Very Light Scratches or Whirl Marks

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Now there's an idea. I've got a DA polisher on it's way, mainly because I've been looking at the price of having it done by a professional.
Went for this. Got 10% off and free delivery.

DAS-6 v2 Dual Action Polisher - Menzerna Intro. Kit - Clean Your Car

I'll let you know how I get on, warts and all. :-D
I have this machine, it’s very good and relatively easy to use. I do most of my polishing at speeds 4-5 and have never had a problem yet.
I found watching tutorial YouTube videos really helpful and boosted my confidence before I got stuck in. It’s all down to the level of initial scratch depth as to which grade you start using before progressing to the finer polishes.
Don’t forget to seal the hard work with a good quality wax or paint sealant after your polishing and it keep its shine for months :)
 
08D03A3B-40FE-46E8-A211-9ED807F6B651.jpeg This a picture of my bonnet which had light scratches and hologram swirls on. This was using the DA machine and a medium fine pad and polish. Then sealed with a coat of Double Speed Wax.
 
Hi Zahc,
I'm new to Mercedes and the forum myself, but keen to help where I can.
I have three MG's as toys which I show and I find certain compounds and polishes very useful.
I rarely use a DA, or Polishing mop unless I have a lot of traffic film, I normally use the following compounds.
Microfibers I use to apply.
3M Perfect It 2
Followed by
3M Finesse It
Followed By
3M Handglaze
Optional
Harley Wax
Try them by hand, and start with a single panel like the bonnet first.
The first item, is a light (very) abrasive and will remove light scratches, waxes, films etc.
The second is an ultra fine compound, which bridges over the light compound.
The third is a fast glaze, but I use it to remove swirls (also good on walnut venire)
The wax gives the depth and protection. And this is the best I've found so far.
Give up the Gym Membership, this will give you a great work out !
 
Hi Zahc,
I'm new to Mercedes and the forum myself, but keen to help where I can.
I have three MG's as toys which I show and I find certain compounds and polishes very useful.
I rarely use a DA, or Polishing mop unless I have a lot of traffic film

Try them by hand, and start with a single panel like the bonnet first.
The first item, is a light (very) abrasive and will remove light scratches, waxes, films etc.
The second is an ultra fine compound, which bridges over the light compound.
The third is a fast glaze, but I use it to remove swirls (also good on walnut venire)
The wax gives the depth and protection. And this is the best I've found so far.
Give up the Gym Membership, this will give you a great work out !
Hi there you talk about “traffic film”

A good rinse, wash, tar remover and fallout remover + clay bar will remove “traffic film”

The last thing you want to do is to shift imbedded particles into a microfibre and then rub them back and forth, this will cause further clear coat damage. Best to remove all foreign debris from the paint/lacquer then polish the vehicle. This will remove only the necessary amount of damaged paint/lacquer to give a flat, clean scratch free finish. This is only seen when the car is unwaxed as some finishing products/sealants fill micro scratches giving the ‘appearance’ of a good finish.

A DA machine used with knowledge is a far superior tool for car bodywork preparation.
 
Absolutely, goes without saying the car needs to be cleaned first.
The only times I've used polishing mops are with compounds after spraying and the paints hardened. And to remove overspray. After that i do it manually. Unless its really bad and needs a good cut back of course.
Your right you need to know what your doing with polishing equipment, can make things worse sometimes.
 

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