C124 hit a hundred K today..

[BillyW124]

...anyone able to give any pointers of what i should be now checking for possible replacement bits and bobs for this milage on my C124?

Stuff that could be knackering or should now be replaced..

cheers!

 

[WDB124066]

Speedo cable to start with Billy.

 

[BillyW124]

Speedo cable to start with Billy.

LOL what wrong with the speedo cable!!

i do get that bounce from 0 to 30 mph though, but thats just a comon thing on these 124's isn't it?

 

[WDB124066]

Mostly. Needs re routing or maybe it has a kink. IIRC you DO NOT lube these.

You might want to look at replacing all suspension rubber at that mileage, or what ever has not been replaced already. Sub-frame mounts and rear links as well as the front LCA bushes and top strut mounts. It's expensive Billy especially if you go the MB Genuine path, but at 100,000 miles the rear will be wondering around even if you don't think you're noticing.


At the very least get the ARB bushes replaced, again, don't use lubricant on these.

Get your steering box adjusted properly, it will help it point better into corners even if the rear protests till mid way around when it comes too with a twitch.......

 

[J4GG4]

Oh the big 100...

If theres no faults you can notice dont worry?

If worried take it into a indie to check it over for wear and tear?

 

[trapperjohn]

Just a small celebation required and look forward to the next 100K+

Safe Journeys

CHEERS

 

[BillyW124]

Just a small celebation required and look forward to the next 100K+

Safe Journeys

CHEERS

Exactly, but there was a moment of '' as it reached it LOL!

 

[BillyW124]

The following is a list of things i have done since owning it.

I think from here it would be easier to fill in the gaps as to what stuff might be needed to be done:

• 92.485miles

New front lower arms and new front track rod ends fitted

• 1st service @ 92,701

• New thermostat
• Sparkplugs changed
• Fan belt changed
• Change of air filters oil filter and fuel filter (couldn’t manage to locate pollen filter on this model)
• 5 ½ lit Mobil 1 10-40 grade oil change
• New Oil filler cap
• ATF oil flush with new ATF oil change
• New oil sump gasket
• Gear box filter
• Full flush of cooling system and new coolant mixture added
• New battery fitted
• New wiper blade

• @ 97.005miles

New rear shocks with new rear control arms thrust arms, camber arms and links fitted together with new rear sub frame mounts front and rear. Shim pads changed to new 1bump front and 3bump rear

• 2nd service @ 97,415

• Engine oil flush

1. Oil filter
2. 5 ½ lit of Castrol magnatec oil 10-40
3. 3lit of power steering oil
4. Power steering filter
5. Brakes bled
6. 2lit of new brake fluid added
7. Throttle Body Cleaned and new spring fitted
8. Adjustment of front wheel bearings
9. Boot lid adjusted to sit correctly on RH side
10. The instrument light in cluster (failed light) fixed. Bulbs all checked for correct wattage.
Drainage holes checked and cleared RH side wall drain


Checks performed in this service:

1. OVP (Over voltage protection behind batt) OK
2. Condition of engine wiring harness. Is the housing burnt/perishing? In good condition
3. Check hoses/brake hoses/vacumn lines etc OK
4. Are water pumps and fuel pumps in good order? OK
5. Does the handbrake cable need tightening? OK
6. Is the steering box in good order? OK
7. Check all drainage holes for blockage Cleaned jams
8. Check engine belts OK
9. Drive Chain (does it need tightening?) OK (apperntly no need to change nor tighten)
10. Oil Leaks anywhere (rear diff and near gear box) OK
11. Does the accelerator cable need tightening? OK
12. Check Oil pressure. Good engine oil pressure needle shows 3 bar when throttle is applied drops down just below 3 bar when idle.

next service is due this year November 2011

i had a compression test carried out and all four cylinders have very good compression.​

Things to do:​

engine mounts
gearbox mounts
manifold leak (snapped bolt on exit manifold bottom last)
new exaust system stainless steel/ or original MB
fuel pump, water pump, oil pumps maybe?
Grease wiper mechanism.
MAF,
Lambda
Bilstein B6’s with H&R’s/new top mounts
Eibach ARB’s with front and rear and bushes.
Steering damper
recondition steering box and gear box
diff oil???
IR lock set change, entire kit sourced.
treat jacking points, and all other unseen corrosion after checking after removal of wings, cladding front and rear bumpers.

Things done:

· All new cluster bulbs fitted. Centre console wood dash trim replaced to match existing interior and Gear shift lever changed to match interior wood trim. Replaced side and centre heater flap bulbs

· Mercedes Bonnet emblem badge replaced with original star.

· w202 leather steering wheel with matching wood trim fitted. Additionally sourced original chrome starred airbag.

· New original RH Mercedes window regulator fitted

· New Outside LCD temp display changed along with new temp thermometer fitted.

· New front headlamps fitted

· New side repeaters and brand new Maystar antenna fitted.

· Under body of vehicle Waxoyl treated.

• Illuminated vanity mirrors fitted and armrest changed

• Dimming rear view mirror installation

• Replaced replica wheels and fitted original AMG II 18x8 J ET31 alloys with Falken 215/40 R18 tyres. Four wheel geo tracking done.

• Front rear and windscreens with new seals from MB:

 

[grober]

Renew the evaporative control charcoal filter behind the front wing- [never done even by the main dealers!] Apart from the steering box check the box mounting bolts torque ----then check all the ball joints on the steering linkage [ there are 6!] Renew the batteries in the remote locking key.
Check the condition of the centre propshaft bearing its flexible mount and the propshaft flexible couplings. Check the small shock absorber bushes on the poly V belt tensioner for play. Check the viscous coupling for correct temperature "cut in point" after gently cleaning it from road grime- old tooth brush is good for this. Renew if in any doubt.

 

[BillyW124]

Renew the evaporative control charcoal filter behind the front wing- [never done even by the main dealers!] Apart from the steering box check the box mounting bolts torque ----then check all the ball joints on the steering linkage [ there are 6!] Renew the batteries in the remote locking key.
Check the condition of the centre propshaft bearing its flexible mount and the propshaft flexible couplings. Check the small shock absorber bushes on the poly V belt tensioner for play. Check the viscous coupling for correct temperature "cut in point" after gently cleaning it from road grime- old tooth brush is good for this. Renew if in any doubt.

Thank you very much Graeme,

yes I am going to change the charcoal filter when i get the wings off to seal up the lips that i rolled to fit the new wheels.

as the wings are in good condition and corrosion free (replaced by previous owner) im going to stay on top of it all and get them treated along with the inner skins of the car.

what exactaly does the charcoal evap aectually do?

any views on diff oil?

 

[grober]

The idea of the charcoal filter is to absorb volatile fuel fumes from the fuel tank rather than let them evaporate into the atmosphere via an open vent. The fumes are trapped on the charcoal filter. They are then evacuated via manifold vacuum and are burnt in the engine. This evacuation is controlled by the engine ECU which opens a solenoid valve [ mounted on the inner wing] under certain operating conditions. Eventually the charcoal filter gets choked with material that can't be easily removed and the system stops operating correctly. This can cause a vacuum to build up in the fuel tank leading to poor running. The other problem [more common] are leaks in the vacuum lines[ or their rubber joint pipes] between the manifold and filter this can lead to erratic idling due to an air leak into the manifold. Some folks argue changing the filter is unnecessary but it does make you check the EVAP system. Anecdotal evidence indicates the charcoal filter is more likely to choke if you " brim" the tank rather than stop at the first petrol pump nozzle flow "check"

As far as hypoid oils are concerned anything that meets Hypoid gear oils (SAE 90, 85 W-90, Specification 235.0 will be fine http://bevo.mercedes-benz.com/bevol...th=bevolisten&blatt=235.0&content_action=show

unless you have a ASD differential! then you need a different fluid altogether!

 

[BillyW124]

i'll change this when the wings are off, when you mention it works under some operating conditions, theres a little black device that says MOT on it mounted on left hand side, around where the alarm siren sits, this usually ticks/vibrates away when you touch it. is this part of the evac system?

also is changing diff oil nessasary? along with their mountings?

 

[BillyW124]

..i have no ASD!

may look to change the diff oil if ppl think it should be done or still at a higher milage.

With regards to the evap tank, if the symptoms occur that you mention, is this easily solved by changing this, or would it mean it would cause some sort of permanant damage in some way if its not sorted sooner rather than later?

 

[grober]

i'll change this when the wings are off, when you mention it works under some operating conditions, theres a little black device that says MOT on it mounted on left hand side, around where the alarm siren sits, this usually ticks/vibrates away when you touch it. is this part of the evac system?

also is changing diff oil nessasary? along with their mountings?

That's the solenoid valve correct.

Changing the diff oil/ Well its one of these debatable things. Older diffs almost all weep a bit of fluid- usually out the front pinion seal- nothing to worry about just check the level periodically. If you want " everything right"then does no harm to renew it -- doesn't cost that much BUT make sure you can loosen off the filler/level plug before opening the drain plug. You may need to use some form of syringe/flexible filler pipe to introduce the new oil since access is limited.
As far as diff mounts are concerned I would leave alone unless you are experiencing problems or they are heavily saturated with oil which tends to soften them.

 

[BillyW124]

...Again Graeme your knowledgeable brain as always working wonders!:bannana:

right so am i right in assuming if diff mounts are on their way out i would be feeling some vibration of some sort? i.e. the stuff you would feel if say an engine mount or gear box mount was shot?

how would you tell?

and you said check the diff oil level, is there some sort of dip stick, as you also mentioned oil filler/level plug..

sorry for all the questions!

 

[grober]

Worn/soft differential mounts usually reveal themselves at times of changes of torque transfer= on -off throttle. Usually these would be in the form of "clonking" noises from the rear end. As far as diff oil is concerned the fill/level plug is exactly that = the differential is filled to the point it overflows thro the level plug- you can check for lower levels with a bent piece of wire thro the level plug a short section of 2.5mm "twin and earth" red wire is ideal. Obviously this level check or filling the differential should be done on level ground.

 

[BillyW124]

Can anybody supply me with part numbers/price for the following:

Charcoal filter
engine mounts
gearbox mounts

My VIN is WDB1240422C228694

cheers.

 

[WDB124066]

Do you get a little click from the rear when shifting from reverse to drive.....

 

[BillyW124]

Do you get a little click from the rear when shifting from reverse to drive.....

Possibly.....actually come to think of it im pretty sure it does. What does this mean if it is doing so?

 

[WDB124066]

It could be the links in the rear letting you know they are suffering from age.......