Ctek mxs 5 charger.

[Deleted member 126251]

The flyleads are useful where there's no direct access to the battery (or remote terminals). The one in my SL is behind a trim panel in the boot, so I do use a permanently fitted flylead on that.:

View attachment 135549

But I've never bothered on anything else.

I just use the jump start posts inder the bonnet as recommended in my owners manual. Flyleads would be useful if I could not easily access the jumpstart posts.

 

[Deleted member 126251]

Different battery chemistries have different requirements for storage / charge / discharge if you want to achieve maximum lifespan. Wet lead/acid batteries in particular definitely benefit from being kept fully charged - they are supplied and stored that way before fitting, and leaving them standing partially charged for any length of time causes degradation. Of course plenty of them aren't kept fully charged in day to day use ... which is why they fail prematurely. People accept replacing batteries every 3-5 years as normal, yet the one in my SL (kept on a maintenance charger) is still going strong after 19+ years.

My wife’s B-class in now going on 9 years old on the original battery. However it gets regular use on trips that will have enough time to top the battery up.

Day to day short trips (200 yards to the school and back ) are the killer.

 

[Deleted member 126251]

duplicate

 

[BTB 500]

Flyleads would be useful if I could not easily access the jumpstart posts.

Also useful for older cars like my SL that don't have them

 

[BTB 500]

My wife’s B-class in now going on 9 years old on the original battery. However it gets regular use on trips that will have enough time to top the battery up.

Day to day short trips (200 yards to the school and back ) are the killer.

For sure.

Our 2007 Vito is also still on the original battery. I did spec. the 'high capacity' option though, so any discharge is a smaller percentage of the capacity than would be the case with the standard size.

I also think it helps being old enough to have driven cars with centre-zero ammeters, where it's obvious that at idle the alternator isn't putting out enough current to cover high drain electrical items (lights, HRW, heated seats, etc.). A lot of people believe that as long as the engine is running the battery is charging, which really isn't the case.

 

[Deleted member 126251]

For sure.

Our 2007 Vito is also still on the original battery. I did spec. the 'high capacity' option though, so any discharge is a smaller percentage of the capacity than would be the case with the standard size.

I also think it helps being old enough to have driven cars with centre-zero ammeters, where it's obvious that at idle the alternator isn't putting out enough current to cover high drain electrical items (lights, HRW, heated seats, etc.). A lot of people believe that as long as the engine is running the battery is charging, which really isn't the case.

That brought back memories! My mini only had the light (red for oil, yellow for battery charge??) no meter. I eventually installed the trio. Oil Pressure, Ammeter and Water Temp.

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

I thought the C-tek discharges down to 95% now and then and then charges back up to full. I can't remember where I read that or may have been an older model.

I forget the percentages now, but that’s my understanding too.

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

Instructions say to turn the mains off first but there is absolutely no need to unplug it from the mains.

Like I said it would be good practice. When isolating equipment from power it’s good practice to provide a visible indicator that power has been isolated to reduce the risk of it being accidentally switched on. At home, unplugging is a reasonable step that takes a second or two. In practice though, even switching it off isn’t really required if appropriate care is taken, just a good idea to do so.

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

Different battery chemistries have different requirements for storage / charge / discharge if you want to achieve maximum lifespan. Wet lead/acid batteries in particular definitely benefit from being kept fully charged - they are supplied and stored that way before fitting, and leaving them standing partially charged for any length of time causes degradation. Of course plenty of them aren't kept fully charged in day to day use ... which is why they fail prematurely. People accept replacing batteries every 3-5 years as normal, yet the one in my SL (kept on a maintenance charger) is still going strong after 19+ years.

Strangely when i had a battery prematurely fail and well within warranty period, Tayna claimed that it had been caused by leaving it on hook up over winter, rather than removing the battery and charging on a bench.

It put me off them for a few years but this week I had to buy a 12v battery for an alarm back up and their service has been first rate - it’s actually been delayed but their comms have been excellent.

Interestingly both the battery manufacturer and alarm manufacturer quote a service life of 3-5 years for the 12v battery, at which point it must be replaced, despite being permanently being charged by the mains.

I can only assume that the charging cycles are very basic and it’s charging at a constant rate which is enough to keep some charge in the battery, but not necessarily to prolong it’s life.

CTEK confirmed this week that small 12v batteries can be charged on motorcycle mode, but to keep a close eye on it. Unfortunately it’s an AGM so I don’t think that I’ll be able to regenerate it.

 

[190]

Modern cars with smart alternators only attempt to charge a battery to 80% before reducing the charging voltage to approx.12.8 volts, to save fuel and leave capacity for charging at a higher rate on the overrun. By now it must be all new cars that take this approach so I wonder if battery chemistry has been modified to make batteries more tolerant of sitting at 80% charge instead of 100%. I've not heard that they have or even if it's possible to make them more tolerant, so I fully charge mine once a week to give it the best chance of a long life.

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

I use the crocodile clips on the charging post beneath the bonnet on cars with batteries fitted beneath seats. Those batteries are a monkey to get to in order to fit the permanent connectors.

For those with batteries in the engine compartment or with a charging post which has the ability to fit the permanent connectors then I do as it’s a more elegant and safer solution.

I would like to Magcode connectors fitted to the outside of all cars, but I’d really need an auto electrician to come out and do them all as a job lot really, but I don’t know one who I’d trust to cut trim, etc.

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

Modern cars with smart alternators only attempt to charge a battery to 80% before reducing the charging voltage to approx.12.8 volts, to save fuel and leave capacity for charging at a higher rate on the overrun. By now it must be all new cars that take this approach so I wonder if battery chemistry has been modified to make batteries more tolerant of sitting at 80% charge instead of 100%. I've not heard that they have or even if it's possible to make them more tolerant, so I fully charge mine once a week to give it the best chance of a long life.

I haven’t either although AGM is now widespread because of stop-start - I wonder whether what you describe was considered as part of that transition, it’s just less tangible.

 

[Deleted member 126251]

Like I said it would be good practice. When isolating equipment from power it’s good practice to provide a visible indicator that power has been isolated to reduce the risk of it being accidentally switched on. At home, unplugging is a reasonable step that takes a second or two. In practice though, even switching it off isn’t really required if appropriate care is taken, just a good idea to do so.

Perhaps we should start using lockout tongs.

I do unplug stuff if I’m going to be working on mains power .i.e. I would not disassemble an electric (mains) fan without first removing the plug from the socket. But connecting the crocodile clips LV side of a charger nah....switch it off.

However, I spent my career working in a safety obsessed industry and agree - better safe than sorry.

 

[350cls]

Just as a slight aside, I wouldn't be messing about with crocodile clips. Far easier to use a CTEK flying lead permanently attached to the battery, so you simply plug and unplug as needed. Avoids potential problems with croc clips touching where they shouldn't!

I appreciate the advice, can you have the flying lead attached to the battery when the car is being used/driven. I don't find it to annoying removing the croc clamps to be honest. I remove the neg with one hand then the positive with the other, the device is also unplugged at this stage. So it's very unlikely I will cause an issue with the croc clamps. My car is also outside down the side of the house. It's not garaged or indoor. When I put it on. I attach the positive lead to the positive terminal under the bonnet then attach the negative clamp to the negative type brass fitting under the bonnet. Then I plug the charger in and close the bonnet to its latched but not fully closed position.

I can't remember if my battery is on the passenger side engine bay under the air dam box or in the boot. It's fine this way. But appreciate the advice.

 

[leef44]

Modern cars with smart alternators only attempt to charge a battery to 80% before reducing the charging voltage to approx.12.8 volts, to save fuel and leave capacity for charging at a higher rate on the overrun. By now it must be all new cars that take this approach so I wonder if battery chemistry has been modified to make batteries more tolerant of sitting at 80% charge instead of 100%. I've not heard that they have or even if it's possible to make them more tolerant, so I fully charge mine once a week to give it the best chance of a long life.

This would explain why after taking the car for a run when the battery was full that it is only at 80% charge when I connect it again.

I use a C-tek mxs-7. It has four lights on the battery status. The third light means 80% charged.

 

[rf065]

I appreciate the advice,

It might help if you read this and then you can understand what the lights are actually telling you as there are 8 stages of charging in these chargers. Review of CTEK MXS 5.0 Car Battery Charger - The Car Stuff

Also, regarding the flying leads, which are attached permanently, CTEK do one with red/yellow & green LED's which tells you at a glance what condition your battery is in every time you open the bonnet to check the oil or such. It can give you advance warning that the battery needs a charge before you find out the hard way.

 

[350cls]

It might help if you read this and then you can understand what the lights are actually telling you as there are 8 stages of charging in these chargers. Review of CTEK MXS 5.0 Car Battery Charger - The Car Stuff

Also, regarding the flying leads, which are attached permanently, CTEK do one with red/yellow & green LED's which tells you at a glance what condition your battery is in every time you open the bonnet to check the oil or such. It can give you advance warning that the battery needs a charge before you find out the hard way.

Good man yourself

 

[AMGeed]

I appreciate the advice, can you have the flying lead attached to the battery when the car is being used/driven.

Yes the fly lead can be attached to the battery whilst being driven without any problem.

 

[350cls]

Not sure what all the fuss is about, only have to add and remove two croc clamps every time. It's a 2 minutes job at worse rate, when the croc clamps and 3 pin plug decide to glue to eachother

 

[oldguy57]

I appreciate the advice, can you have the flying lead attached to the battery when the car is being used/driven. I don't find it to annoying removing the croc clamps to be honest. I remove the neg with one hand then the positive with the other, the device is also unplugged at this stage. So it's very unlikely I will cause an issue with the croc clamps. My car is also outside down the side of the house. It's not garaged or indoor. When I put it on. I attach the positive lead to the positive terminal under the bonnet then attach the negative clamp to the negative type brass fitting under the bonnet. Then I plug the charger in and close the bonnet to its latched but not fully closed position.

I can't remember if my battery is on the passenger side engine bay under the air dam box or in the boot. It's fine this way. But appreciate the advice.

Whatever you're comfortable with. I like to keep things simple as I age rapidly so plugging and unplugging a 2 pin plug suits me.