Ctek mxs 5 charger.

[350cls]

Whatever you're comfortable with. I like to keep things simple as I age rapidly so plugging and unplugging a 2 pin plug suits me.

The under bonnet positive and negative jump start terminals on my car are easily accessible than that of the battery so all told the croc clamps are just as quick.

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

I appreciate the advice, can you have the flying lead attached to the battery when the car is being used/driven.

It’s absolutely fine to do that with the eyelet connectors, it’s what they’re designed to do, that is to remain situ permanently. They use a small bolt on the battery terminal to secure the charging cable in place and ensure that it doesn’t become disconnected and make contact with the body or other components whilst driving.

I have driven a car with the crocodile clips still attached under the bonnets - but with the comfort connector disconnected - although it’s not a good idea. Crocodile clips are designed to be quickly connected and disconnected, and so they aren’t secured by anything more than the relatively weak resistance of a spring. They could easily pop off and make contact with the body or other component whilst driving.

 

[bolidemichael]

It might help if you read this and then you can understand what the lights are actually telling you as there are 8 stages of charging in these chargers. Review of CTEK MXS 5.0 Car Battery Charger - The Car Stuff

Also, regarding the flying leads, which are attached permanently, CTEK do one with red/yellow & green LED's which tells you at a glance what condition your battery is in every time you open the bonnet to check the oil or such. It can give you advance warning that the battery needs a charge before you find out the hard way.

I have an indicator LED fitted (which is also a female mating connector for the CTEK 5.0 charger) -- I was actually going to ask about this, as it isn't uncommon for it to indicate orange very soon after the charger is disconnected (having fully charged, as indicatedon the charger) and then flashing red after a short period of disuse, often after a good long run. So I don't really trust it, at all.

 

[BTB 500]

I have an indicator LED fitted (which is also a female mating connector for the CTEK 5.0 charger) -- I was actually going to ask about this, as it isn't uncommon for it to indicate orange very soon after the charger is disconnected (having fully charged, as indicatedon the charger) and then flashing red after a short period of disuse, often after a good long run. So I don't really trust it, at all.

Put a meter on the battery terminals and check the actual voltage. The 'analyse' function on the MXS 5.0 (step 5) is quite rudimentary ... it just checks to see if the battery drops below 12.0V within 3 mins of the charge finishing (which would suggest a battery has had it, basically).

 

[190]

Put a meter on the battery terminals and check the actual voltage. The 'analyse' function on the MXS 5.0 (step 5) is quite rudimentary ... it just checks to see if the battery drops below 12.0V within 3 mins of the charge finishing (which would suggest a battery has had it, basically).

But if using a meter, wait a couple of hours after the charger is disconnected before measuring the voltage.

Due to the surface charge effect, a battery just off charge will read a misleadingly high voltage, probably over 13 volts if the battery is in good condition and fully charged. It takes several hours for the surface charge to dissipate in order to obtain a true reading.

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

I have an indicator LED fitted (which is also a female mating connector for the CTEK 5.0 charger) -- I was actually going to ask about this, as it isn't uncommon for it to indicate orange very soon after the charger is disconnected (having fully charged, as indicatedon the charger) and then flashing red after a short period of disuse, often after a good long run. So I don't really trust it, at all.

I’ve found the same. I leave it visible even when the car is not on charge. A start or two is enough to knock it off green LED, regardless of how old the car or battery is. That said, the red LED serves as a reminder to pop it back on charge, even if technically it has plenty of life left in it.

 

[rf065]

I have an indicator LED fitted (which is also a female mating connector for the CTEK 5.0 charger) -- I was actually going to ask about this, as it isn't uncommon for it to indicate orange very soon after the charger is disconnected (having fully charged, as indicatedon the charger) and then flashing red after a short period of disuse, often after a good long run. So I don't really trust it, at all.

Not my experience at all, I'd be more concerned about the health of your battery if that's what's happening.
Only other thing is if you've just switched something on, then all the systems in the car wake up and draw power, best advice is waiting 30 minutes until all the systems are asleep again before looking at the LED's.

 

[350cls]

It’s absolutely fine to do that with the eyelet connectors, it’s what they’re designed to do, that is to remain situ permanently. They use a small bolt on the battery terminal to secure the charging cable in place and ensure that it doesn’t become disconnected and make contact with the body or other components whilst driving.

I have driven a car with the crocodile clips still attached under the bonnets - but with the comfort connector disconnected - although it’s not a good idea. Crocodile clips are designed to be quickly connected and disconnected, and so they aren’t secured by anything more than the relatively weak resistance of a spring. They could easily pop off and make contact with the body or other component whilst driving.

I'll have to look into attaching the eyelet connectors, but the location on my battery, I'm not sure will the lead come out under the battery cover and reach the push pin plug. If they eyelet lead is that same length as the croc clips lead I might not have enough lead. But I will look. Into this. But I dont intend to drive with the croc clips in place anyhow. Unless I forget they were attached and reversed out not realising. This wouldn't happen anyway as I would have the bonnet open warning appear on the dash. I hope

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

I'll have to look into attaching the eyelet connectors, but the location on my battery, I'm not sure will the lead come out under the battery cover and reach the push pin plug. If they eyelet lead is that same length as the croc clips lead I might not have enough lead. But I will look. Into this. But I dont intend to drive with the croc clips in place anyhow. Unless I forget they were attached and reversed out not realising. This wouldn't happen anyway as I would have the bonnet open warning appear on the dash. I hope

You can buy an extension lead which has a male comfort connector at one end and a female at the other, which enables you to have your connection point wherever you want it, even if the actual location is hard to reach.

You don’t have to leave your bonnet open either. Exit the engine bay from the rear, where you’ll find that there’s a rubber seal running along the leading edge of the scuttle panel. This is soft and deep enough to “absorb” the cable when you close the bonnet.

 

[350cls]

You can buy an extension lead which has a male comfort connector at one end and a female at the other, which enables you to have your connection point wherever you want it, even if the actual location is hard to reach.

You don’t have to leave your bonnet open either. Exit the engine bay from the rear, where you’ll find that there’s a rubber seal running along the leading edge of the scuttle panel. This is soft and deep enough to “absorb” the cable when you close the bonnet.

Great news regarding the extension lead available for the ctek connections. The other issue I have is, my routed extension lead with is my 3 pin plug I have it routed underneath the facia of an outhouse/big shed, along the front of a garage down face of the wall with it sitting on the front on the engine bay. It's suited perfectly for this. I did intend to set the lead up exiting the rear of the engine bay but didn't like resting the 3 pin plug 240 socket on top of the wheel. The way I have it set up, the lead doesn't touch the ground at all.

 

[Bobby Dazzler]

Great news regarding the extension lead available for the ctek connections. The other issue I have is, my routed extension lead with is my 3 pin plug I have it routed underneath the facia of an outhouse/big shed, along the front of a garage down face of the wall with it sitting on the front on the engine bay. It's suited perfectly for this. I did intend to set the lead up exiting the rear of the engine bay but didn't like resting the 3 pin plug 240 socket on top of the wheel. The way I have it set up, the lead doesn't touch the ground at all.

I do keep a car connected to a CTEK which is usually parked outside. I use a water resistant outdoor extension reel with sealed covers over the 3-pin sockets, and I tuck that up under the car face up.

I then either sit the CTEK on top of the offside tyre, which is sheltered by the wheel arch, or place it between the spokes of the wheel, which is again sheltered. The cable then routes up to the back of the bonnet.

 

[350cls]

I do keep a car connected to a CTEK which is usually parked outside. I use a water resistant outdoor extension reel with sealed covers over the 3-pin sockets, and I tuck that up under the car face up.

I then either sit the CTEK on top of the offside tyre, which is sheltered by the wheel arch, or place it between the spokes of the wheel, which is again sheltered. The cable then routes up to the back of the bonnet.

The w212 is rather low at the front. I place the Ctek under the bonnet on the front plastic housing above the cooling fan, covered from the elements under the bonnet. My extension lead is also a single socket.

 

[oldguy57]

I do keep a car connected to a CTEK which is usually parked outside. I use a water resistant outdoor extension reel with sealed covers over the 3-pin sockets, and I tuck that up under the car face up.

I then either sit the CTEK on top of the offside tyre, which is sheltered by the wheel arch, or place it between the spokes of the wheel, which is again sheltered. The cable then routes up to the back of the bonnet.

With one car parked outside I have all the mains lead and the charger in the garage and use a long CTEK extension lead to the battery. It feels safer to me but probably not much different in reality.

 

[BTB 500]

Long extension leads from the charger to the battery probably aren't ideal. At just 15V or so the voltage drop in a long & relatively thin cable run with several plug/socket joints *could* make a smart charger think the battery has a higher internal resistance than is actually the case. I would ideally try and put a mains outlet nearer the car instead (waterproof external socket box etc.), or failing that use a water-resistant mains lead as Bobby Dazzler mentioned.

Years ago I used a high-end 10A charger for the (Ni-Cd) battery packs in my r/c planes - with 'normal' output cables it always selected a lower charge rate. I had to switch to thick/short cables with top quality gold-plated connectors for it to work properly with the larger packs.

 

[350cls]

So my water resistant external use extension lead which runs about 7.5 to 8 meters in length, which is routed/shielded from the elements under the out building facia, from an outside use waterproof external socket with cover to the smart charger which runs to the positive and negative engine terminals. The only part of the thin lead as you mention is the Ctek lead which is located under the bonnet. If anything my set up has no thin/weakened lead exposed at all. My ctek thin lead isn't exposed at all.

 

[oldguy57]

Long extension leads from the charger to the battery probably aren't ideal. At just 15V or so the voltage drop in a long & relatively thin cable run with several plug/socket joints *could* make a smart charger think the battery has a higher internal resistance than is actually the case. I would ideally try and put a mains outlet nearer the car instead (waterproof external socket box etc.), or failing that use a water-resistant mains lead as Bobby Dazzler mentioned.

Years ago I used a high-end 10A charger for the (Ni-Cd) battery packs in my r/c planes - with 'normal' output cables it always selected a lower charge rate. I had to switch to thick/short cables with top quality gold-plated connectors for it to work properly with the larger packs.

Yes I had thought of that and did experiment with various combinations of leads and there was no difference in voltage at the battery whilst being charged at least according to my voltmeter which only measures to a tenth of a volt though. But something to be borne in mind, I agree.

 

[Deleted member 126251]

Whatever you're comfortable with. I like to keep things simple as I age rapidly so plugging and unplugging a 2 pin plug suits me.

How old are you?

 

[Deleted member 126251]

......................

Years ago I used a high-end 10A charger for the (Ni-Cd) battery packs in my r/c planes - with 'normal' output cables it always selected a lower charge rate. I had to switch to thick/short cables with top quality gold-plated connectors for it to work properly with the larger packs.

Schulze? They always recommended short thick cables. We learned a lot about batteries from the early days of electric powered RC planes. I learned how to ruin a car battery.

 

[Skd884]

My charger owned for decades and works a treat -

 

[BTB 500]

Schulze? They always recommended short thick cables. We learned a lot about batteries from the early days of electric powered RC planes. I learned how to ruin a car battery.

Yes, isl 8-936g. Great bit of kit, still got it and use it occasionally with external balancers or for charging my old Multiplex Tx on outlet 3 (low voltage). I had a caravan so there was always a spare leisure battery or two knocking about

Unfortunately the internal clock circuit has to be replaced every 10-12 years, and Matthias Schulze has completely retired now. I last had it done in 2016 ...

And the PC interface only worked on Windows XP