DIY brake discs and pads change

[gunshy]

Been meaning to sort my front brakes out for a little while and thought I'd pick the forums collective brain about it.

I'm pretty inexperienced when it comes to car maintenance. I've done bits infrequently, a few oil changes, changed the sump once, things like that. It was ages ago, but I have helped a mate change his brakes and bleed the brake system in his car. And I've got a couple of experienced contacts that can help me out.

I've decided to give it a go as it would be a good learning experience.

My car is a 2001 clk 55 AMG and, I'm pretty sure it doesn't have any SBC complications.

I've had a scan of the forums and found the following quite useful

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/wheels-tyres/60474-w220-needs-new-pads-discs-diy-not.html
Okay, the brake job... - MBWorld.org Forums
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/wheels-tyres/22662-changing-disks-pads-clk55-w208.html
http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/wheels-tyres/14735-quote-discs-pad-replacement.html

There's also an endless stream of videos on youtube covering all aspects of brake maintenance. I love the internet.

Going to do it over the hols so have plenty of time.

I've had a look at what the workshop manual (WIS) has to say and it calls for removing the caliper and brake hose completely. None of the other advice I've read says this and usually recommends leaving the brake caliper attached to to the brake system and use the bleeder valve to release brake fluid pressure whilst compressing the caliper piston. Despite that, I'm thinking complete removal might be the way to go, because with caliper detached, I can give at a good clean and maybe replace the hoses whilst I'm at it.

Maybe there's a lot there for a novice like me, but this is going to be a little project for me over the hols. Hoping that the extra time, and a little help from more experienced friends will see me through.

General comments are welcome, but I have a few specific questions.

The workshop manual recommends replacing a 'micro-encapsulated bolt'. I think micro-encapsulated means the bolts that are sealed with a locking compound, so that would be the bolts that hold the caliper holder to the err.. thingy? So they're single use? I couldn't figure out what the part number is for this, perhaps I'm just looking at EPC wrong, but I just can't tell which one it is. Or is it just a standard bolt size, or maybe they come with the brake pad kit?

I was going to the do the brake sensors as well. Eurocarparts has some listed as 'Pagid Brake Sensor'. I'm guessing these will fit in OEM pads?

Any comments and tips would be much appreciated. I'll try and keep notes on what I did and post some pics up on the forum when I'm doing it.

 

[wemorgan]

Lady luck often goes against me when changing brake discs and the disc retaining screw is often stuck. If you force it you risk rounding it off then you'll have to drill it out. So for those times an impact driver can be useful.

As seen here

[YOUTUBE]YxQk7Pz_vfc[/YOUTUBE]

 

[pstock]

gunshy
for sheer ease if you dont need new discs i'd leave the caliper on (for safety a length of wire to hold it up out the way its handy attach the wire to the suspension strut)(for a 2001 the hoses should be in good condition) and it is a must when pushing the caliper "pot" back into the caliper body allow any fluid through the bleed nipple, if you force the fliud back through the system you run the risk of damaging the ABS and assosiated components if you go to your local motor factor purchase a "one way bleeding system" bit of tubing with a one way valve so when bleeding the system it allows fluid through but when you release the brake peddle no air enters the system ( but id still submerse the end in clean fluid in a jam/coffee jar) dont bother with an all singing all dancing system which uses your spare wheel as a pressure supply. as for the cleaning of the calliper either a wire brush or one which fits your drill will do a good job with patients. as for the replacment of the bolt me i'd clean the threads up with afore mentioned wire brush and refit with some thread lock to what ever the specified torque is (or just FT ) I apologise if im waffling on about things you already know but when it comes to brake you can never be too carefull

 

[Cen]

PStock have given you sound advice and I agree the bolts will be fine with a little locktight or simular when replacing. Check hoses visually however, they should be fine. Its annoying that manufacturers use poxi / phillip head countersunk bolts to hold the discs on which often require drilling out.

It happened to me recently when changing the discs on her indoors MX5 an impact driver would not touch the bolts so I was forced to drill a small hole through the centre and revert to screww extractors which was quite easy. However, I replaced with countersunk bolts with allan key heads so that in the future at least you can insert a tool that you can place some leverage on. The countersunk bolts were purchased from screwfix

 

[jonnyboy]

I have to say if you are that inexperienced+its a high performance car, you should pay the hour/hour and a half's labour and get a professional to do it.
Just my two pen'th

 

[gunshy]

Lady luck often goes against me when changing brake discs and the disc retaining screw is often stuck. If you force it you risk rounding it off then you'll have to drill it out. So for those times an impact driver can be useful.

Thanks for the tip. Love the ericthecarguy videos.

 

[gunshy]

gunshy
for sheer ease if you dont need new discs i'd leave the caliper on (for safety a length of wire to hold it up out the way its handy attach the wire to the suspension strut)(for a 2001 the hoses should be in good condition) and it is a must when pushing the caliper "pot" back into the caliper body allow any fluid through the bleed nipple, if you force the fliud back through the system you run the risk of damaging the ABS and assosiated components if you go to your local motor factor purchase a "one way bleeding system" bit of tubing with a one way valve so when bleeding the system it allows fluid through but when you release the brake peddle no air enters the system ( but id still submerse the end in clean fluid in a jam/coffee jar) dont bother with an all singing all dancing system which uses your spare wheel as a pressure supply. as for the cleaning of the calliper either a wire brush or one which fits your drill will do a good job with patients. as for the replacment of the bolt me i'd clean the threads up with afore mentioned wire brush and refit with some thread lock to what ever the specified torque is (or just FT ) I apologise if im waffling on about things you already know but when it comes to brake you can never be too carefull

Thanks for the info, Ill keep the original bolts if they look good.

 

[gunshy]

PStock have given you sound advice and I agree the bolts will be fine with a little locktight or simular when replacing. Check hoses visually however, they should be fine. Its annoying that manufacturers use poxi / phillip head countersunk bolts to hold the discs on which often require drilling out.

It happened to me recently when changing the discs on her indoors MX5 an impact driver would not touch the bolts so I was forced to drill a small hole through the centre and revert to screww extractors which was quite easy. However, I replaced with countersunk bolts with allan key heads so that in the future at least you can insert a tool that you can place some leverage on. The countersunk bolts were purchased from screwfix

Thanks for the advice. Fingers crossed I wont have this problem.

 

[gunshy]

I have to say if you are that inexperienced+its a high performance car, you should pay the hour/hour and a half's labour and get a professional to do it.
Just my two pen'th

Thanks for the advice. I think I'll still go a head and try it myself though. I'm not that bothered about the money, just wanted to get some experience doing it myself and it's the only car I've got so it'll have to do. Not ideal, but I can get more experienced help if I need it.

 

[SilverSaloon]

well worth doing yourself if you can. make sure you clean the new brake discs with brake cleaner before fitting

 

[Chrishazle]

According to the VIN, my car only has the wear sensor on one side - so I only bought one when I bought the new discs and pads last year. Come to fit them - there's wear sensors both sides! Luckily managed to salvage one of the old ones for re-use.
My village garage only charged £50 to fit them. I did front discs and pads on my 968 earlier this year, first time I'd messed with disc brakes - should have paid the garage £50 to do it for me!

 

[gunshy]

well worth doing yourself if you can. make sure you clean the new brake discs with brake cleaner before fitting

Will do, thanks.

 

[Scott_F]

well worth doing yourself if you can. make sure you clean the new brake discs with brake cleaner before fitting

I'd also clean them after fitting once you've had your mucky fingers all over them.