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300TE Wagon - Rear brake pipes....!

punjabi

Active Member
Joined
Apr 22, 2005
Messages
110
Location
Surrey, UK
Car
V230, 300TE
'92 model W124, failed MOT on just the corroded rear brake pipes! Fexi hoses are Ok! Have just ordered the replacement pipes from MERC arriving tomorrow - diagram showed them to be complete wiith union/fittings and profiled to fittment. But are they? Am planning to fit myself - any tips? Do they miss the petrol tank?

2 from the rear off and near side meet in centre to branch into single leading to front of car - have ordered all 3 including the connection junction bracket - anyone replaced these recently?
 
'92 model W124, failed MOT on just the corroded rear brake pipes! Fexi hoses are Ok! Have just ordered the replacement pipes from MERC arriving tomorrow - diagram showed them to be complete wiith union/fittings and profiled to fittment. But are they? Am planning to fit myself - any tips? Do they miss the petrol tank?

2 from the rear off and near side meet in centre to branch into single leading to front of car - have ordered all 3 including the connection junction bracket - anyone replaced these recently?

There are some post on doing this on the forum,do a search,, the layout is in the link http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.as...GM=717.433&CT=F&cat=15U&SID=42&SGR=090&SGN=04
 
expect Ian Walker and Oli (Black C55) to answer shortly/this evening.

From a recent discussion with Ian I do understand its a pig of a job whilst the subframe is still in place. Perhaps give 124works a quick call?
 
expect Ian Walker and Oli (Black C55) to answer shortly/this evening.

From a recent discussion with Ian I do understand its a pig of a job whilst the subframe is still in place. Perhaps give 124works a quick call?


This is why I did not say too much in my post,,, I wonder if joiners could be fitted to save removing the sub frame, I mean there are joiners in the system and if you have new pipes would 2 more make much difference,,see what Ian thinks
 
Forgot to mention earlier....the MOT guy said he would need to drop the petrol tank:eek: to 'fix' pipes!?! I doubt that but maybe whoever knows about this task would be able to comment if so the case! Anyone got any photos of the underneath showing the scenario?
 
Good luck. The pipes come as straight lines. Have to be formed partially in situ. Best if the sub frame is removed and this is where your troubles start. But before expanding more. Have all 3 pipes corroded? 2 pipes go to the callipers and one runs front to back over the top of the sub frame.

If it is only the 2 calliper pipes you may get away with just dropping the sub frame mounting bolts, undoing the ABS Sensor from the diff and lowering the sub frame 4 inches. You need a ramp for this though and a gearbox stand / jack. If you have the front to rear pipe corroded then Everything has to be dropped and that my friend is your worst nightmare. Hydraulic line connectors can be used but make sure that you have a GOOD pipe flaring tool and keep the joint away from the elements. Best situated where the pipe goes upwards into the wheel arch to follow the wheel arch profile.
 
yep, it's an a**e of a job and not an uncommon failure - these 25 year old brake lines just don't last do they? :)

Whilst you aare dropping the subframe, take time out to change it's bushes and check for any corrosion. If I were you. Whilst itr's up on ramps and in pieces, I'd do the rear drop links as well at the same time and the bushes in the radius arms

Andy
 
whist you do have to bend them, at least they are the correct length with the correct fittings both ends - and isnt the cost very reasonable.

The estate has the flat fuel tank whereas the saloon and coupe have the upright tank in boot area so better.
 
yep, it's an a**e of a job and not an uncommon failure - these 25 year old brake lines just don't last do they? :)

Whilst you aare dropping the subframe, take time out to change it's bushes and check for any corrosion. If I were you. Whilst itr's up on ramps and in pieces, I'd do the rear drop links as well at the same time and the bushes in the radius arms

Andy

According to my maths 15 years.
If Mercedes used nylon sheathed pipes like some Japanese models
they would last 25 years.

adam
 
Phew! New brake pipes fitted and out of the way! Old ones only corroded real bad behind the hub but leading onwards to upper ends at the distributor were fine! Bushes etc. seem OK for now!

Next step is the general servicing - engine and tranny oils, which spec/make would be most suited to the 180K mileage engine? Also, which would be the best suited ignition lead set?

Anyone got a PDF of the original Owner's Manual for this model? 300 TE Auto 1992 Model.

Thanks.
 
Phew! New brake pipes fitted and out of the way! Old ones only corroded real bad behind the hub but leading onwards to upper ends at the distributor were fine!

Just think, all that effort could've been saved with a coat of waxoyl..
 
Just think, all that effort could've been saved with a coat of waxoyl..

this is an essential thing to do on any car over 10 yrs old IMO... and of course helps younger cars too..

I have done all three of mine... the W123 was done a few years back... this is now showing signs of needing touching up around the edges...

Before i did it, the annual MOT would show up a small patch of welding or corrosion.. cant remember the last time anything was welded on the car since...

I hate doing the job though... its so mucky... wrecked three pairs of overalls and my hair with waxoyl.. (why im losing my hair.. honest..)
 
I hate doing the job though... its so mucky... wrecked three pairs of overalls and my hair with waxoyl.. (why im losing my hair.. honest..)

probably works pretty well as thermo-nuclear sun cream though...
 
probably works pretty well as thermo-nuclear sun cream though...

It does and makes your hands silky smooth :):)

I kéep an old spray gun for Waxoil and warm the Waxoil up to over 20c where it flows easily.

Wonderful stuff :bannana::bannana:
 

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