WiFi SMA connector

[merc07]

Not sure where to post this and didn't see the PC/IT forum..

I have a wifi unit with a reverse sma connector. When I unscrewed the antenna, the centre pin of the connector came out with it. I pushed it back in but the signal is now very low. Is the pin supposed to be soldered in place ? It is an sma with a 4 hole square flange fitted with 4 very small security tri-wing screws.
Cheers
Adam

 

[aam]

They are normally soldered or crimped. It may be tricky to fix without replacing the whole connector.

 

[gaz_l]

You'll need to get the entire connector replaced. If the centre conductor has come adrift, in technical terms it is now "buggered".

It might just be cheaper to get a new router/repeater etc.

Cheers,

Gaz

 

[miro]

Not sure where to post this and didn't see the PC/IT forum..

I have a wifi unit with a reverse sma connector. When I unscrewed the antenna, the centre pin of the connector came out with it. I pushed it back in but the signal is now very low. Is the pin supposed to be soldered in place ? It is an sma with a 4 hole square flange fitted with 4 very small security tri-wing screws.
Cheers
Adam

I have a local "bits" place which sell those. Costs about one pound. Can also recover the item from a broken unit if the importer is willing to let you have one for "tinkering".

 

[aam]

There is a fix you can try that may work but it is not perfect. If the centre pin is making contact with the conductor, but just not properly, you could put some silver conductive paint (preferably if you have some laying around and don't have to buy it, or can acquire it) in the back of the centre pin and push it back in place over the conductor and wait for it to dry.

I personally wouldn't spend too much on it, but would aim to replace the connector as a long term solution.

 

[merc07]

Looks like a new connector then, i'll have to find a store more local to me than you Miro ! I took it apart last night and thought maybe heat the end where the coax goes in but dldn't try it, there's not alot of room, it was late and I think my eyes were shot.. Conductive paint may work - but I don't have any. I'll need a tool to get t he screws out, a watch makers tri wing which I don't have and can't find. The unit cost £800 so i'de rather fix it if possible.Cheers, Adam

 

[aam]

Finding a triwing screwdriver in a wachmaker's size is going to be tricky, so I think I would try using a flat blade screwdriver and file or grind it to do the job. You could also try shaping an allen key, preferably one from those cheap sets you find as the metal tends to be a bit softer.

 

[merc07]

Ok, managed to get it all apart - friendly phone unlock shop had a tri driver. I am now left with the R-Sma Connector with fly lead attached to a special connector at the other end.

Pics show that it is soldered but I'm unsure how the pin is soldered to the core when the solder is clearly fixedto the outer section ?

Is it repairable or do I need a new socket ?

Cheers
Adam

 

[merc07]

Couple more of the pin and insulator...

OK, I beleive the white insulator is originaly separate, the pin is placed in it and soldered to the cable which is then inserted into the housing and soldered at the end.

If I were to remove the solder would the white insulator push out or is it likely to be a once fitted thats it job??

Cheers
Adam

 

[aam]

It may be repairable. It just looks like the centre pin was not properly connected to the coax in the first place.

Does the connector disassemble further, with the rear metal section unscrewing or pulling out? If so, the centre insulator and pin could be removed and the centre wire from the coax could be tinned and then resoldered to the pin. It looks like the outer screen was later soldered in place once the centre wire and insulator was passed through the centre.

If not, it seems that you could try removing the wire completely by desoldering the outer screen / braid. Then re-strip the sheath and fold back the screening, allowing the centre insulator to pass through the centre hole and then re-solder the centre pin. You would then have to pull the whole centre assembly back and re-attach the braid to the rear. Then a bit of insulating tape to cover the excess braid visible.

Another similar method, if it works, is to re-attach the centre pin directly to the centre wire without first passing it through the body of the connector. This is providing the centre pin is thin enough to pass directly through the hole produced once you have de-soldered the braid. Once the wire is resoldered you pass the pin back through the hole and then re-attach the braid.

Alternatively you may have to use some combination of all of the above.

Remember to tin the centre wire with solder, so you can apply the minimum amount of heat for the shortest time to prevent overheating.

If all else fails, the are always the possibility you may be able to get the connector and lead as a spare part. If you contact the manufacturer try asking for a replacement pigtail assembly.

Good luck and fingers crossed that you manage to repair it without too much trouble.

 

[agatward]

It may be worth checking this company first to see if they have something that matches your entire assembly. Even if you think you can make a good solder joint or whatever 'alternative' method on something that small, at 2.4GHz frequency, you'd be surprised how bad even a good joint can be.

http://www.solwise.co.uk/wireless-cable.htm

Looking at what you have posted (pics), I think it's the PIG-IPAXRSMACSKT30 part that you'd need as a complete replacement.

 

[HughJarse]

It may be worth checking this company first to see if they have something that matches your entire assembly. Even if you think you can make a good solder joint or whatever 'alternative' method on something that small, at 2.4GHz frequency, you'd be surprised how bad even a good joint can be.

http://www.solwise.co.uk/wireless-cable.htm

Looking at what you have posted (pics), I think it's the PIG-IPAXRSMACSKT30 part that you'd need as a complete replacement.

Nice find... Im with above - buy a new one for that price.

 

[merc07]

It wont come apart anymore -

I removed the cable by unsoldering the braided end. The centre wire is about 0.5 mm longer than the braiding - obviously where it broke off. I pulled the pin back out as it's not connected to anything but I can't get the insulator out.
This needs to be removed, the pin inserted, cable put through the flange, soldered then put back in - but i'm stuck now.

I'll try solwise, maybe they can make one to order as it's the same connector but the flange fitting type with 1.5 inch cable?

Thanks
Adam

 

[aam]

It wont come apart anymore -

I removed the cable by unsoldering the braided end. The centre wire is about 0.5 mm longer than the braiding - obviously where it broke off. I pulled the pin back out as it's not connected to anything but I can't get the insulator out.
This needs to be removed, the pin inserted, cable put through the flange, soldered then put back in - but i'm stuck now.

I'll try solwise, maybe they can make one to order as it's the same connector but the flange fitting type with 1.5 inch cable?

Thanks
Adam

Oh well, it was worth a try. Solwise are quite helpful so they may well be able to make you a custom cable. The only problem may be obtaining the 4-hole chassis mount rp-sma socket.

Quick clarification on one of my earlier points, which you may well have already tried, can you not insert the centre pin from behind (through the hole where the braid was soldered - you may have to drill the excess old solder out) without removing the insulator? If this is possible you would then be able to attach the centre pin to the wire first, then slide it in to the insulator through the hole at the back and then solder the braid back (over the top of the outer core if necessary).

 

[merc07]

Unfortunately the pin has to go through the insulator first - through the end the antenna connects to. There is a flange on the pin to stop it going right through. One thought I did have if Solwise don't have the rsma I need - ask them to maka up the short fly lead with small connector ready to solder and send me the rsma socket they have. I can then drill out my insulator and use the new one and pin, if they are the same ! I think I'm getting close.Cheers, Adam

 

[aam]

Maplin do a connector (L61AZ) that is similar to the Solwise one:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/module.aspx?moduleno=44018

It may give you an idea what bits are in it.

 

[merc07]

I stood in Maplins this afternoon for 10 mins with both their sma connectors in my hand - should have bought them afterall !Did I get any work done today?Cheers,Adam.

 

[merc07]

Well after searching everywhere - I found another name for the small connector - it's called U.FL

They sell the comlete thing, with flange on Ebay for £3.00 delivered so I bought a couple of them. Mean time I'll test the unit with the ones I bought from Solwise (non flange type) this afternoon !

Thanks for everyones help on this,

Cheers
Adam

http://cgi.ebay.com/U-FL-IPX-to-RP-...emQQ_trksidZp1713.m153.l1262#ebayphotohosting

 

[aam]

It's good to hear that you'll be able to get your WiFi working properly again.