w124 window regulator

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Does anyone have any hints/tips/advice on how to fit it?

will i need a rivit gun?

will the existing one rivited in? (assuming its original)
 
Hi

this has now arrived and 1st impressions look good. Havnt fitted it yet though.

This appears to have threaded bolts attached for it to be bolted on.
 
Sounds good, the rivetting bit was the hardest part for me last time.

I've been waiting for your feedback on this before sorting out my one so come on, get cracking and fit it and let us know will you. ;)
 
you shouldn't need a rivet gun on the estate

It's held in place by (I think because it's a while since I did one) three bolts on the motor and two bolts on the horizontal guide rail.

Get the door card off, lower the window and unbolt stuff - when you can lift the old regulator out (the glass stays in place) you've undone enough bolts.

Putting it back together is fiddly and is a lot easier if there are two of you
 
Sounds good, the rivetting bit was the hardest part for me last time.

I've been waiting for your feedback on this before sorting out my one so come on, get cracking and fit it and let us know will you. ;)

hopefully it wont need revitting - not sure if the old one is rivitted on or not.

I may try and fit it this weekend. I'd do it one evening but the problem is i use the car each day and if its a c0ck up i'll end up driving in the winter without any window, which wouldnt be nice :mad: ;)

whenever i do it, i'll do a how to.
 
you shouldn't need a rivet gun on the estate

It's held in place by (I think because it's a while since I did one) three bolts on the motor and two bolts on the horizontal guide rail.

Get the door card off, lower the window and unbolt stuff - when you can lift the old regulator out (the glass stays in place) you've undone enough bolts.

Putting it back together is fiddly and is a lot easier if there are two of you
Andy is right. No rivets on a saloon or estate however there are on the Coupe.
 
Mrs SilverSaloon has given me permission to fit the regualtor this saturday!
 
I've done this job a few times on various W124s , it is a common problem on the driver's door , which gets the most use . It is always the last two or three teeth against which the motor stalls as the window becomes fully closed . I've only experienced this on W124's - other models don't seem to suffer !

Top tip : wear latex gloves to stop your hands getting covered in grease and transferring same to door cards and rest of interior !

The job is not difficult and will probably take you an hour or two if it is the first time you have done one .

The first time it happened to me , I bought a new one from MB Edinburgh - cost was £60 odds from memory . Subsequently , I got secondhand ones from breakers - one cost me a tenner , the other £15 - at least you can see what you're buying .
 
OK, i've fitted this - all went well and i took some photos.

a how-to will be posted tommorow after i've written it up. :)

Thanks

Derek
 
Sounds promising :)

I take it the part you ordered was of good quality and fitted well?

Will
 
Sounds promising :)

I take it the part you ordered was of good quality and fitted well?

Will


Hi

yeah - seems good quality and fitted perfectly. Holes/bolts appeared tight to begin with but in the end it was a matter of clipping them in in a certain order (i'll detail it in the how to). Only iffy bit of the part was the coil/spring bit that seemed to expand out when tightend. not sure how important this is or will be once its used a lot. Seems fine so far (minimal use) and shows how slow the passegener side has become. I'd recommend the part so far - cant see any other non-MB part being any better. I am sure the genuine MB part is better/last longer but at £32 this is a bargain, even if it only lasts a couple of years.

derek
 
Hi all, an interesting thread.

I myself have replaced this part twice on my drivers window. The saloon and estate both are fitted using bolts, it's just the coupe that has rivets (see IanBWalker's post earlier on this thread). The only thing to watch out for is to make sure you have got the glass back into the guide channel in the front of the door (this got me confused for ages until i realised lol). Also note that the door card has some sort of 2 stage fitment thing going on. I made a right hash of re-fitting my door card until i realised that you had to slide certain clips in before others.

1 other thing to add:

the first reply on this post (from Will) mentions clicking when the window is at it's lowest position and needs some assistance to get going. I believe that this is a different problem than the snapped teeth. this is caused by lack of power in the motor and excess resistance built up in the mechanism due to dirt and old solidified grease etc. Will - try taking the whole thing out and cleaning it all. Ultimately the motor is on it's way out but removing the resistance may help it last a bit longer. I had this similar problem recently and thought i had fixed the fault by giving it a good clean but then it failed to lift again. It's fine if you don't put it all the way down. Make sure you leave about an inch of the window showing over the seal.

Will - the clicking you can hear is very quiet yes? this is the motor engaging. When the window fails to close properly for the last inch it makes a right racket, a metal on metal noise.

Luke.
 
I changed the regulator on the W124 coupe today.

I bought the regulator from Eurocarparts for £90 and the part was a genuine Mercedes item still with the Mercedes Sticker on the packaging and a Mercedes part number.

This part looked like it was an improved version over the original part as the section where the teeth were (that always breaks) was no longer made from pressed steel but was a much thicker forged item in hardened (Black) steel. It certainly looked to be a superior part than the one it replaced.

This time around, I didn't muck around with rivets but used the M6 button cap bolts on the inside of the door skin with nylock nuts outside, then simply trimmed down any excess thread with the angle grinder. This was much easier than trying to source the giant rivet gun required for the huge factory rivets.

This time the job took less than an hour, partly because it was -3 C and I was eager to get it done before my fingers froze.
 

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Thanks SilverSaloon!

Hi

yeah - seems good quality and fitted perfectly. Holes/bolts appeared tight to begin with but in the end it was a matter of clipping them in in a certain order (i'll detail it in the how to). Only iffy bit of the part was the coil/spring bit that seemed to expand out when tightend. not sure how important this is or will be once its used a lot. Seems fine so far (minimal use) and shows how slow the passegener side has become. I'd recommend the part so far - cant see any other non-MB part being any better. I am sure the genuine MB part is better/last longer but at £32 this is a bargain, even if it only lasts a couple of years.

derek

Thanks to you Silversaloon, I bought this from the same ebay seller, and got mine within 4 days via DHL! Very good and fast deliver for £35!

The part looks ok and feels well put together and of decent quality. Even if lasts 2-3 years, I don't mind replacing it again.

I have just replaced this on my W124 E320 Saloon.

And the best bits are that I also gained knowledge, how to, and in the process injured my knuckles and fingers :D .But well worth it!!

Must admit some clips flew off but by no means broken.

So now my passenger window works like a charm and closes/opens properly.
 
I was linking to this thread for someone and thought i'd give a little update after almost 2 Years....

Getting onto 2 years after i fitted this cheap tiwain part, but its still working fine. Well worth buying from this eBay seller, who appears to still be selling them.
 
OK, 4 years later.

The window regulator teeth have finally broken in the same way as before.

not bad for 4 years of average use (i pull the window down atleast 4 times per day every day - going in/out of multistory carpark at work). So not bad.

I'm now off to see what my money gets me as a replacement this time.
 
I normaly weld up the damaged regulator teeth and cut some new ones with a hacksaw, never had a problem yet.:thumb:
 
I normaly weld up the damaged regulator teeth and cut some new ones with a hacksaw, never had a problem yet.:thumb:

maybe i will try this. is it possible with the regulator still inside the car if you are careful????
 
new regular fitted from a Polish seller this time (as it was cheapest). approx £40 delivered.

seems good so far...
 

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