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Broke my locking Wheel Nut!

On reflection heating probably wouldnt help on bolts in the same way as it does on nuts ...... Reach for the big drill !
 
Just forget about trying to preserve the bolts and nuts and get them taken off permanently. Are your alloys so expensive and new that they are worth protecting? How much hassle can you bear!
 
manages to get 2 nuts open..

the rear is slipping and the key is not catching the nut! its just too tight..

now im in a pickle!

going to try another shop to see if they can brake it...
 
Its basically down to the quality of the removal tool steel in comparison to the steel of the locking nut and how tight it is. After that its down to the judicious application of brute force---- often multiple shock impacts are more useful than sheer torque which may just shear the bolt. Localised heat application may help break stiction if the bolt is heated and then cooled. Look for a garage used to working on 4x4s and commercials as well as cars as they tend to be expert in the application of brute force.;)
 
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I see Hometyre qualify their service to eliminate overtightening which is what you seem to have. Mind you dont waste your money.
I think I would give heat a go plus the usual tightening and loosening but I did once have to have bolts drilled out as the only solution apart from taking an angle grinder to the wheels !
 
Right, they managed to get that one off - took an hour!

he eventually figured out the nut has a large ring around the locking, this was stopping a socket going over the nut..was little difficult to see as its deep in the hole.

..so once he got the ring off using a screw driver \ hammer he was able to knock a socket onto the nut and twist it open..sounds easy but this was the bit that took the longest..

Charged me a tenner...:-)

also glad i went to MB to buy the key..as it helped to get the other 3 nuts off..

total cost was £40 including the key
 
Hmm, must check my nuts and make sure they're not too tight:-)
 
So i went to a tyre shop to get my rear tyre changed..

The guy broke my locking wheel nut! said its too tight.. :wallbash: he goes "Sorry Sir, i suggest you go to a main dealer get this fixed and come back for your tyre"

Anyway..

i have to now find someone that will brake my nuts on all 4 wheels - so that i can get the bloody tyre changed..

I am soo ******!
I have endured just this problem, and the MB dealer said he would have to order a new lug bolt key from outer mongolia (or somewhere).
I used a long socket and drone it onto the lock nut; of course, it just spun (as it would) so I put the tip of an arc welder into the lock nut, via the 1/2 in drive hole, and tacked the collar and the nut together. On the first lock nut, I had to try more than once. The good news is that the heat helped to ease out the lug bolt.
 
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I have endured just this problem, and the MB dealer said he would have to order a new lug bolt key from outer mongolia (or somewhere).
I used a long socket and drone it onto the lock nut; of course, it just spun (as it would) so I put the tip of an arc welder into the lock nut, via the 1/2 in drive hole, and tacked the collar and the nut together. On the first lock nut, I had to try more than once. The good news is that the heat helped to ease out the lug bolt.
An an ordinary lug bolt costs NZ$4.80 (about two pounds), so a happy outcome.
 
If i have posted this that many times now . The keys used on the locking wheel nuts are made of green cheese .And anyone that has these locking nuts on their car alloys, remove them, and bin them, before you get stranded on the side of the road on a very wet night with a flat you can not change , because the inside the key as broken off inside
 

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I've used that sort for years....have them now and my wife has them on her A Class. They work perfectly fine if the wheel nuts are the correct torque and not been wound on with a air tool....or the Hulk. I can understand why people without torque wrench overdo the torque though....when using the torque wrench the 120nm required on my car feels like not a lot more than the weight of the wrench!!! Over tightening is rather more dangerous than under tightening them though. If they are too loose you get a fair bit or warning as the wheels rattle on the hubs before coming off.....too tight and BANG...the wheels gone!
 
I've used that sort for years....have them now and my wife has them on her A Class. They work perfectly fine if the wheel nuts are the correct torque and not been wound on with a air tool....or the Hulk.
To a certain extent I agree, over tightening certainly won't help, but they also rust and if they are many years old, they tend to snap off, and as said at the most inopportune moment, got no locking wheel nuts on mine, for years with no problems, unless you park down a dark alley, or deserted industrial estate somewhere you very very unlikely to get your wheels nicked.
 
Agreed....unless you have very special or expensive after market wheels, alloy theft seems to be a thing of the past. Years ago when I first started selling cars even Golf GTIs did not have alloys as was the case on some quite expensive cars (Mercs included)....so then alloy theft to replace pauper spec tin wheels was common place!!!
 
Alfa you have a good set, then they have never seen daylight or been used . You ask the tire shops about them , and the garages, because they also find them NBG when they need to get the wheels off . . First time i went to change a wheel i had problems and had to call the RAC at 11-30pm at night . In the end i was transported to a 24 hour garage . They are no good,,and i know.
 
First thing I take off is the locking nuts. To be honest I’m rather hoping someone nicks the 19’s off the A207, the ride is shocking!
 

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