300E starting problems

[Dieselman]

http://www.boschcarservice.co.uk/gaFind.asp#B

 

[Ian B Walker]

Thanks Will, that resolves a problem I am having.

 

[Dieselman]

Errm...How..?

 

[Ian B Walker]

Finding a Bosche Agent other than the useless one near me.

 

[jaymanek]

i found that most of the ones near me are useless too.. there are three in the midlands area... none of them knew what ASR was and had never heard of traction control in a "merc that old"...

spending 6-10K on Bosch equipment doesnt make you a specialist IMO..

 

[300E Mike]

Well, Squirted a load of silicone lube around the injector seals, warmed the engine thru' and attached a 24" manometer to the inlet manifold. only had 7" vaccuum showing!!! removed injectors and seals and also removed plastic injector bushes from manifold. On inspection, found lube had "tracked" past the lip of the injector seal! Replaced all "o" rings on the plastic injector bushes as a matter of routine, cleaned up the injectors, paying particular attention to the tip and reinstalled with new injector seals from GSF car parts. engine started fairly easy as it was still warm. refitted manometer to the manifold and it had enough vaccuum at tickover to draw out all the manometer fluid!!!! RESULT! :bannana:

The old girl now feels much improved in driving performance and appears to start ok when warm with the ovp fitted (so long as the throttle is given a couple of prods whilst cranking over). Will have to wait at least 3 hours now to let her cool down and see if she starts any better when cold! Hope so!!

 

[Dieselman]

refitted manometer to the manifold and it had enough vaccuum at tickover to draw out all the manometer fluid!!!! RESULT! :bannana:

Did it run well on that..??

Nice result, just shows back to basics always works.

 

[300E Mike]

Did it run well on that..??

Nice result, just shows back to basics always works.

nope, she spluttered a bit!!! Just hope startings ok when cold now!! watch this space, Im not holding my breath!!!

 

[television]

good luck Mike

 

[300E Mike]

good luck Mike

Ta Malcolm, got a feeling I may need it!!! lol ........................

 

[300E Mike]

Ah well, another possible cause eliminated, still not cured the fault!
Glad I got the injector seals ruled out and my vaccuum leak cured and I suppose they won't need changing again for at least another 10 years! Ho-hum whilst hot starting is now ok and driveability is much better, I still have the original problem i.e. To start from cold (with the ovp relay in), I have to wedge the air metering flap slightly open. the car will then fire, run for a few seconds and die. It will do this 7 or 8 times then run ok once it has built up a bit of heat in the water jacket, either that or I have to pull the ovp relay and it will start and run first time (after churning over on the key for a few seconds)

I guess that the engine temp sensor for the ECU could be at fault when there is a voltage running thru' it but not showing when tested without being connected to the ECU?

 

[300E Mike]

Just another thought, Could the rotary idle actuator be faulty even though it operates when a voltage is applied to the terminals? I noticed today whist driving the car that the idle speed did not try to raise itself when the engine was put under load, coming close to stalling when shifted from neutral/ park into either drive or reverse or when the steering was put onto full lock? Prior to the cars lengthy lay up period it had backfired a few times when the lpg was in use, blowing the pipe off between the air metering body and the rotary idle actuator. Maybe this caused damage to the actuator internals which did not manifest itself whilst the car was in regular use but allowed degradation of the actuator whilst the car was laid up?

 

[television]

The engine should speed up when selecting D join a volt meter to terminal 16 of the ecu switch ign on and select P or N and and the meter should read the battery voltage, check and go back to D and a voltage drop should take place.

Same thing happens with terminal 19 and if you turn the air con off and on

 

[television]

When a voltage is applied to the rotary idle valve it should buzz

 

[MBManInKen]

When a voltage is applied to the rotary idle valve it should buzz

Malcolm, you are going to miss your plane!

 

[television]

Malcolm, you are going to miss your plane!

I am getting up the strength to pull the plug, one more coffee and thats it

 

[300E Mike]

Malcolm, you are going to miss your plane!

Safe flight malcolm and cheers for the pointers on pin tests for the ecu etc!

 

[300E Mike]

The engine should speed up when selecting D join a volt meter to terminal 16 of the ecu switch ign on and select P or N and and the meter should read the battery voltage, check and go back to D and a voltage drop should take place.

Same thing happens with terminal 19 and if you turn the air con off and on

This should also read a voltage/ volt drop as appropriate to gear position at the Idle actuator connector plug shouldnt it?

 

[television]

This should also read a voltage/ volt drop as appropriate to gear position at the Idle actuator connector plug shouldnt it?

I have turned off my other computer now and I cant answer that but

ECU connections
1 Aux air valve idle adjust
2 N/C
3 the same as 1
4 ditto
5 throttle potentiometer switch
6 cruise control
7 N/C
8 N/C
9 fuel pump relay
10 fuel pressure actuator
11 NC
12 fuel pressure actuator
13 micro switch over run
14 Air flow sensor
15 Earth
16 ditto
17 Air flow sensor
18 Air flow sensor
19 N/C
20 earth
21 coolant temp
22 N/C
23 N/C
24 fuel pump relay
25f fuel pump relay


Best I can do for now, do have it fixed by the time I get back