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W202 Smart key not turning in ignition.

Nomatik

Member
Joined
Dec 29, 2011
Messages
38
Car
99 C230K
Hello,

So the other day I unlocked my doors by remote smart key as per usual, and I inserted the key into the ignition and I noticed that I didn't hear the usual zipping sound. I tried to turn the key and it would not move. Tried the spare key and still no go. Shortly afterwards I noticed that I was unable to lock the doors by remote as well. The doors will lock by blade key but not with remote. I should also point out that the steering does not unlock when the key is inserted.

anyone experience this?
 
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As the spare key has the same symptoms as your other key then I'm afraid it does sound like a faulty EIS Switch, but what throws me is your locking has packed up at the same time.
Are you sure your spare key worked correctly? when was the last time you used it?
Does the remote locking work correctly on the spare key?
 
The spare key gets moderate usage from time to time, and it's worked great every time it's been used on starting the car or remote locking.

It's my understanding that when a key is present in the EIS the remote functions are disengaged. Also, according to the bentley publishers service manual the EIS is part of the central locking system. I guess the assumption should be made that EIS is causing the remote locking malfunction.

I've gone ahead and taken apart the EIS and it certainly looks OK. I noticed a small tab in the key barrel that prevents the key from being turned. Lifting this tab manually does enable you to turn the key through all positions but it does not start the motor. I'm assuming this tab is lifted automatically when systems are normal.

Another variable here is that the electronic steering lock does not disengage when the key is inserted. Is it at all possible that a faulty ESL motor is preventing the key from being turned and subsequently not authorizing the start of the vehicle through DAS?
 
I going to say about ESL on my last post, to be completely honest with you I think you have gone as far as you can without getting it plugged into STAR diagnostic, my understanding of the EIS and the ESL is that they are coded to the key when replaced, and as the coding on these items is once only and due to their expense, it is important to get it diagnosed accurately, so as not to buy the wrong item.
 
I know it’s a long shot but it cant be ignored as a possibility, the coil, number 11 in picture, if it were broken, then the key won’t work properly, is your key type A or type B in picture?

I forget now but wasn’t there something about leaving the key in the ignition for an hour and this would reprogram the remote or perhaps that’s just a tall tail?

Dec

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I know it’s a long shot but it cant be ignored as a possibility, the coil, number 11 in picture, if it were broken, then the key won’t work properly, is your key type A or type B in picture?

I forget now but wasn’t there something about leaving the key in the ignition for an hour and this would reprogram the remote or perhaps that’s just a tall tail?

Dec

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The key is Type B.

The owners manual mentions something about synchronizing remote control and refers to it in the index. I look in the index and it's not there. :doh:

The owners manual also mentions that steering is unlocked in position 1. If I recall correctly the zipping noise(steering unocking) happens when the you put the key into the ignition at position 0. Can someone please confirm this...

Also, I have been noticing that my ignition switch seems to make a sound when the key is taken out. It sort of sounds like a coil of wire unspooling. It seems to vary in volume/intensity depending on how quickly you take out the key. I don't remember if it used to make that sound before I had this problem. It may be because the ignition switch was buried behind the dash and I could not hear it. Can someone please take a listen to what happens when the key is taken out of the ignition. Taking it out quickly seems to intesify the sound.
If your ignition switches are silent when taking out the key this may be a clue for me.
 
Below is how the ignition should sound, good sound example is at I minute and 24 seconds.
When the key "zips" the steering wheel is unlocked.

Is your car alarm working ok? Before this fault happened, when you unlocked the car the hazards should have flashed 1 time,
when you locked the car the hazards should have flashed 3 times, was this the case.

The alarm knows when a key is put in the ignition so the alarm is involved with the ignition.

It’s extremely common for the alarms on this model… and others… to fail and cause all sorts of problems, the failure occurs when the car is 8 to 10 years old, if you think the alarm is the original factory alarm fitted to the car then I would unplug it to see if it makes any difference.
Another long shot but worth a try.

Dec

Edit… Synchronizing Remote Control, see Page 109 here… http://www.mbusa.com/vcm/MB/DigitalAssets/pdfmb/ownersmanual/2000_cclass.pdf

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Are you sure the Car battery is not low I had a similar issue when car had battery drain issue opened car from remote and put key in ignition wouldnt rotate then wouldnt do anything until battery was charged?? I also tried my spare as I thought key was faulty? Had to open boot with blade and open doors manually to get bonnet open for access to battery??
 
Still not cured. :(

The battery is topped up, it's been sitting on a charger.

My C230 doesn't have the alarm option. When I entered the vehicle the lights flashed to to remotely unlock the doors. Put the key in and not able to turn. Take the key out and try to lock the doors remotely--No GO.

I may have a couple possible solutions--

I was able to find a c230K at a scrap yard with identical EIS,ECU,ESL part numbers, I pulled those parts out. Are there any other components that are coded alongside these 3 parts?

I should be able to go the dealer to make me a new key once I have all 3 of those components installed. Anyone foresee any problems with this approach?

The other solution would be to send the EIS(leading culprit as of now) to these guys
Mercedes EIS EZS Key Repair « London Code

anyone have experience with them?
 
Hi,
Have you had a proper STAR diagnostics done on it? I would not consider replacing anything, especially swapping out all those coded components until you are sure you know where the fault is
By the way they all had an alarm from the factory at this age, yours probably just has a faulty siren.
For you to get a key for the donor ECU and kit you will need to show ownership of the donor car in your name.
 
Just brainstorming but could the gearstick lockout be part of issue? as when you switch off and forget to move from Drive you cant turn key to remove? Can this happen if lockout is knackered

But agree with Andy Star; diagnostic before buying any parts!!
 
It's unlikely the gear shifter would be causing this problem. When the key is put into the ignition the ESL is supposed to unlock and right after the key can be turned. Not happening in my car :( If the problem was shifter related the ESL would at least unlock.


I guess I did have an alarm but the siren was ripped off or broken off?? I don't have the tow away hook button though?? Anyway, the connector for the siren was just dangling there. Are there any control boxes for the alarm that should be unplugged?

I'm trying to avoid towing the car to the dealer to do a star diagnostic. The price of the tow(both ways probably) and the diagnostic will be quite steep. I'm considering buying one of those Dell laptops with the C4 multiplexer off ebay and doing the diagnostic myself. at around $1100 it seems like a good investment.

Thanks for the suggestions everyone. I will update this thread when I have news.
 
Example… Alarm / Siren Issues : Goes off for no reason/Kills Battery FIX DIY.. - MBWorld.org Forums

The siren is the alarm brain/ECU, the link above illustrates what can/will happen to these alarms when the are about 8 to 10 years old, the back up batteries inside the siren leak and destroy the PCB resulting in all kinds of problems, as your alarm siren is now disconnected then it is no longer a suspect.

To my knowledge there is nothing else relating to the alarm that can be disconnected, the remainder of the alarm system consists of whatever triggers you have such as bonnet / door /boot triggers switches and motion sensors.

It’s the least of your worries at the moment but the siren can be replaced (about £90?)and simply plugged into the original 3 pin plug, you could get a plug in a scrap yard if yours is missing.

If the coil, located at one end of the key PCB inside the key is broken/detached then the key won’t turn, worth examining it closely with a magnifying glass.
Note that the key buttons and batteries are for the purpose of locking/unlocking the car and arm/disarming the alarm, the coil in the key is what allows the car to be started, batteries and buttons aren’t needed for that.

Another long shot that you cant ignore.

Dec

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I vaugely remember reading somewhere (and I cannot find it again) that someone else had this issue, and they got going again by cleaning the IR receiver inside the ESL with a cotton bud and meths. Sounds a bit crazy but may be worth a look.
 
Just thought I would update everyone...I got the car on a star tool and it is reporting a fault in the EIS. Now to fix it without using the dealer.
 
Pretty confident, I have 2 keys and both were working without any problems for 3 years. Now they have both stopped.

Also, I have a spare ECU, ESL, and EIS from a wrecker, and plugging in those 3 components clears the EIS fault. The only problem is I have no key for those wrecker components.

I should also point our that I did the star diagnosis myself.
 
Update...

I bought a complete set of Key,ECU,ESL,EIS, installed and the car is as good as new.

Still trying to fix my original EIS. Will update if there is any news.
 

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