W211 E220 CDI injector issue

[Rupz911]

Hi guys,


was hoping to pick your brains regarding a matter.

I have just bought a E220CDI a couple of weeks ago and took it in for a service at a garage my friend works in (they do basic services and are mainly involved in tyres etc). Anyway during the service I was sent a picture of the engine block with the cover taken off. It was something i had never seen before. The block was covered in carbon deposits and not just a bit, a fair amount. I have shown a link to the image if anyone is interested.

I had a diagnosis done as it had an engine check light (although the car did not go in to limp mode) and was told the injector pressure is low. I dont want o remove the injector in case the carbon is keeping the car from losing compression. The car came from a doctor who had a full service history from Mercedes and independent Mercedes specialist. So, any ideas how to fix it and how many millions it will cost?

Thanks in advance

 

[mersum1es]

search 'black death'

 

[Rupz911]

search 'black death'

doesnt sound good at all

 

[mersum1es]

it's a copper seal leaking under the injector and cylinder pressure is leaking, sometimes nozzle holder cup is cracked with same result plus diesel leak. The repair job may be PITA if injector is really stuck, parts are cheap if injector is not broken...

 

[Rupz911]

it's a copper seal leaking under the injector and cylinder pressure is leaking, sometimes nozzle holder cup is cracked with same result plus diesel leak. The repair job may be PITA if injector is really stuck, parts are cheap if injector is not broken...

Thanks for your reply. I just had a little google and ive read its due to the copper seal but its not the only reason. I think i might have a look at some more new copper seals and see how it goes. From the looks of things, it looks like its the first one.

 

[BlackC55]

It is not expensive to fix at all. It is roughly £75 per injector to re-seal and cut a new seat. If the injectors need to be replaced they are around £150 each.

I expect trhe fault code is lack of fuel pressure. This can be caused by a number of things. Need a decent independent to work it out for you.

 

[Mickybo]

Thanks for your reply. I just had a little google and ive read its due to the copper seal but its not the only reason. I think i might have a look at some more new copper seals and see how it goes. From the looks of things, it looks like its the first one.

Make sure you replace the stretch bolts as well as the copper seals, very important

 

[Troon]

Stretch bolt torque is 7Nm plus two lots of 90°; but your first problem is getting rid of the black gunge. Unless you're happy with DIY, I'd take it to an indie.

Despite the name and the appearance, this isn't that serious a problem. I've had two seals fail, one of them twice (after a main dealer fixed it the first time).

 

[Twistedmind]

Wow. Good photo. Never seen one like that!

Sent from my iPhone using MBClub UK

 

[George Douglas]

I had the same on my 320 and it was a simple fix at my local indie . The injector was ok so not mega expensive . Great photo by the way

 

[bob6600]

Lots of good advice above. If you are not confident to do it yourself, get the engine nice and hot and remove as much of the deposits as possible ready for the indie, will save you some cost. Lots of different ideas on what works best, have a look on the forum for member's experiences

 

[Rupz911]

Thanks for your help guys. I think i will remove the carbon and see if i can have a go at taking out the injectors and reseating them if time permits me to.

 

[BlackC55]

Do you have the seat cutting tool. You will need it.

 

[Rupz911]

Hi Blackcat, i dont but ive just had a quick look and they are approximately £25 on ebay.

 

[bob6600]

Hi Blackcat

 

[BlackC55]

I have one you can borrow for a drink if you are local.

 

[Rupz911]

I have one you can borrow for a drink if you are local.

Apologies for the late reply. i can assure it wasnt due of the potential of parting with my beer money.

Thank you very much for your offer, i really am humbled. Unfortunately, i am a fair distance away from you (im east midlands). I think it might be worth investing in one or seeing i a mechanic friend has one laying about as my cousin also has one and no doubt he will be needing to use it soon enough.

Again, many thanks for the offer, and if i am ever in your neck of the woods i would buy you a drink no problem.

Also, called MB and they quoted just over £10 for a set of 4 copper washers and bolts. happy days.

 

[LeftBrain]

I just finished replacing the injector seal on my 2003 W211 E220 CDI cylinder #4 and learned a bit that I thought might be helpful to someone else down the road. Mostly this is a confirmation of what others have receommended except for my recommendation on a solvent.

First off, definitely warm the engine. That "black death" stuff is like hard candy when it's cold but becomes viscous when warm. I imagine pulling a cold one could be disasterous, or at least require a special tool and risk damaging the injector$$.

Second, MB says clean the injector and recess with a brass brush, and not to use chipping tools. Well, I started on the injector with the brass brush and that black stuff just laughed at me. I had to figure something out or it was going to take a long-long time. I finally looked in my cabinet and saw PVC pipe cleaner which is just acetone and methyl ethyl ketone. Voila - the stuff works like a champ on bioth the injectors and in the recess! It dissolves the black stuff famously. I cleaned the injectors with shop cloths wetted with the PVC pipe cleaner and cleaned out the recess with a wetted rag wrapped around a wooden brush handle. I finished up by polishing the metal surfaces with the MB brush kits. I will also admit that I very judisciously chipped some of the larger globs on the injector and around the recess with a small bladed long shank screwdriver, but the G shock was nowhere near the normal Gs from a vibrating engine.

I'll also agree with cleaning the hold-down screw hole so as not to impair the torquing process. I also lightly lubricated the tip below the thread sealant with copper based anti-seize compound. Upon replacement it didn't seem that the bolt was under significant duress, as others have alluded - the nerve wracking part for me was the initial *snap* when I began loosening the screw.

One thing is puzzling and that is the recommendation for new clamp brackets. I bought a new one, $5 US, but it was identical to the old, so that advise didn't apply to my vehicle.

Finally, I only did one cylinder since the others looked just fine but I bought screws and washers for the rest if I ever need them.

All totaled I spent about the same on tools and parts ($215 US) as if I had taken it to the shop but I'm confident in the quality of my work and that I wasn't sold a bill of goods (sir, we always recommend to do them all, with injectors too) that some mechanics are known for.

HTH - YMMV

 

[omar95m]

e220cdi 53 plate manual

This is my car, i just found out today about this black stuff. The car has done about 280 000 miles which i know is alot. I just got the cluthch done which cost £500. How long do you guys think this car can live for. Tia

 

[BlackC55]

Wow!

Get it done ASAP. The longer you leave it the more expensive it will be to sort it.