W124 300D Severe judder

[bennycb]

OK, thanks for the reinforcing the point!

I have talked to the mechanic and he wants to change one engine mount first although i said just change them both...he will change two if i insist but doesn´t understand why i don´t change one first and see what happens and can always change the other later.

In any case he wants about 2 hours labour for both and 60-70quid for each mount MB spec. When you guys say use good mounts do you mean not to use ones like these which would save me 100 on the parts...have a mate coming out in two weeks so can get "free" shipping on them if they will be ok

Ocap Mercedes-Benz | Euro Car Parts UK?s No.1 Car Parts Retailer

 

[grober]

Get LEMFORDER or MB parts and do both.


BOGE

2-33-000011-50
2-33-000011-50H
87-855-A

LEMFÖRDER

10862

manufacturer compare numbers

MERCEDES-BENZ

124 240 19 17
201 240 19 17
201 240 20 17
201 240 29 17
201 240 43 17
201 240 52 17

https://webcat-services.zf.com/index.asp?LKZ=D&PKW=1&SPR=4&EINSPNR=32,14,1632,1614

 

[horatio]

I bought cheap ones from GSF and they only lasted a few months. I replaced them with Febi mounts which have been fine for a few years now.

Would definitely avoid those ocap parts.

 

[bennycb]

Solved...sort of

New genuine engine mounts fitted and car is much better to drive. I wouldn´t say perfect and still susceptible to quick lifting off of the accelerator but it´s OK, so thanks for the recommendations on here

I Would say I´m happy but now what was one tie rod end clonking slightly (and an MOT pass no advisories 4 weeks ago), according to the garage is now all 5 ball joints in the steering system being warn and needing replacing. And a slightly weeping diesel pump somewhere near the left engine mount.

He says the tie rods arent dangerous (and the tie rods can´t just break) and for me the car has less play than my old W124s did on uneven camber, although it isnt perfect. So i´m quite happy to drive it with play if it really can´t just break but this possibility worries me. What does everyone think?

Sad to say either way it´s going to head to the scrapyard because life is too short for constant problems and i´ve now paid more than it´s worth just to get this far and am just not prepared to spend another 600GBP on oil change, tyres, steering and diesel pump as i could get another car for that! The question is can i get a few more months out of it and try and get some money back or do the clonks when steering at low speed from the tie rod joints mean it is too dangerous and needs to be scrapped now, despite 2 mechanics and MOT testers thinking otherwise. I just really don´t trust any one of them here!

 

[bennycb]

An update

Hi all,

In the end I decided to keep this car because turned out it was only one tie rod that was bad and a loose wheel bearing and the leaking diesl was from a return pipe, not a pump so all clonk and groan free and not leaking anything!

After all that (and an oil/filter change) the engine idles much sweeter and smoother the car is quieter and it doesn´t wander on the motorway any more! However I still have the judder (though less than original and with no noises), and small vibrations in the car at 1200-1500rpm and when idling pointing up hill.

I´ve replaced the two front engine mounts, two prop couplings, prop shaft bearing and diff mounts. Each one has improved the car slightly so it seems that just everything had deteriorated! Can anyone tell me what is left to replace mounts wise other than the rear engine mount?

When i go on ECP it syas the rear engine mount and gearbox mount have the same part number (this car is manual). Is it true that there is just the rear engine mount to replace or are there other gearbox mounts too and if so where can i get them from?

Many thanks as always.

 

[carat 3.6]

There are only 2 engine mounts, and 1 gearbox mount at the rear of the gearbox. So hopefully that will cure the vibrations when pointing uphill.

 

[julianps]

Deleted by poster.