Angle Grinding Rust

[312 Sprinter]

3M Clean & Strip Discs 100mm x 13mm x 12.7mm XT-DC Purple - Finishing & Deburring Wheels - Non-woven Abrasive Products - BND Abrasives and Tapes Ltd - main distributors for 3M abrasives - Andover, Hampshire, UK

A clean and strip disk on a drill would be my weapon of choice, remember you need an arbor to go with it. You only need a yacht to go with the 'arbor if you've got an SL

 

[B325YUD]

For what it's worth, I'll second the use of wire brush wheels, strip-it discs, or similar, to remove the visible rust, then a phosphoric acid treatment of the bare surfaces, before a good primer/sealant/ paint, etc.

I like Jenolite as I've had a 25 ltr drum of it for years, and in a garage where new chrome parts will go rusty, treated bare metal has remained rust-free for months or more.

Happily, as far as I can see, the only rust on my 230 TE is on things like the lower track control arms, a bit on the springs, and surface rust on some exhaust parts.

 

[Laters]

Just to add my opinion. I have used a grinder and if the corrosion isn't bad a rotary wire brush to treat rust over the years.
if the cleanup is done correctly and all corrosion pitting removed it can be effective at preventing the panel becoming worse and need changing.
i did the front arches of my current w202 3 years ago and painted them followed by a liberal coating of waxoyl to the underside/lips and it is still sound so a reasonable job can be done providing care is taken with the cleanup/surface prep.

The subframe of my quantum was quite badly corroded when I got it. I spent a good few days cleaning it up with a rotary wire brush, primed it and painted it with chassis paint. That still looks the same now 6 years on with no corrosion reapearing.

 

[jonnyboy]

i carnt be ased anymore u do it your way do u give warrenty on pannels that were rusty that you have rubbed down? if you do then you must be the only one because i dont no of any because it will come back! and im not saying that its in the metal as such im saying its where you cannot see with your eye it may look clean but there will still be rust there in the metal is just a term stop being such a k**b about it

Andy

Welcome to the forum - you've certainly made an impression.

There is only one person acting like a "k**b" in this thread.

 

[StevenN]

So what if it last a couple of years.
My car has cost me in the area of £2500 in servicing and repairs in 6 months.

Asking a bodyshop to replace the wings, cut and replace the arches is a bit too much for me.

I do like a nice looking car and I don't like the rust bubbles coming up on the wings and sills.

If I can keep it in check without too much effort that I am ok with that.

I don't want to win awards for best in show
But I don't want to fit chrome trim either.

So If POR is not the best paint for a panel what should I be looking at?

Don't say a Ford! lol

 

[CKLclive]

Cheers, Ive done the job many times before, I just wanted a way to remove the rust quicker

as said get an angle grinder with a wire brush for best results
or a 3M strip and clean wheel for use on a high speed drill that will
remove paint and rust then if its pitted sand blast local area and use
Bilt Hamber gel and prime with their galv weld through primer
then good quality 2 pack primer over the top

 

[312 Sprinter]

as said get an angle grinder with a wire brush for best results
or a 3M strip and clean wheel for use on a high speed drill that will
remove paint and rust then if its pitted sand blast local area and use
Bilt Hamber gel and prime with their galv weld through primer
then good quality 2 pack primer over the top

I'd add Bilt Hamber Dynax in the cavaties and the reverse side of panels to that.

http://www.bilthamber.com/pro-introduction.php?cname=Corrosion Prevention&name=dynax S50

 

[jefrs]

The grinder will be fine but get a wire brush like angle grinder wire brush items - Get great deals on Grinders, Rotary Tools items on eBay UK!

and some thick welders gauntlets too.

And eye protection!

And overalls.

Those wires come off at 10,000 rpm, and they stick in.


btw if you already have a rotary polisher, it's the same screw thread. It will be the only chance you have to ram the thing up to full speed. But an angle grinder does at least have a partial guard.

 

[jefrs]

Chemicals do not last forever.
I've noticed that old opened bottles of Jenolite loose their effectiveness. The phosphoric acid is unstable and breaks down leaving pink water.
Paint only has a shelf life of 2 to 4 years. It "blows". I used to monitor the contents of a large paints/solvents/acids store. I recently bought a tin of Hammerite primer, only to find I had a solid block of plastic. Got it changed. If the contents of your paint pot looks less than perfect, throw it away, it won't stick or cure properly.
I've just spotted that Fertan rust treatment is back on the market after many years absence. Not cheap but they do guarantee it works for 10 years.