W210 320cdi Not starting AGAIN

[coneybiller]

Well my non starting issue is now back. I had replaced all of the o-rings on the plastic fuel pipes. Then the issue came back, ended up replacing the fuel pipes. It started much better but only just fired before the end of the first cranking cycle (1 key turn and let go), since replacing them.
Problem has got worse and now just jumped into it to come to work tonight, and nadda. Turns and turns and turns, but no joy. Cant see any signs of air in the fuel pipes, and there is def fuel there (from what I can see).

The injector leak off pipe is now leaking, since I've changed the seals on it. I can see the pipes are wet between cylinders No 3 and 5.

Now I know your going to say "get it connected to STAR", but wondered what I can possibly expect to find from a diagnostic session? Will a duff injector cause poor starting, crank sensor etc?

It doesnt help that my thermostat is stuck fully open, so even on my 150mile round trip to work, it never reaches 80 Degrees. I did put some cardboard over the grill before leaving for work 1 night last week (when particularly cold), which helped it to reach 80 degrees. Then had a non start issue when i stopped for a drink near work. cleared itself after 2 mins or so. Now its dead, sat on the drive. Had to drive my Mrs 1.4 pug 206 to work... its now developed a misfire... Great...

 

[coneybiller]

Can anyone recommend a mobile tech service to come round and read the codes? Its sat on my drive useless at the min.

 

[ExMercTech]

If the leak off pipe is leaking Diesel
When off and standing it could be letting in air.
Get that sorted if it doesn't start then get the codes read.

 

[coneybiller]

Does the leak-off not go directly back to the tank then? I've not paid close enough attention to see if it recirc's back into the feed side.
If it does recirculate then that sounds very plausible. My drive way is at an angle and the car is currently parked uphill which could explain why it's harder to start when leaving for work, then starts OK when leaving work after 9hrs.

 

[a111r]

No, the return is not 'looped', straight back to the tank via the fuel cooler (in front of the NSR arch)

 

[Dunhamkid]

Park the car facing downhill and see if it starts better. If it starts better, you are getting air in the system.

 

[coneybiller]

I would park it facing down hill, however it won't start at all at the mo! Not had chance to look at it today though so will have to have a look tomorrow if I get chance! Think I will need to put the battery on trickle charge seeing as it's going to take a lot of cranking!

 

[Eric Alex]

Well my non starting issue is now back. I had replaced all of the o-rings on the plastic fuel pipes. Then the issue came back, ended up replacing the fuel pipes. It started much better but only just fired before the end of the first cranking cycle (1 key turn and let go), since replacing them.

Problem has got worse and now just jumped into it to come to work tonight, and nadda. Turns and turns and turns, but no joy. Cant see any signs of air in the fuel pipes, and there is def fuel there (from what I can see).



The injector leak off pipe is now leaking, since I've changed the seals on it. I can see the pipes are wet between cylinders No 3 and 5.



Now I know your going to say "get it connected to STAR", but wondered what I can possibly expect to find from a diagnostic session? Will a duff injector cause poor starting, crank sensor etc?



It doesnt help that my thermostat is stuck fully open, so even on my 150mile round trip to work, it never reaches 80 Degrees. I did put some cardboard over the grill before leaving for work 1 night last week (when particularly cold), which helped it to reach 80 degrees. Then had a non start issue when i stopped for a drink near work. cleared itself after 2 mins or so. Now its dead, sat on the drive. Had to drive my Mrs 1.4 pug 206 to work... its now developed a misfire... Great...

Any small diesel leaks however penny they may look will give you problems. Had the same and had to fix


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[A1EK]

I had an issue with my W210 years ago, same symptoms of cranking and cranking and eventually it would start, it turned out to be dirty contacts in the fuel pump relay in the boot.
Turn the key on but do not start engine, then go the rear and listen for the fule pump to see if its buzzing quietly. If not lift the boot mat, the relay is at the back, use a small flat head screwdriver to remove black cover, then use a piece of thin card to slide between contact plates to clean them. You can also use a piece of wire across the relevant pins to check and see if the fuel pump is buzzing when you turn the key on.

 

[a111r]

OP's CDI doesn't have an electric pump at the tank.

 

[coneybiller]

Well I fitted a new crank sensor yesterday (bought 1 a while ago to stop this issue happening). Wasn't as bad of a job as I thought it was going to be, you definitely need an E10 inverted torx socket as and 8mm socket just wouldn't quite bite enough on the bolt. Sensor came out OK with some wriggling and faffing. Managed to do it from the top without removing anything else (apart from the engine cover which now lives in my shed).

Only problem is.... No difference. So I can rule that out.

Looking at where the leak off pipe runs, I can't see how that would cause an issue on starting. It's purely there to catch the unused fuel from the injector and divert it back to the tank. It should (in my eyes) have no bearing on the operation of the engine. You can take the pipe off to carry out a leak off test and it will run just fine.

Talking of leak off, that brings me round to injectors. I'm going to whip the pipes off the injectors later this afternoon and perform a "dirty" leak off test but cranking only.
From my understanding, if it's howling fuel out of the top of the injector from just cranking, then that injector is FUBAR. With that happening, it causes the rail pressure to drop enough to stop the other injectors atomising enough to fire? Is that right?

 

[Erfan]

Does yours have a shut off valve that could be leaking?

 

[coneybiller]

Shutoff valve as in? EGR valve? Inlet port shutoff valve? Anti shudder valve (throttle butterfly type thing, not sure it has this?)
Not quite sure what one your talking about?

When it was actually firing, it would turn and turn then slowly fire over as if it wasn't getting enough fuel. Once running, no issues apart from smoke on acceleration. No power loss or cutting out.

Didn't get chance to look at it yesterday, so will have a gander later today (hopefully).

Short of getting it recovered I can only look at the mechanical side of it as no one nearby with a star machine

 

[beeza]

Had a similar problem with my ML280CDI. It would crank, fire and then stall immediately. Turned out to be a broken wire off the exhaust pressure sensor. It is right next to the turbo fwd looking aft on the RHS of the turbo, the plug is right on top.

 

[coneybiller]

Your engine will be the V6 where as mine is the old straight 6. Def no sensors on the turbo that I could see anyways! This won't fire at all unfortunately.

 

[Erfan]

I meant fuel shut off valve

 

[coneybiller]

Ahh I missed 1 lol. Is that on the rail by any chance? Thought 1 was a pressure sensor and the other a regulator?

 

[coneybiller]

Right... well I took the injector leak-off pipe off to see if any of the injectors are overly leaking off...

BE21F603-390B-4841-875A-B7A77D71D882.mp4 Video by Speedy0o | Photobucket

As you can see No2 is excessively leaking off! Now I Know I'm going to have to replace this injector, question is does this need coding?

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[bob6600]

Nope, OM613 injectors do not need coding.

The way to tell is if it has a number circled, it needs coding..

Also, I found the original leak off pipes to be crap, the plastic T pieces also not very good. I replaced mine with a much better quality aftermarket set from ebay, cheaper than MB too.

 

[coneybiller]

I had read about coding injectors with the circled numbers 1 - 4. Looked at mine and got confused. So that's good news indeed!

I put a screwdriver on the injectors while it was running, to listen to the injectors and No2 sounded worse than the rest (tapping noises sounded a lot more dull compared to the rest), but number 1 sounded the same. Should I replace this 1 also or am I being OTT?

Now where is the best place to buy a new injector? Preferably as cheap as poss without compromising on quality!

I had seen the leak-off pipes with the brass t-piece's on eBay. Think I'd better invest!