W124 250TD clutch problems

[Simon21]

Apologies - it's not a rare model, just a typo ..

The car will no longer go into gear when the engine is turning. This fault came quite quickly over about 40 miles (two return trips to work), but the clutch was still biting very early/low when released.

I suspect the actuating mechanism - is the slave external or internal? Where is the reservoir for the clutch hydraulics? Sorry to sound so dim - my Haynes has gone walkabout.

I'd like to fault find before taking it to my garage man if possible. He's great if I tell him where the problem is (and supply the parts) but can be slow if you just turn up ans say "it's broken"!

VMTIA

 

[panason1c]

Not sure about your specific model, but the fluid reservoir for the clutch is usually shared with the brake master cylinder reservoir.

It sounds like either the clutch slave cylinder or clutch master cylinder has leaked and introduced air into the system, which means renewal of either item.

 

[BlackC55]

I expect the slave or master cylinder is faulty. The resevoir is the brake fluid one. Don't discount the clutch itself though.

 

[Sp!ke]

I have a perfectly usable W124 clutch in my garage if you need it. I replaced it in error with the same symtoms as you after changing both master and slave cylinders.

I'd start with the slave cylinder as that is closest to the exhaust, suffers more from temperature changes and generally is first to fail, not to mention a darn sight easier to replace than the master.

My issue turned out to be a slightly perished rubber hose between the brake/clutch reservoir and master cylinder which was drawing in air.

It took me bloody ages to trace it having first changed both master and slave as well as the whole clutch itself. (not fun outside on the drive lying in a puddle in mid winter)

 

[Simon21]

I'm on the job now. The master cylinder is a total **** to access as it's behind the pedals. Luckily when I got to the slave it was obvious that it's the slave that is leaking.

My next problem is releasing the hose nut on the slave. Their is a 7" flexi connecting the slave to the hydraulics, and it's seized onto the slave. The nit is now a bit rounded after my fight with it.

It's going to be far better to put on a new flexi while I am on the job, but I need a part number ... Can anyone access the appropriate drawing?

 

[Dieselman]

If the VIN starts WDB124104 the p/n are either 124295 01 13 or 124295 06 13, but appear to be solid pipes.

There is a slave cylinder repair kit, p/n 0002900611

What's the VIN number?

Just get some good grips onto the back nut and maybe a bit of heat onto the cylinder body.

 

[Simon21]

VIN is 1241852F070181

The slave is an OE MB part and seems to be numbered 2012900311.

 

[Dieselman]

VIN is 124852*******

The slave is an OE MB part and seems to be numbered 2012900311.

Year? Upto or post '89.

 

[Dieselman]

Post '89
I make the pipe p/n A1262950113

Cylinder p/n A2022900011

pre '89

pipe is p/n A1262950113

cylinder p/n A2012900311

 

[Simon21]

It's an '88.

 

[Dieselman]

Slave repair kit is A0002900611

 

[Simon21]

I have a slave ready to fit that I bought from GSF - just need to be able to hook it up the the hydraulics.

Sounds like a trip to MB in Reading in the morning.

 

[Dieselman]

Just get some decent grips on it, you will never need to undo it ever again so just get it off and back on.
Once in a position with space you can clean the nut up with a file.

 

[Simon21]

One annoying problem after another ..

I dug out my Workmate and clamped the slave. The nut shifted in the end.

I put the hose onto the new cylinder and then started to attach the flexi to the fixed end of the car, but managed to cross-thread it. Now I can't do up the nut without it cross-threading every time. There's no room to work at all and to cap it all the rain drops are falling out of a drain onto my head!

 

[Dieselman]

Try making the thread good with a hacksaw blade or file, then be very careful when starting the thread. Wind it backwards until it clicks into the first notch.