w211 brakes change

[OneForTheRoad]

hello , ive read a few threads about the SBC system and diy brakes change on the e class. is it 100 % ok to simply lock the car and get on with the job and be safe .

any help would be great as my brakes need changed and id normally just do my own .

cheers .

 

[jazzyglobe]

I have done it this way before. Recently changed discs and pads and disconnected the batteries. Felt much more comfortable and safer that way.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

so you can just d/c both batteries ? does everything return to normal then once you're all done and put both batteries back - no error codes etc .

 

[AMGeed]

This is a great step by step guide

W211 disk and pad change guide - Mercedes-Benz Owners' Forums

 

[OneForTheRoad]

thanks lads , this could save me a few ££££ , its something ive always done on any new car , just this SBC has me scared .

 

[jazzyglobe]

The way I did it was this:

Unlock car
Open boot
Open bonnet
Remove cabin filter to get to SBC backup battery
Disconnect rear battery, just the negative one needed removing
Then go to front and disconnect negative on SBC battery


When reconnecting, connect the small battery first, then the large one. Make sure the key is out of the ignition when connecting/disconnecting battery

 

[OneForTheRoad]

is the cd/ sat nav unit coded ??

 

[AMGeed]

is the cd/ sat nav unit coded ??

No code for Comand.

If you do disconnect batteries you may need to reset the windows by opening fully on the switch and closing and holding for a couple of seconds. Do that for each window. Same with the sunroof if you have one. Any warning lights should go out after a short drive and turning the steering lock to lock.

 

[OneForTheRoad]

champion lads - much obliged - nearly 30 posts already - result .

 

[jazzyglobe]

Some hints which you may find useful:

-Removal of front caliper requires long hex key. Can't remember if 7mm or 8mm. I used this:

15PC METRIC 1/2" DRIVE HEX ALLEN ALEN ALLAN ALAN WRENCH KEY SOCKET BIT SET CASE | eBay

-When you remove the caliper, dont let it dangle by the brake hose. Use something to tie it up so the strain is not on the hose. Whilst you are there, check for cracks on the hose.

-When pushing the piston back into the caliper, I left the old pad in the caliper and used a G clamp to press this in so the caliper is pushed back. Then remove old pad. Check rubber cover in piston for splits.

-Clean up the cliper sliding bolts/pins properly and use a drop of blue loctite on the thread when putting back together.

-Make sure hub is fully clean before putting new disc on. Use wire brush attachment on drill to speed up process. Spray brake clean cleaned surface to remove any dust. Apply thin coat of copper grease on hub face where disc make contact - not the braking surface - so its easier to remove next time.

-Use decent branded pads and discs. I went for Jurid Discs and Brembo pads. Around £90 for the lot from GSF when they had the 35% promo on over bank Holiday. No squeaks and stops perfect now.

Take your time and clean everything well. Apply a drop of blue loctite to all thread when putting back together. Wire brush the threads first to remove any rubbish on them.

 

[jazzyglobe]

forgot to add, I don't like pushing old fluid back into the system, so I used :

Draper Universal ONE Handed Brake Bleeding KIT 37316 | eBay

Attach pipe to bleed valve, open valve then push piston in.