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To Burgundy, by BMW and Bristol

The scene, a side road to the North West of Nuits-St-Georges, the main town (one and a half horse) of the Cote de Nuits, the northern part of the Cote d'Or. To avoid the rush hour a Baltic Blue BMW 02 is working its way around the edge of the vineyards where they touch the town. The driver, confronted with the choice or three roads where the map says one, opts for the centre one, un-contradicted by his navigator, who is busy texting his mate Aussie Max, the guy with the Pagoda who couldn't come at the last minute, about the magnums he has just bought.

Intoxicated not by any wine, (spitting only for the designated driver), but by the sound of a free revving little 2 litre with an over-sized exhaust, so driving a little fast, suddenly, from nowhere, a drainage ditch hidden by a dip in a rising vineyard road seizes the boy racer spoiler and snaps it in two. Worse, the bolts holding the same, over-sized, intoxicating exhaust, ground on the hump (or hump the ground). Driver, for it was me, regrets car is not a sensible W124 and hates to think of the damage done a long way from home.

This is where travelling with an experienced classic car owner has its benefits, for the motto don't panic might have been written by Richard. Running a 55 year old car presents more challenges than a mere 39 year old one, and serenity is a useful virtue. A quick inspection of the underside, no damage obvious, and with the visible grounding points understood, before long, two strapping men are seen bouncing up and down on the bonnet, springing the car loose. One snapped spoiler later, the only injury being to pride, and to the notion that a low slung car is suitable for vineyard tours.

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So, you may ask, why the drainage ditches? The sun is shining, we are 300 miles south of the UK, and the cherries are ripe on the trees.

Well, Burgundy lies at the northern extremity of where it is possible to ripen Pinot Noir (the dominant red grape of the area then - Gamay, now used in Beaujolais - having been declared unfit for human consumption by a decree of Duke Philip the Bold in 1395.). There is a perpetual battle for ripeness, and every degree of vineyard sun exposure, the warmth of the soil, the position on slope affecting soil depth and drainage, all making a huge impact on the ripeness of the grapes at the end of the season, the soil type and vine clone also affecting flavour.

The monks of Citeaux noticed this. Each year parts of their large vineyard holdings would have similar flavours and ripeness that were different from other parts. Over time, the vineyards were given names and it was noted which were consistently better and which weren't, and lo, the middle of the slope, either south east or south west facing, that got the sun as long as possible each day, that were well drained, became the most vaunted. Higher up, or lower down, the wines were not so good, but nevertheless very fine, while right at the top of the slope, or in the wetter, deeper bottom, the grapes were less ripe.

And in one simple paragraph, the entire notion of vineyard classification and the wonder of terroir explained and made easy.

So where was my car parked - right below Romanee-Conti, above Romanee St Vivant, in the commune of Vosne-Romanee. Romanee-Conti is the apotheosis of grand Burgundy, in great vintages such as 2005 each bottle now selling for £10,000 before VAT and duty. Romanee St Vivant, another great grand cru, sells for a mere £1,000 each. The road and parking spot is in the latter, a mere 12 yards separating the two. Terroir.

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Not at all. Richard refused to be seen in some beaten up boy racer, so I got to drive his Bristol for a whole further day. First time I have never minded spitting everything two days in a row.

It also got me home in style, I'll skate over it conking out completely 500 yards after dropping it off in Brighton where Nick Froome has been helping me fettle it. I like loyal cars.
 
An excellent tour, Charles, and an excellent write-up. Thanks. I hope the spoiler incident hasn't knocked too much of the shine off the trip.

Reminds me of a trip of mine around the Cognac area (and producers) many years ago. This included a guided tour around Chateau Cognac on the first day on which it had been open to the public since it was built. Lucky was I that day. Dégustation? Certainement! The trouble was that we did the trip in a Volvo 840 saloon. Not quite as memorable as in a classic!
 
Not at all, the trip was superb, and enormous fun. I won't bore people with notes of tastings, but most wines were superb, and definitively in the affordable range. Running an old car is more work than a modern car, and noise levels could make things hard work, but the sensation of driving the 02 is an immediate one, it goes where you want in ways heavier cars struggle too. Richard's verdict on it was that it was quite brilliant, and far more usable than a similar vintage Porsche 911, without the extremes of performance and discomfort.

Meanwhile, Burgundy is a beautiful, and well worth the trip. So to finish, some vineyard and cellar porn.

The vines of Romanee-Conti

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The vineyard machinery

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The cote from above La Tache, looking north

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The 2010 reds in barrel at Marc Roy

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Just a few bottles at the same domain

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Chandon de Briailles - get rid of the other cars and the Bristol is right at home!

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Wonderful pictures, I'm off to to the Vendee in a few days, looking forward to the journey as much as the actual holiday.
 
Many thanks Charles for a great write up and the wonderful photo's. Sorry the tii got damaged and pleased it performed well after the Re-Map, the 2002 is best BMW made.
 
... I won't bore people with notes of tastings, but most wines were superb, and definitively in the affordable range.

I did a similar trip earlier this year, though for different reasons. I defer to your vastly greater knowledge of wine and all things fine, but I have to say I thought the wines in the restaurants of the area were mostly way over-priced and largely of poor quality. It certainly seems to me that Burgundy has the world's most over-rated wines at the lower end. I personally supect that it is the small number of stellar wines from the region that are supporting a large number of hangers-on. Maybe we weren't spending enough.

The only exception was an excellent Chablis enjoyed in the little enclosed garden of Hostellerie des Clos (though the restaurant is no longer serving the cullinary delights that it used to).

Even beer, at a whopping €4.50 for 25cl (in Beaune) made my eyes water.

Despite that, our trip was wonderful and I agree that it is an enchanting region; your lovely photos are much appreciated (love your BMW and that Bristol).
 
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It is a long time since I have driven roads of this comparative emptiness...

Thanks for a great write up and the evocative images, Charles. It is heartening to learn that I am not the only one who happens to think that driving on the French rural road system is very civilised. I also like the preservation of French history, which seems pervasive whenever I visit France. Driving on N routes and smaller plus the opportunity to sample rustic French food and wine is probably what accounts for my being a confirmed Gallophile. I am not especially knowledgeable about fine wines but I have often picked up truly remarkable though nondescript home-brewed bottles of plonk at a traditional vide grenier, for next to nothing.
 
I thought the wines in the restaurants of the area were mostly way over-priced and largely of poor quality. It certainly seems to me that Burgundy has the world's most over-rated wines at the lower end.

In many respects, Burgundy (like much of France) is probably the worse place to get hold of good low end Burgundies. For every superstar there are probably 20 good guys, and 100 middling to poor. In far too many restaurants the wines were just way too young (the economics of restaurant winelists makes this pretty likely for all bar the longest established), and in many cases those wines were in that closed period where Burgundy is at its most miserable. I have enough knowledge to cope with a well selected list, but on one evening when we changed our plans and went to the local auberge, there was not a single producer I knew, and the wine was neither cheap nor good. Yet there were other restaurants (the Auberge du Pot d'Etain in Isle sur Serein) where the food was a bit better than OK, but the wine list was absolutely stunning and in most cases priced at less than retail. Given for that evening I was with several friends, one of whom, Howard Ripley, introduced most of the then un-heard of but now superstars of Burgundy to the UK market, we drank extraordinarily well for the price of a so-so Cru Bourgeois claret.

In other words, if the restaurant has done its work, the knowledgeable can bask in the success of the sommelier, if it hasn't, then heaven help the uninitiated! In more Southern regions that happens less, as the wines tend to be richer and less vintage sensitive.

Anyway, I shall go back, but when my piggybank is a bit fuller.
 
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Great part of the world, and you talking about a Chablis Montmains 1er cru is forcing me towards my stocks. I particularly like the Jean Collet version:)

I'm often in that part of the world in November whilst heading south for some slightly more prosaic wine - one of the pleasures of the trip is spending a day or two jaunting around the burgundy villages.
 
My friend Richard, owner of the Bristol drophead, was diagnosed with pancreatic cancer 3 weeks after returning from this trip. He bore the endless rounds of chemo with considerable fortitude and immense good humour, but sadly he died this afternoon surrounded by his family. I have visions of him discussing the Talmud and Bristols with LJK Setright somewhere, but however expected, this hurts hard.

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RIP my friend
 
Charles

Please accept my condolences for the loss of your friend. He sounded like a fine chap and a great loss to all who were fortunate to have known him.

David
 
Both Elizabeth's and my condolences too Charles.

Edit.

How fitting your photograph is of him driving off over the horizon.
 
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Charles

Life is for living. Your friend seems to have done a good job of it whilst on this mortal coil.

May he rest in peace.
 

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