APS 30, How to test?

[bitonw]

Hi,

Just bought an APS 30 (BE4718) and want to test this unit before I gone strip down the dash etc.

Does any body know if it's possible to test it without in the car?

I have an 13.8 Volt DC power unit, used it for CB Radio's long time ago. Found some info about the pin layout. Tried it with pin 4 and 7 on + and pin 8 on - of connector C1 but nothing happened.

Thanks,
Biton

 

[stats007]

What APS30 is it? If it's single DIN it should just swap over in a couple of minutes.

 

[A-AvantGarde]

I would test it in the car, probably easiest.

I'm sure it's possible to bench test it but I wouldn't know where to start (if you find out please let us know). Alfie (who runs comand.co.uk) may be able to tell us how to test units as I'm sure he has to do a lot of that with his COMAND units.

Fitting into the W203 does require a bit of interior trim to be removed, it's not quite as easy as pulling out the old unit with a couple of keys!

I recently upgraded to Audio 30 APS from Audio 10 in a W163 ML. It was plug and play (other than a coding issue we had to use a Star equipped MB specialist for), it took longer to fit the OEM roof antenna than the head unit!

 

[stats007]

I've fitted one into a newer C class - the BE4718 version of APS30 I think. Do you have to move the vents all the way up and remove a few screws etc?

 

[A-AvantGarde]

I've fitted one into a newer C class - the BE4718 version of APS30 I think. Do you have to move the vents all the way up and remove a few screws etc?

Yes that's exactly what you need to do, there are some good instructions on how to do this (I have a PDF document if anyone needs them). I've removed this trim on a number of W203's, it's not to bad, although those clips in the vents are a real pain the first time you try it...

 

[bitonw]

Yes, you do.

Guided install on http://www.sport-coupe.de with pictures. It's indeed a bit of a work and thats why I want to test this unit before spending time to break down my car...

 

[stats007]

It only took me about 15 minutes but I know what you mean. If you do do it remember to cover the rest of the console with a towel or something as dropping screwdrivers can gouge bits out of wood etc.

There should be a live and switched live to the unit - that's all that's needed to get it going - if you've tried this then it doesn't look good.

 

[A-AvantGarde]

It only took me about 15 minutes but I know what you mean. If you do do it remember to cover the rest of the console with a towel or something as dropping screwdrivers can gouge bits out of wood etc.

There should be a live and switched live to the unit - that's all that's needed to get it going - if you've tried this then it doesn't look good.

Yep definitely doesn't take that long. I'd advise you to get a longer handled Torx 20 driver, this makes it much easier to get the Torx screws behind the vents out. It's really tight for space otherwise!

 

[bitonw]

It only took me about 15 minutes but I know what you mean. If you do do it remember to cover the rest of the console with a towel or something as dropping screwdrivers can gouge bits out of wood etc.

There should be a live and switched live to the unit - that's all that's needed to get it going - if you've tried this then it doesn't look good.

well according the info found on the web pin 4 & 7 should be live (+) and 8 ground (-). but the unit didn't do a thing. may be it needs another signal to startup...

 

[stats007]

Did you read the pins the right way round? It shouldn't need anything else at all other than power and a ground. I presume the fuse is fine?

 

[bitonw]

yep. the 10a fuse is beeing tested and fine.

Connectior A (corrected the text as another document has this connector coded as C1)
1 3 5 7
2 4 6 8

is what i used

 

[stats007]

From memory that's the wrong connector and is used for the CD changer. You need the 16-pin connection.

 

[bitonw]

From memory that's the wrong connector and is used for the CD changer. You need the 16-pin connection.

This is what I have:

See .pdf file. It's in German but quite clear (well I speak German)

Pin 4 -> battery
Pin 7 -> Ignition
Pin 8 -> Ground

I don't have any 16-pin connector on this unit BE4718.

Also this http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/showthread.php?t=28891 might be the issue that I cannot get any life in the unit since I don't have Can bus active on the bench... So I will need to remove the Audio 10 CD and connect the APS 30 to test it...

 

[stats007]

The 16-pin connector uses the two 8-pin sockets marked A & B. Something is wrong as you've stated you're using C which is a 10-pin connector but you've only shown 8 connections? The CAN bus doesn't need to be connected for the unit to operate.

 

[bitonw]

Your right but I used the correct connector (bottom one) as I used an other document what coded this connector (A) as C1.

The attached .pdf document code this connector as A...

 

[bitonw]

After reading the comment of Miro in another thread I think it's not possible to bence test this APS 30, same as for Audio 10.
Miro writes that the CAN bus is used for some information. I'm not surprised that the Ignition power goes over the CAN bus too... That makes sence since when I connected the APS 30 to my power supply it took some current but didn't startup. I had the idea that it needed some signal...

Any ideas or experiance with this?


**** Miro's thread: ****

Connector A

Pin 1 -
Pin 2 DIAGNOSTIC LINE
Pin 3 MUTE
Pin 4 +12V
Pin 5 ANTENNA
Pin 6 -
Pin 7 -
Pin 8 GROUND

The car has canbus so not all of those lines are needed as the information is transported over the car network to Connector C via CAN-H and CAN-L

 

[stats007]

It doesn't need a CAN connection as I've already said. I have tested a couple of APS 30s without and they're fine. If yours isn't working then it looks like it isn't working!

 

[bitonw]

Alright, Will test it again but I'm afraid that it's a DOA.

BTW, How did you test it stats007? I just clipped some crocodile clips on the pins. Since I saw a kind of clip on the left side of the socket may be that has to be pressed in. This will happened when you install a connector in the socket. Any way will have some fun in the next view days...

 

[stats007]

I had a spare DIN connector that I plugged in and supplied power to. This worked on both a BE4718 that I sold on and fitted to a C class and also a BE4716 that's in my car at the moment.

To be sure why don't you try it in the car? It really isn't much work getting the old one out.

 

[clkman]

Hi,

Have a look at this web site page. It's for a comand install but does show the pin outs for plug A ( C1 ) and also how to take out the dash on a W203 C class.

Plug A (C1) is the main power in to the unit and is the same for Audio10, 30 and comand.

You need to supply power to

pin 4 ( 12V+ perm )
pin 7 ( 12V+ ignition)
pin 8 ( 12V- ground)

Link 4 and 7 together is OK to test the Audio30 APS and it should now power up OK, this is how I tested my Audio 30 APS ( now changed to COMAND ) without any problems.

Hope this helps.

http://phdwebsite.powerpulse.cc/COMAND/COMAND install and removal WIS.pdf