Only cracked interiors and dry rotted rubber parts from hot Texas sun?
W210 rust issues solvable?
- Thread starter Kokipopi69
- Start date
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Only cracked interiors and dry rotted rubber parts from hot Texas sun?
Does not really affect the W210, especially if you own a house with a garage. Most homes have 2 car garages.
I forgot to mention if cars are left outside for long time they'll eventually have cracked interiors.
Keep the car inside away from sun is much better
W210 and later cars are much less susceptible to this than the W124/W126 era cars or earlier. In any case. I've redone interiors on W126 and earlier cars. It's infinitely easier than rust repair.
If you really want to get to know rust , go back a further generation and try a W110/111 . My dad’s one , bought new in 1964 was rusty everywhere when written off in 1970 ; the W115 replacement was nowhere near as bad when it was written off in 1978 .
I don't know how about a W111 is, although there's a really rusty W111 220SE coupe up for sale for $1800 which is oh so tempting.
This is a 280CE that I gave up on in 2011. It ran like a scalded cat but the rust never ended. I kept the engine for my 72 280CE which is also a manual car.
ChipChop
MB Enthusiast
My first car (not including a mk 1 Fiat Panda) was a 1976 BMW 1502 (E10). Just under 20 years old when i got it and it was rusty everywhere.
Front to back total rust, tried to fix it but gave up just after the A post after fitting a new front panel, front wing fixing bands, Jaymic A post repair panels, inner & outer sills and front wings. Called it a day because of the chassis rail rot, lack of inner rear wheel arches, outer rear wheelarches, boot floor, lower rear wing sections and rear valence.
In comparison the W210 does not really rust it just ages badly.
Front to back total rust, tried to fix it but gave up just after the A post after fitting a new front panel, front wing fixing bands, Jaymic A post repair panels, inner & outer sills and front wings. Called it a day because of the chassis rail rot, lack of inner rear wheel arches, outer rear wheelarches, boot floor, lower rear wing sections and rear valence.
In comparison the W210 does not really rust it just ages badly.
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My W111 220S (1963) looked outwardly OK when I got it , and there was evidence of a lot of welding having been done in the boot , with much of the floor and inner wheel arches a quiltwork of patches welded together ; the vendor telling me he reckoned he'd done 90% of the work ! When I got into it , the springs for the bonnet hinges were tearing themselves out of the inner wings , which were double skinned ; the under skins were almost non existent ; the floors were going under the carpets ( much like your CE , above once I'd poked away the rotten metal ) the sills were going at both ends , both sides , underneath , although painted with underseal , several of the chassis crossmembers were rotting out and again I could poke a screwdriver into them . Given enough time and patience , I could probably have welded most of these parts up , but the thing that killed it for me was when I pressed the brake pedal , something didn't feel right , and on investigating , I found the firewall was 'soft' and moving with the pedals , then I found just under the windscreen , although not appearing rusty to look at , you could press with your finger and feel it flex . Bits of floor , inner wings , even the ends of the sills I could have welded , but not that firewall , with so much of it being rotten .
This was about 10 years ago , when these cars were worth less than they are now , I think I paid £700 for it , but I managed to swap it for an early W126 280SE that a pal wanted rid of , and he wanted the Fintail for parts as he knew someone needing the lights , bumpers etc and reckoned he could make the difference up by breaking it and selling other parts .
These days , Fintails are worth a bit more and cars that were uneconomical to restore 10 years ago might not be now . I think , though that they were the real low point for rusting with MB ; Pontons never rusted as badly , and the later cars seemed better as well . However , now that all these cars are 40 , 50 , 60 years old , it comes down more to how/where they've been stored rather than how well/badly they were made .
This was about 10 years ago , when these cars were worth less than they are now , I think I paid £700 for it , but I managed to swap it for an early W126 280SE that a pal wanted rid of , and he wanted the Fintail for parts as he knew someone needing the lights , bumpers etc and reckoned he could make the difference up by breaking it and selling other parts .
These days , Fintails are worth a bit more and cars that were uneconomical to restore 10 years ago might not be now . I think , though that they were the real low point for rusting with MB ; Pontons never rusted as badly , and the later cars seemed better as well . However , now that all these cars are 40 , 50 , 60 years old , it comes down more to how/where they've been stored rather than how well/badly they were made .
wongl
MB Enthusiast
My first brand new car, an Alfa sub, purchased new from the dealer in Manchester in 1986 rusted away after 8 years. The dealership charged me circa £250 to rustproof the car before delivery to me. Interestingly, the rust on the Alfa sub started from the holes drilled by the rust proofing company.
Initially, I tried repairing the rust forming around these holes, but as mentioned earlier, the rust formed faster than i could deal with.
The next car I had a rust problem with is the W210 - this went into the MB Bodyshop 3 times for severe rust repairs - but alas the rust would return soon after said repairs. On the third and final time I was told by MB this would be the final 'goodwill' repair they will undertake.
In 2017 we traded the W210 in for an approved used C300h and received a princely sum of £750 trade-in value. Mechanically the W210 was solid and running fine, but looks like a rust bucket!
Initially, I tried repairing the rust forming around these holes, but as mentioned earlier, the rust formed faster than i could deal with.
The next car I had a rust problem with is the W210 - this went into the MB Bodyshop 3 times for severe rust repairs - but alas the rust would return soon after said repairs. On the third and final time I was told by MB this would be the final 'goodwill' repair they will undertake.
In 2017 we traded the W210 in for an approved used C300h and received a princely sum of £750 trade-in value. Mechanically the W210 was solid and running fine, but looks like a rust bucket!
ChrisEdu
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Sep 5, 2005
- Messages
- 8,326
- Location
- By the southern sea
- Car
- E320CDi Estate - gone E320CDi Saloon - written off CLS 350CDi Coupé
The W210 really is a blot in the MB copybook. Mine eventually looked like a collection of holes held together by bits of metal! 
DWarren
New Member
Or import one from NZ or Aus, RHD and no rust problems down here
On the other side of your situation I’m selling my 98 E class and most enquiries are asking about rust around the arches which seems to be common. It’s a pity as mine is mechanically sound with 67000 on the clock.
Wotchmaker
Member
Friend has E430 and has been sorted and painted several times. Always comes back
