Viano / Vito 2012 W639 Electric Sliding Door Lock Issue. Possible Solution

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The larger screw, lower forward, is a T45.
The smaller screw, higher rearward, is a T25.
Both behind push in covers.

Along the bottom are 3x pushins, with cross head plastic screws into those.

The lock button trim needs to be prised upward and removed prior to card removal.

The plastic bulge cover, over the heavy door stop, is just prised clear. Removal of the door stop is easy, but perhaps not required.

On the blind side, at the top, can be seen the plastic that pushes onto steel clips on the door. If cold this can be brittle. The photo shows one part of the plastic has broken off.


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Blimey m80 it looks a right pain of a job and where's the lock ? is that the same to get too ... bloody hard i bet
The lock is at the back of the door, opposite the hasp on the pillar.
Accessible from the inside, held by 3 torx screws.
Release those and the lock needs to be manipulated forwards before it can be swung inwards on the 3 wire rope cables.
Some twisting, up / down manipulation is needed to free it. And watch for sharp edges on the fingers.

When freed the wire rope cables need be prised out of the mechanism, the ends lifted / rotated free, and then unplug the electrics. On mine there are 2 plugs, on earlier just one.

Mine's back together now.
I'm waiting for a new middle rear roller, as the bearing has collapsed on one of 'em, possibly due to my slamming it when it didn't want to lock.

There are 2 types of those also. For the electric doors there are 2 lugs underside, for the pull / push rope cables to clip onto.
Then I'll run the normalisation programme again, even though it is doing as it should. And I reckon, like lecky windows after a battery change, up down, and hold the button up for a few seconds should do it anyway.

Oh, if anyone is changing their rear roller, watch out as when un bolted the door will want to fall rearwards. That's all that carries the back of the door.
It's within DAB (Star).
But I would have thought that opening / closing a few times would do it.

After replacing a battery often a window will drop an inch after closing. If the window is opened / closed a couple of times and the open button held up a few seconds that overcomes the dropping an inch.
'Course with the doors there is no obvious 'up' button. But maybe the dash button, or pillar button, would do instead?
This post has been a life saver, particularly the one with the micro-switch removed. I zoomed, cropped, cleared the background, and reverse google searched the image. I located a G303-130E05A3-FA P67 wire type waterproof micro switch for car door lock on AliExpress. This is not an exact match, but is close enough to do the job. And so, for a couple of quid, your van door issue will likely be gone.

The switch varies on having three wires (I cut the middle one out, as the grey and black are the ones you want (which coincidentally are the same as those in the lock). The locating pins unfortunately are only on one side, and they are approximately twice as long. So you'll need to cut them down, or you'll have trouble inserting them. The RHS lock is very straight forward, but I recommend adding some kind of mastic, glue, to the left to ensure it doesn't move, do to the lack of locating pins. And the activation tang needs to be cut back just before the bend, so that it is only as wide as the switch in the depressed position.

I really regret not taking pictures of my own, and I'm not about to take it apart to show you now. However, I'll describe the process, and if you have questions I'll try to answer as best I can

1. Remove door skin. There are 4 screws in the door, two beneath small square covers that can be popped out. These are star (no idea what they are officially called) slotted screws. The other two are located under the cover of the door opening stop. There are 3 expanding plug fasteners along the bottom (good luck getting these rotten things out in one piece). After removal of the screws and the plug fasteners, gently pries the panel away. All fasteners push into the door, so simply pull it out away from the door.

2. Unscrew the lock from the door, this is obviously done from outside of the vehicle, with door open.

3. Remove the lock from the car by unplugging the two electrical connectors, which have clips that you squeeze together before pulling apart.

4. Remove the actuating wires. Place a flat bladed screwdriver under the plastic at the point the wires connect to the lock. Gently pries up, and they will pop out. Lift the black wire, rotate 90 degrees and remove from the lock. Repeat with the longer of the two white wires. The last of the wires just needs to be lifter 90 to extract from the mechanism.

5. Remove the electron actuator and the plastic shield. There are 3 screws securing these items. find the two wires (one grey one black) going from the actuator to the micro-switch. Cut these halfway. (This stops the actuator from flying around whilst you extract the switch.

6. Using a flat blade again pry the black plastic casting that holds the switch in place. Slide it out in the along the line of the two locating pins. This is tricky, feel free to swear a lot at this point. (take note of the orientation)

7. Insert the new switch, remembering that the open end of the switch lever goes into the lock first. The right hand side will click into place, but the other may not, depending on the condition of the end of the plastic plat where you extracted the old one. For the left hand side, try adding glue or some form of adhesive to ensure the switch doesn't move. Solder the wires to the actuator and reverse the instructions to put everything back to get.

8. Smugly open and close your doors free of error lights.
Brilliant! Please could you attach a link to the switch you bought, or is it simple a case of searching on the code you have kindly listed? Sounds like an ideal fix.
Well done!
Whilst I'm done with this, I did find a manufacturer on AliExpress who may be able to provide an exact copy. There is even a breakdown of the codes to "describe" the switch required.

I reckon something like G303-130E02B12 would be about right.
Brilliant! Please could you attach a link to the switch you bought, or is it simple a case of searching on the code you have kindly listed? Sounds like an ideal fix.
Well done!
It's at the top of the post, but searching should work too. 2.61ï¿¡ |G303-130e05a3-fa P67 Wire Type Waterproof Micro Switch For Car Door Lock - Switches & Relays - AliExpress

It's in Aus pesos, so really only a couple of quid for you wealthy English types.
New micro switch fitted into the lock on mine on 4th March, so far so good.
Tbh, apart from lock replacement, it seems the easier way to go with these.
Wow, I never knew my simple post would generate this long a post. Loads of useful info on here. I'm back because my micro switch bodge, Has deteriorated over time ( knew it would ) to the point that now if you stop at a junction the doors open by them selves. Which adds to the fun. It did solve the issue for quite a long while though, so proved to myself that the micro switches are the cause of all the issues. Resigned myself to buying new actuators. but bulked at the price and the unavailability. Loving the Magnetic reed switch solution. That seems like a hundred year fix. But to keep it all original, I will get a couple of micro switches. via Ali express. and wire them in. Thank you all for your help.
So I tried the possible solution that m80 came up (but subsequently rejected as it was thought it would cause other issues) in order to see what the downside would be. I snipped the wires coming from pads 3 & 4 on the door pillar, then I connected together the stubs coming from the pads. Next I spliced together the wires coming from the door pins that contact the pads when the door closes ( just stripped the insulation a little without cutting the wires) I connected 2 to 3 and 4 to 5. This then gives a connection from 2 to 5 when the door is closed.
This fixed the issue with the rear central locking, pressing the key locks all the doors. I no longer get the ‘door open’ alert when driving either ; so two very annoying issues resolved!
Unfortunately the side effect of this ‘fix’ is that the door will not open when either the dashboard switch or the B pillar switch is pressed. Pressing the unlock button on the door or the outer door handle works fine. So the only downside really is that you can’t open the door from the drivers seat - something I never, or very rarely do anyway - so I’m very happy with this fix and definitely won’t be forking out £265 for a replacement door mechanism.
This fix worked for me on 2007 model, no electric doors so nothing lost. I was working on UK driver side so pins were 1-5 from bottom. Thanks for all the help. I’m happy I didn’t need a new door lock which in Ireland was going to cost 460€ ex vat !!!
Is voltage a cause of this?

Ok, so sensors have arrived. However our van is an intermittent use vehicle. It will sit for a couple of weeks and then get a flurry of use and then back to sitting on the drive again.
Now the battery has always been lazy, it always starts the van but struggles. If I leave it for weeks I sometimes have to pop a jump start on it. I always meant to change it, just didnt want to pay out for the battery.
However, the doors had reached a point where they had been an absolute pain. Constant hassle, but the van has done some really long drives over the last couple of weeks. At least 5 hours each trip. And low and behold, now not a blip from the doors, nothing. Van starts on the button.
Could it be that the threshold voltage between a digital low and digital high was close enough with the old battery to cause these issues, especially with a slightly high resistance sensor? I know the alternator should keep the voltage at a set value once its running. But struggling to understand how a fault that was so bad has now completely vanished?

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