

 

[Charles Morgan]

The cars certainly attracted attention, the Bristol definitely attracting the OAP crowd, whereas I was congratulated numerous times by the Jeunesse D'Oree of the Cote. So he got the wrinklies, I got the twinkies.

Not as old as the average:

From Vezelay to Aloxe was just magnificent driving, a combination of sweeping straights, gentle and fast corners, and roads undulating up and down, twisting and turning through hilly countryside. The Bristol took the lead, me in the middle and the Jaag behind. Richard knew his car and gave it its head, and it could lift its skirts to overtake. He signalled the road ahead remained clear by staying on the left, so I could zoom past. The Jaaag XFR was phenomenal in a straight line, but Keith didn't trust the car enough, so he soon fell behind.

Then, after lunch, an epiphany I shall never forget. I got to drive the Bristol - for the afternoon. We had arranged for cover to drive in case of need, but I hadn't expected to be actually driving it properly. The 405 has a superb aluminium body on a light ash frame. Supposedly built by Abbots of Farnham the body is curving and voluptuous, the nose it is claimed, a leftover Bristol aircraft engine nacelle.

Bristol, an aircraft manufacturer of tremendous pedigree, moved into making cars as it became clear that after WWII demand for aircraft would collapse. They bought Frazer Nash, who opportunistically grabbed BMW technical staff and drawings, and starting building cars using the engines and designs from pre-war BMW 327 and 328 cars. (Richard informed me that they had apparently considered a rotary engine based on an aero one, but the torque was an insuperable problem).

Anyway, the engine was a warmed up 2 litre BMW six and it was a delight. Not high revving, but refined with enough torque to shift the car decently, the only sign of its 105 horses being inadequate was on hills. You sit high up, with a majestic engine cowl and wings in front of you, and the most tremendous aero inspired dash.

The ergonomics are, to put it mildly, somewhat random. On the right of the instruments is a little toggle switch that engages the overdrive. The four speed gearbox was stunningly easy to use, almost rifle bolt like in its action, and with the torque band, third sufficed for all bar starting and gunning. The ventilation was very effective with the roof down, the heater not terribly effective even with the sun out. A polo shirt was not quite the right dress.

Apart from the sheer Mr Toad joy of motoring in a surprisingly modern way, was that the car was built in 1956. At the time, my father had joined Bristol Aircraft company as a young clerk in the PR department, and he regularly walked by the car production line to see these magnificent vehicles being put together. So he was over the moon when I mentioned I'd driven his vintage of car and next time he is in London, Richard will give him a ride

Handling was precise and cornering decent, although a racing line through corners was more enjoyable, while the drum brakes did stop the car well, but generally about 20 seconds after you thought it should. The seats lacked lumbar support and you sit ramroad straight.

The exhaust sound was a gentle putter. In short a most refined and lovely car to drive.

 

[trapperjohn]

Love that dash. And that wheel is very early areoplane design.

Lovely story and great pictures.

 

[Charles Morgan]

It is a beauty all round, John. Apparently only 20 are left running.

Last photo tonight. The guy on the left is David Clark, a Scot who set up in Burgundy in 2004, making wines in Morey St Denis. He used to be an engineer for Williams F1, so much car talk. Richard is in the middle, the others are fellow winelovers from my group in London, who were by coincidence in Burgundy too. I shall be liquid lunching with them tomorrow....

 

[bolide]

Wine tasting in Burgundy...

It's a tough job, but someone has to do it!

Nick Froome

 

[jonnyboy]

I don't know how youcope with it all Charles, I really don't.

 

[Charles Morgan]

I am like an Olympic marathon runner, years of training and a body honed by science and dedication.

In my next instalment, the wines and terroir of the Cote D'Or. This will follow lunch, so it might be a bit fluent...

Meanwhile, a nose for the finest - can anyone guess the location? The commune would do as a starter.

 

[corned]

Meanwhile, a nose for the finest - can anyone guess the location?

Not sure of the exact commune, but I am fairly certain that that nose came from Munich.

 

[Charles Morgan]

Michelotti designed the 02, so one might argue Turin, which is of course right next door to Barolo, my second favourite red wine after Burgundy, and sharing many similar characteristics.

But Munich yes.

 

[mattc]

Meanwhile, a nose for the finest - can anyone guess the location? The commune would do as a starter.

Clos de Vougeat or Beze or Chambertain or... or... or... take your pick (which clearly you did!). No real idea as have never been to that part of France

 

[finisterre]

pope house nine?

 

[Palfrem]

Charles - will your trials never end

 

[snoop51]

I feel for you Charles I really do, it must have been horrendous for you.

I've got to wait until September for my next sojourn to France and won't be travelling as far inland as you, heading for Faymoreau, Vendee. Can't wait!

 

[st4]

Utterly wonderful, I am no wine buff but that looks a rather pleasant jolly you've had

 

[Charles Morgan]

Clos de Vougeat or Beze or Chambertain or... or... or... take your pick (which clearly you did!). No real idea as have never been to that part of France

Not bad - about half a km south of Clos de Vougeot, (Chambertin and Chambertin Clos de Beze c. a Km to the north of Clos de Vougeot). Not for the guess for this, but my car was parked a little earlier right by the Clos, with the magnificent Musigny on the right:

and the wall of the Clos Vougeot (a Clos is a walled vineyard in Burgundian parlance) the largest single vineyard appellation, and containing the Chateau of the Clos, an old Cistercian grange (those monks, at it again):

and the road we were on - a modern path, wending its way through the vineyards south to Cluny (the monastic powerhouse to which I referred earlier) and Le Puy, where the bishop who was papal legate on the First Crusade, Adhemar, came from (great lentils too) and north to the pilgrim route from Vezelay. I love these little echoes of history, sounding gently through the present.