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300E starting problems

MBManInKen and myself are not arguing,and I could never fall out with him, its often a matter of how you perceive things. I know from the post that I have answered how it all works and I will leave the post as it stands :):)
 
Of course I'll defend my corner passionately when I know I'm right. :devil: :D

But I have too much respect for Malcolm and his wisdom to let things go sour and I wish that if I ever make it to his age (not likely :crazy:), I will have retained his level of energy and dynamism. :)
 
Without wishing to fuel any debate further I just want to say MIke fix the car you have, it'll be much simpler. You could transplant the S320 engine but the ECU will require the CAN system to tell it to run.
That in turn requires the ignition switch and maybe gearbox ECU as well.

It could be done, but you would be too old to drive it by the time you have finished.

BAS. This is simply a system for applying greater braking pressure by use of a second servo. You can easily tell a car with BAS as it has two servos piggybacked together.
Under sudden braking a valve closes to apply vacuum to the second servo thus applying enough pressure to bring the ABS into play.

Although this system works in conjunction with the other braking system enhancements it isn't directly related to any of them, it simply applies more pedal pressure to the master cylinder.

My understanding is that 1998 was the first year of introduction.
 
P.p.s. It has a rotary idle actuator Graeme. seems to turn freely and operates ok if a power supply is put to the terminals though.

Normally the OVP would supply 12v to the rotary idle actuator and the current passing thro would be controlled by the ECU ( in a closed loop control circuit arrangement) despite operating OK off line it might be pulling down the voltage to the ECU as Malcom suggested.

The other possible culprit to pull down the ECU VOLTAGE would be the ABS system. Have you tried disconnecting it temporarily?
 
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Has it been acsertained whether the non running is spark related or fuel related yet.?
 
Mike doesen't need to know what one looks like, it was Nick asking about he condition of it....;)
 
Wouldn't want High Tension around here...
 
Let's not put up too much resistance or we'll all end up in the dark.
 
Non running is fuel related. If the ovp is left in, it will turn over and half heartedly try to fire when the key is first turned but if I partly wedge the air displacement flap open (artificially inreasing the ammount of fuel sent to the injectors) and leave my foot off the accelerator it is more willing to fire. take the ovp out and it will fire up much easier without having to "overfuel" the injectors. I still suspect a vaccuum leak somewhere so I will have to knuckle down and dismantle the inlet manifold side of the motor and inspect everything thoroughly and replace parts as required. :(
 
OVP or EPHR

And now for something completely different! I still can't get my head round why the car runs when the you remove the OVP since you are temporarily disabling the ECU which controls the mixture via the electrohydraulic pressure regulator. If that fails the EHPR goes to a default (limp home position) which is where you probably are with the OVP disconnected. A couple of things occur. the EPHR has a fuel cut off function which is mainly governed by the position of the throttle valve switch plus ignition data. If the switch is faulty you may be getting fuel cut off. The first thing to try is to disconnect the EHPR rather than the OVP and see what happens. If the car runs then you can explore further since there are many things to influence mixture control other than the ones I have mentioned but my first port of call would first be the throttle switch.
 

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