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Big problem!

Sorry, DM, you've lost me with this one.

I think he means the battery positive lead in the boot that is hanging loose may be touching the car body :eek: so take care
 
I had the same problem where the boot on my 208 ailed to open when I was dropping a friend at the airport with all his luggage in my boot, imagine my embarrassment, make you think what the £500 Mercedes charge for a service is for when the don't do half the stuff they say they'll do like lubricating the locks and checking the tyre pressures, if you don't believe me test them next time.

Anyhow it was xmass and no where was open and when they did finally open Mercedes didn't have the time but pointed me to a locksmith. He lubricate the lock and gradually hammered the key in until it turned then he took the lock apart and cleaned it up, be careful lots of small bits that need to be reassembled exactly as they were otherwise the key wont fit. it cost me £100 plus another £80 for shipping my friends luggage to Monaco.

well good luck, I suggest taking it to a locksmith but if you decide to carry the above out your self I would suggest being very careful and please note that I don't take any reasonability for any damage the above instructions may cause. If you need the number for the locksmith I used (I think he's in Shepperton, Surrey) let me know.
 
Jukie - a couple of things.

As the W202 has the battery in the boot there is a pretty heavy duty +12V lead running from the front of the car to the rear. You can locate this in the passenger side front footwell.

The vacuum pump for the central locking can be seen in the picture of pluggers car that Dieselman posted - it is in the boot on the RHS.

If applying 12V to one point or another doesn't do the trick, you may be able to reach just enough into the boot through the first aid kit aperture, or through one of the speaker holes?

The boot lock is held in with only 2 small bolts, and it has probably ceased.

A friend of mine did the same thing as you and before I had spoken to him, he had (or someone else did) drilled the boot lock out!

Failing any of these, another slightly nasty way in would be to smash one of the rear light clusters (££s).

Good luck, and I hope the story has a happy ending.

Will
 
As will said, you can pick up the + battery cable under the passenger footwell carpet, there is a distribution block there. But as Dieselman said the problem is if the + battery cable in the boot is touching the body.

The vacuum pump is in the boot on the estate, just above the battery compartment!!

There are some tricks in the trade for certain cars but they are different for different cars. On some fords you can put a + feed on a light wire somewhere and it unlocks the doors, but might only work if you have a battery connected.

I would try connecting a + to the cable in the passenger footwell, if you get lots of sparks then quickly disconnect it. What else can you do?
 
Under the bonnet on the right hand side as you look in there's a connector block, (look for heavy duty cables), the wires from it go straight to the battery, just put some jump leads on there (carefully). I did exactly what you did, it's on here somewhere.
 
Simon said:
Under the bonnet on the right hand side as you look in there's a connector block, (look for heavy duty cables), the wires from it go straight to the battery, just put some jump leads on there (carefully). I did exactly what you did, it's on here somewhere.


Ahh, but you worked the key into the lock.!!
 
kaveh said:
it cost me £100 plus another £80 for shipping my friends luggage to Monaco.
Last time I checked, the bootlock is about £120 brand new pre-set to your existing keys. Worth checking the replacement prices before having faulty items repaired! :)
 
I will be trying some of these suggestions out tomorrow. When I've located the cables either under the bonnet or in the passanger footwell, is there anywhere in particular I need to attache the -ve cable? And I'm as certain as I can be that the +ve battery terminal in the boot is not in contact with the body.

If I get chance today, I will go down the "Wheelie" route of copious quantities of WD40 and patient manipualtion of lock & key.
 
Dieselman said:
Ahh, but you worked the key into the lock.!!

True, I was not aware of that connector at the time. I was a locksmith for 4 years though and have "ways" of getting locks open.
 
jukie said:
I will be trying some of these suggestions out tomorrow. When I've located the cables either under the bonnet or in the passanger footwell, is there anywhere in particular I need to attache the -ve cable? And I'm as certain as I can be that the +ve battery terminal in the boot is not in contact with the body.

If I get chance today, I will go down the "Wheelie" route of copious quantities of WD40 and patient manipualtion of lock & key.

The entire chassis of the car is -ve, just make sure you connect to a good clean metal surface (eg, metal bracket on engine block or similar). If there is something convenient in the passenger footwell I would use that.

Will
 
Update

Still cannot get mechanical key to work.

Tried connecting a battery via terminals under bonnet and earth to chassis. Partial success in that the lights worked but nothing else did. All that then happend was that the alarm went off and I could not stop it as the electronic key wouldn't work in the ignition.

The alarm has now stopped so that back-up battery is flat too!

Back to the dealership to get the electronic key re-coded as popular opinion is that the codes have gone west!

What a nightmare!!
 
The outcome......

Couldn't get the mechanical lock to work, nor could I get sufficient power to the car via the +ve cable under the bonnet.

Solution was to smash the off-side rear light cluster and connect the +ve battery terminal to a suitable power source. Hey presto, the car unlocked immediately via the remote fob.

There's a lesson in here somewhere..............!!!
 
cure for future ref

i have been working on my new stereo install this weekend, more of that another time, so whilst doing so needed to remove -ve terminal on battery, (w202) in boot. all going well until i felt the need for food!
i put all tools into boot closed all the doors and then closed the bootlid !
DOH! Oh my god what have i done!
this post came rushing back to me at the speed of light!
locked out!
after 1/2 hour or so thinking of the worst i checked here for answer, i couldnt dream of any physical damage to the car so i had to think again.
so here goes thankfully the car was open!

first step find a -ve contact on car, i used jumpleads to engine block
step two remove radio head unit, already out in my case
step three pinpoint common live wire ie, live without ignition
step four connect second jumplead to this with a little jiggery
step five connect jumpleads to spare battery
step six OPEN BOOT :bannana:

there you go an hours work for a seconds mistake
i now have cut a piece of wood to slot into boot latch so this doesnt happen again
 
didgit said:
i have been working on my new stereo install this weekend, more of that another time, so whilst doing so needed to remove -ve terminal on battery, (w202) in boot. all going well until i felt the need for food!
i put all tools into boot closed all the doors and then closed the bootlid !
DOH! Oh my god what have i done!
this post came rushing back to me at the speed of light!
locked out!
after 1/2 hour or so thinking of the worst i checked here for answer, i couldnt dream of any physical damage to the car so i had to think again.
so here goes thankfully the car was open!

first step find a -ve contact on car, i used jumpleads to engine block
step two remove radio head unit, already out in my case
step three pinpoint common live wire ie, live without ignition
step four connect second jumplead to this with a little jiggery
step five connect jumpleads to spare battery
step six OPEN BOOT :bannana:

there you go an hours work for a seconds mistake
i now have cut a piece of wood to slot into boot latch so this doesnt happen again


Why not just connect to the battery +ve post in the engine bay??
 
the engine was the first thing that the jumplead would reach to if it was longer would have done as you suggest
 

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