W221 steering wheel wobble/shimmer/shake

[Luminedan]

Hi all, I've followed the saga as I had the same problem with my 2012 S 350cdi Bluetec. Recently I grew tired of throwing money away and started looking for the issue myself.
I found that my brake pads were fitted the wrong way round. This is how I learned that they do directional brake pads now!! I just removed them and, luckily, my wife noticed the directional arrows on the back of each pad. Imagine my surprize, knowing that I paid top price to have them fitted by "qualified technicians" at Mercedes main dealer.
I put them back the right way round and the shaking and vibration stopped. I intend on buying a new set of pads anyway, just to take any uneven wear out of the equation.
No harm in checking...it's free too...
Hope this helps

 

[willg]

A nearside track rod end and offside torque/thrust control arm were replaced at the last MOT due to torn boots on the ball joints, after which another full alignment was carried out.

At this point the car tracks straight and true and the steering wheel shimmer is gone completely.

I cannot be sure whether one of those items was the cause all along, or whether the effect is cumulative - but I am pleased that it's not an unsolvable flaw in the car or design of the steering rack. The car is still running with the 4matic bushes on the thrust control arms FYI, I don't know whether I'll risk switching back to the RWD ones.

I think the lesson I've learned is that it must be hard to identify slight play in suspension and steering components on a heavy car when the suspension is loaded or part-loaded up. Seems obvious in retrospect, but the car was looked at so many times and nobody could find a problem.

 

[Shauny]

A problem with deep dish wheels for the likes of MB and BMW is the centre hole is cosmetically central. It's the centre hole most places use to mount the wheel on the balancer, hence the error. The wheels need to be mounted by the stud holes which mimics how they are mounted on the car.

I'm sad to say this type of wheel balance was recognized by the French who on most of their models had solid centre wheels. This forced the tyre shops to use the stud holes. The reason most places don't use the studded plates is they are incredibly expensive and they will need a 3 stud, 4 stud and 5 stud plates.

Wheels in motion, brilliant! You are one of the few who think about what should be happening, rather than, “This is what we always do “.
when I was an apprentice mechanic I was told, when the going got tough and I got stuck on something, to take 5 minutes and think. 5 minutes is a good amount of time to actually think about something, but 5 minutes labour on the end of the job is very little. So usually, go back to basics and don’t over think things, ie; keep balancing the wheels the same way and you will keep getting the same results. I love original thinkers, and they’re getting rare.

 

[notsofast]

The spigot positions the wheel on the hub - The studs hold it in place. Once bolted up there is no shear force on either the studs or the wheel spigot as the clamping force (friction) holds the wheel to the hub. The spigot and hub shoulder are machined to fine tolerances. The stud holes are oversized. Try to fit wheels to your car with oversized wheel bores and try to centre them with the wheel studs only.

 

[mgm414]

@willg I am facing the same exact issue with the steering wheel vibration that is driving me crazy! I have replaced all engine and gear mounts, left and right upper and lower control arms, stabilizer, bearings and wheel hubs are okay, all tyres are from continental, new, and in an excellent condition, all rims are checked in 4 different places and are in a perfect condition. Wheel balancing done more than 5 times, even the steering box removed and checked.

The issue with me that most of the time I get the vibrations, then all of a sudden oneday the car is smooth as silk with zero vibrations! Next I feel the car running in a rough manner where I feel the vibrations in the whole body, then it disappears!

So could that be related to the Torque/Thrust control arm? I cant wait to get rid of this issue..

With me its a 2011 w221 S550, mileage at the moment is 95000 kms, bought the car imported from japan with a mileage of 30k kms..

 

[vaskata]

@mgm414​

Hi. I have the exact same problem. It is on CL550, but it is the same car. The steering wheel shimmers/vibrates at around 55-75 mph. And the strange thing is that this vibration is not there all the time. The cause of this are not wheel/tires, cause I have 2 sets winter/summer and the vibration is the same. And it will not dissapear from time to time if it is wheels related.

So far have changed:
- thrust control arm bushings
- front disk and pads
- front wheel bearings are checked and tightened to spec
- ABC suspention fliud with filter (as it is a suspention component and can be related)
- The sphere on top of the the ABC pump
- The front suspention ABC sphere

And none of this has led to nothing. The strangest fact is that the car does not vibrate/steering wheel wobles until it is cold. The first few miles it is fine. But when all components reach operating temperature (most of the time is driven like that) the steering wheel starts shaking and there is vibration around the entire car. Any ideas?

 

[TeddyRuxpin]

I'd suspect the tyres themselves becoming warped, or wheel balancing. I've suffered from both in the past, and the latter is cheap to try, at least

 

[vaskata]

I'd suspect the tyres themselves becoming warped, or wheel balancing. I've suffered from both in the past, and the latter is cheap to try, at least

Nope, it is deffinately not tires. Have two sets, and the wobble/shaking on the steering wheel is the same with both sets. It is something else. Need more ideas on this.