Bad battery? Bad starter? Bad something else?

[Darragh1]

A6519060026 for non start-stop, Denso

Thanks very much for that info.

 

[grober]

I believe the Fiamm vr800 is an AGM battery. Get an exchange reconditioned starter motor

 

[Darragh1]

I believe the Fiamm vr800 is an AGM battery. Get an exchange reconditioned starter motor

Vr800 is agm. Is the fact relevant?
Recond mb from mb is 500 while new denso oem is 170. Is denso good?
Thanks,

 

[grober]

https://www.autodoc.co.uk/car-parts/oem/a6519060026 CHOICE FOR YOU?
Denso are JAPANESE and part owned by Toyota and should be fine

 

[MikeInWimbledon]

While I admire your persistence, I’m wondering why you’re not dropping this in to your friendly neighbourhood car electrician?

It does seem like a straightforward problem for someone “with that very particular set of skills. Skills he has acquired over a very long career. He will look for you, Will find it for you. And he will kill it for you."

(With apologies to Liam Neeson)

 

[geoffus]

If you have tried to jump start the car with a known good donor battery and it still won't turn over, then it's not the battery at fault. It has to be the starter, it could even be loose battery connections or loose at the starter itself. If possible check for 12v at the large starter terminal, and again whilst a friend tries to start the car.

 

[colinallcars]

If you have tried to jump start the car with a known good donor battery and it still won't turn over, then it's not the battery at fault. It has to be the starter, it could even be loose battery connections or loose at the starter itself. If possible check for 12v at the large starter terminal, and again whilst a friend tries to start the car.

Whilst I agree, we are assuming the correct jump start technique was used. Just connecting a ‘donor’ battery is often not enough, the engine has to be running to provide enough ‘oomph’ otherwise you’ll still just get a click.

 

[geoffus]

Whilst I agree, we are assuming the correct jump start technique was used. Just connecting a ‘donor’ battery is often not enough, the engine has to be running to provide enough ‘oomph’ otherwise you’ll still just get a click.

I think it would be enough if it’s a good battery. 2 batteries in parallel would at least be enough to attempt even a sluggish response.

 

[colinallcars]

I think it would be enough if it’s a good battery. 2 batteries in parallel would at least be enough to attempt even a sluggish response.

But if it’s not a good battery? which is what we are trying to establish.

 

[geoffus]

But if it’s not a good battery? which is what we are trying to establish.

Sorry, I meant if the donor was a good battery.

 

[Darragh1]

While I admire your persistence, I’m wondering why you’re not dropping this in to your friendly neighbourhood car electrician?

It does seem like a straightforward problem for someone “with that very particular set of skills. Skills he has acquired over a very long career. He will look for you, Will find it for you. And he will kill it for you."

(With apologies to Liam Nees

Fair point and I have the car booked in with my indie. Meantime I want to see to see what I can see...

 

[Darragh1]

If you have tried to jump start the car with a known good donor battery and it still won't turn over, then it's not the battery at fault. It has to be the starter, it could even be loose battery connections or loose at the starter itself. If possible check for 12v at the large starter terminal, and again whilst a friend tries to start the car.

Donor was good but as for getting under the car, not for me unless someday I invest in a car lift.

 

[Darragh1]

Whilst I agree, we are assuming the correct jump start technique was used. Just connecting a ‘donor’ battery is often not enough, the engine has to be running to provide enough ‘oomph’ otherwise you’ll still just get a click.

hi it was done correctly oomph and a little vrrooom

 

[Darragh1]

Starter fuses are blowing which logically means a starter related problem.
I checked the voltage at the battery with the multimeter tonight 11.9 with no key. Key to position 2 , 11.6 (auto lights on).
I haven't started the car in a few days because I have only one good 20amp fuse left and am saving it for the drive to my indie hopefully next week.
Also a passenger airbag alert came up and the ok made it go away. I think this is related to the fading battery. Some very strange things happen when the battery is low on the mercs in my limited experience.
Maybe I will need a starter but I have a sneaking optimism that a new battery might (however unlikely and illogical) solve the starter issue.
I'll go to a battery place tomorrow and report back.
Brace yourselves for some seriously exciting revelation.
Thank yous,
D.

 

[MikeInWimbledon]

Fair point and I have the car booked in with my indie. Meantime I want to see to see what I can see...

I didn’t suggest an Indie.

My point was that a car Electrician has decades of specialist skills and experience to stop you from wasting time, unnecessarily replacing parts, and making the situation more complicated and worse, as you seem to have done from your last post.

A battery “specialist” will always just sell you a new battery, no matter whether you need it or not. He’ll always sell you a new battery even if the battery is flat, or if you’ve not made good connections. It’s how he feeds his kids.

Finally if you’re about to blow your last big fuse, there’s something wrong with the circuitry that isn’t battery related. Weak batteries don’t blow fuses. And you really should “give in” and buy a bag replacement fuses for less than a fiver from Amazon, rather than risk blowing your last fuse and getting stranded.

 

[E55BOF]

I didn’t suggest an Indie.

My point was that a car Electrician has decades of specialist skills and experience to stop you from wasting time, unnecessarily replacing parts, and making the situation more complicated and worse, as you seem to have done from your last post.

A battery “specialist” will always just sell you a new battery, no matter whether you need it or not. He’ll always sell you a new battery even if the battery is flat, or if you’ve not made good connections. It’s how he feeds his kids.

Finally if you’re about to blow your last big fuse, there’s something wrong with the circuitry that isn’t battery related. Weak batteries don’t blow fuses. And you really should “give in” and buy a bag replacement fuses for less than a fiver from Amazon, rather than risk blowing your last fuse and getting stranded.

Precisely. The battery may be past its best as well, but it cannot be the cause of the blowing fuses.

 

[geoffus]

I'm a little confused about your starter fuse, is it a fuse for the solenoid on the starter motor ?
If so then it has to be the solenoid at fault, it must be shorting to earth or the positive to the solenoid is shorting somewhere.
In the old days we used to short out the solenoid terminals with a screwdriver to see if the starter would turn, but you have said you don't fancy getting under the car.

 

[m80]

Good donor to poor slave with cheap jump leads will fail to get enough voltage across in a short time.
Sounds like the starter (or solenoid) is at fault though. Possibly the starter is seizing causing an overload.

 

[MikeInWimbledon]

If you're tempted to just buy another starter to fix a starter problem, bear in mind that it might be something as simple as bad connections, or that the starter might must need a simple repair or refurbish: all routine stuff for a car electrician, who either do it themselves or have access to the specialist firms that will do this for them.

 

[Darragh1]

Mikeinwimbledon,
It's ok, I'm not in the habit of flinging parts into cars unnecessarily or flinging money at indies.
I appreciate the advice and knowledge thank you.
I'll get back when I know more.
D