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any tips for removing brake caliper?

sawman

Active Member
Joined
Nov 3, 2012
Messages
82
Location
The North East
Car
W202 C280 estate
I think I have a bit of a bearing issue, so picked up some new ones on the way home, looking at the hubs there ia lot of crud around the caliper bolts, It looks like these are 18mm bolts (I know this because I have 17mm and 19mm wrenches:doh:) so after obtaining the correct size in the morning I am hoping to get these off and then get the bearings swapped.

Is there any risk that the bolts will have cold welded themselves in and that they will fracture rather than come out - I have given then a few squirts of penetrating fluid this evening - so hopefully I'll stand a chance tomorrow

tips gratefully received
 
Hi Paul

The only way I could get mine off was with a impact socket and a 3ft bar , I had to first remove a steering track rod end to get square onto the socket . It's a right pain to get them loose , I broke 2 normal sockets before trying a impact socket .
Marc
 
Thanks, thats cheered me up no end - I'll have a crack tomorrow, but might end up at my local mechanic by the sounds of it....
 
With a good socket and bar,they should crack.
 
You may find it easier to remove the caliper from the mounting bracket , the two large hex bolts on the top or the caliper

Marc
 
Caliper bolts have thread lock on them, so are always very tight, but a decent length breaker bar (18" or 24") will get them loose. Remember to use either new bolts on reassembly, or use thread lock on the old ones if re-using them. I know it's obvious, but make sure to use jack stands as well as the car jack and chock the rear wheels as fighting caliper bolts can easily cause a car to move a bit.
 
Recently had to remove mine to replace the discs, managed to undo both sides with just a normal socket and T bar without much difficulty. Mine is a W203 so later than yours though. Good luck.

If they are tight, a shock from a hammer whilst applying pressure to release them sometimes helps, but you will obviously need helping hands for that. One trying to undo the bolt and one striking the back of the socket, or the head of the bolt if using a spanner, with a hammer. Also if using a ring spanner, striking the shaft of it with a hammer in the same anti-clockwise direction while applying pressure will sometimes do the trick. Mind your fingers though.
 
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As said a good shock often helps and should be enough but FWIW loctite is temperature limited- on paper ~ 150C but a trick i used to use with delicate components in the bicycle world is simmer 'em in boiling water for a few minutes and then they'd practically fall apart despite being assembled with loctite.
 
Breaker bar or if you have one an impact gun works a treat its one of the best purchases to my tool collection gets a lot of use lol
 
thanks all. i'll work my way through the suggestions. sounds like it might be a sweaty morning
 
Nah, used tons of penetrating oil over a few hours, and spent a while cussing, but no shifty. I'll drop it in at the local chap this week probably needs an impact wrench
 
Mole grips and a hammer seems to be most local mechanics' combination of choice - and often works very well... :crazy:

This does not sound a very good idea.
A proper impact socket - the correct size ... A bit a heat ... And a lot of grunt -- is required.
They are always as tight as hell.
However, they do come loose and I've never known one to shear off.
(There's always a first time !!)
 
Tbh can't understand why they are so tight , I think they are torqued to 110 lb ft . The only way I could get mine off was with a impact socket and a 4 ft bar on the end off it , and I was worried about braking the bolt .
 
grober said:
Scaffold poles have usefully been employed to supplement breaker bars in the past!

Yep , I used the handle from a large trolly jack , on a impact socket after splitting 2 standard teng sockets .
 

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