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Engine timing and ATF

Ali E300TD

Active Member
Joined
May 12, 2007
Messages
115
Location
Islamabad-Pakistan
Car
W210 300TD om606.962
Hi Guys....

I'm new to this forum and im desperately in need of sum help. Im getting my car's motor overhauled soon and im not sure of the timing. So if any one can please tell me how to set the timing position for crank, cam and diesel pump. Secondly, my mechanic drained the atf and says that it should be replaced whereas i believe that the atf is for lifetime so if anyone can shed some light on this and tell me what time of atf and the quantity should i go for now that the atf is drained. i've already checked in the user manual but i couldn't find any thing on transmission fluid :confused: .

Any help will be greatly appreciated :bannana: .

Thanks.
 
The crank and cam are set at TDC and are marked. The IP is set using the port in the side of the pump body and the timing marks at the crank pulley. set to 14 deg ATDC.

The ATF is not lifetime fill, that was just a marketing excercise. Change at 50-60k miles.
 
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Thanx for your reply, Dieselman. Can you please let me know what type of ATF should i be using, grade and quantity? The car is a 98 E 300 TD with 606.962 motor not sure about the transmission. Would you know how i can check the transmission code?

Thanks!!:)
 
Filled for life or not - you are asking for big trouble if you replace previously drain fluid.
 
Transmission fluid from Mercedes (special synthetic blend with friction modifiers.)Have filter swapped too.

Bazzle
 
It NEEDS to be 7.5 litres of A001 989 210 310.

You also need a new filter and sump gasket, it's an easy job and has been covered here a few times, do a search.
Gasket p/n A140 271 00 80
Filter p/n A140 277 00 95

Your car has a torque converter drain plug so drain that as well, in fact the draining works best if you drain the TC first.

You will need the service dipstick to accurately refill the box p/n W140 589 152 100
 
????????????????

Not sure what you find complicated but ....

The OP suggested that the ATF had been drained , and whilst ambiguous , there was some suggestion of refilling with the old fluid . (whereas i believe that the atf is for lifetime) -
If the box has been drained , then the question is unnecessary , unless of course he was suggesting its reuse - thus my warning.
 
Thanx guys...

This job is not complicated at all... the thing is i live in a contry where there are only two Merc mechanics in my city outside the dealership and they know more than the dealership and on top of that i am new to mercedes . The dealership hardly has any parts in stock so thats why i am looking for the grade (specs) of the ATF i should be using as i might have to look for it in the open market. I just bought my car with 45K kms on the clock and i am geting the motor overhauled as the previous owner must have not paid much attention to the engine oil.

Dieselman, if you can please elaborate the whole process of setting up the timings. My mechanic is alot more familier with older merc motors like the 300SD turbo diesels and all. And i reckon he doesnt really know how to set up the timings for this motor; although he will never say that he doesnt know.:D

And NO i dont intend to reuse the old drain atf.
 
There is nothing radically different between the 300 multivalve engine and previous 300 diesel engines.
This engine has twin camshafts where the exhaust cam is chain driven and the intake cam is gear driven off the exhaust cam.
As long as the timing marks atre aligned there shouldn't be a problem.

The IP timing is via the port in the rear side of the pump where there is a pointer that spins round as the pump rotates. Align the pointer with the centre of the port with the crank set to 14 deg ATDC.

There is a proper locking tool for locking the pointer and another for checking the timing.

I would try to use MB ATF as it has been designed specifically for that gearbox.

I can't believe your engine is trashed so soon, what's wrong with it?
 
Thanx guys...

This job is not complicated at all... the thing is i live in a contry where there are only two Merc mechanics in my city outside the dealership and they know more than the dealership and on top of that i am new to mercedes . The dealership hardly has any parts in stock so thats why i am looking for the grade (specs) of the ATF i should be using as i might have to look for it in the open market. I just bought my car with 45K kms on the clock and i am geting the motor overhauled as the previous owner must have not paid much attention to the engine oil.

Dieselman, if you can please elaborate the whole process of setting up the timings. My mechanic is alot more familier with older merc motors like the 300SD turbo diesels and all. And i reckon he doesnt really know how to set up the timings for this motor; although he will never say that he doesnt know.:D

And NO i dont intend to reuse the old drain atf.

I can't believe it either - 28000 miles and stuffed ?

I'd also be a bit worried about a mechanic who couldn't find out the IP and cam timings . Is there anything else that he doesn't know about ?.......
 
I can't believe it either - 28000 miles and stuffed ?

I'd also be a bit worried about a mechanic who couldn't find out the IP and cam timings . Is there anything else that he doesn't know about ?.......

Probably got lack of compression from bore polishing due to all the junk in the oil. Sometimes a run of glazebusting oil fixes this and a load of flat out thrashes up some very steep hills.

The information may not be readilly available in Ali's part of the world, not sure where that is but maybe Pakistan or somewhere like that.

If it is Pakistan we have another member from there, Haydar.
 
yeha, i cudn't believe it either.... I have three VW Golfs, a TD5 land rover defender and a few other cars.... they take alll kinds of beatingss but was really disappointed when the merc gave up at 45K.

Most of the cars here are japnese and mercedes is not a very common one. My car was previously owned by Czech embassy and i suspect that it was handled by drivers. Due to corruption and freuds, its hard to find good quality oils, most of them are of inferior quality or they just repack used oil into new cans. Drivers at embassies generally get the oils changed at cheap places and bill the embassy for a higher amount and offcourse the difference goes into their pockets.

When i bought my car i got the compression checked at the dealership and three of the six pistions had a much lower compression than what they are suppose to have. Then a week back, i got the oil changed to liqui moly mineral oil and after about three says; i started off at like 6 in the morning @ around 18 deg. celcius outside temperature and the car overheated. I stopped and parked and drove it to the mechanic next day.
He checked it throughly and said it was building up pressure in coolant hoses which is a sign of failed headgasket. So the headgasket needed to be replaced so i thought while im at it lets just give it a proper overhaul.
 
Daimmm rite its Pakistannn!!!

And yeha my dad did step on it the nite before it happened.... like proper uphill racing and that mountain is really steep!!!

And yeha one more thing... Dieselman, would ya know where onm the car can i find the transmission type (code).?
?
 
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Daimmm rite its Pakistannn!!!

And yeha my dad did step on it the nite before it happened.... like proper uphill racing and that mountain is really steep!!!

And yeha one more thing... Dieselman, would ya know where onm the car can i find the transmission type (code).?
?

It's a 722.6 5 speed electronic transmission.

Bang your Vin number into Here and all will be revealed

This might be interesting info, just remember to delete part of the Vin and chassis numbers befor posting on the forum.
 
Daimmm rite its Pakistannn!!!

And yeha my dad did step on it the nite before it happened.... like proper uphill racing and that mountain is really steep!!!

And yeha one more thing... Dieselman, would ya know where onm the car can i find the transmission type (code).?
?

Clearing the crap out of it Ali and blowing the rods through the side of the block are different things ! It really needed a nice sedate high speed run , adding more and more load - the equivalent of running in , where contrary to popular belief , it isn't speed that kills an engine , but making it lug.
 
Thankssssssssssssssssssss Dieselman.... you have made my life a lottt easierr...This VIN website is propa wockedd!! seriously!!!

I found this on one of the websites talkin about 722.6 tranny but didnt really understand...How do i reset this atf counterr??:confused:
"The transmission control module contains a program that keeps a running count of the "calculated" cndition of the ATF oil. (Note from Gilly-I believe this was deleted from the modules right around 2001-2002, not there anymore-DG) The factors that affect the oil are time and temperature. The counter is incremented with engine running time and incremented greater with higher ATF temperatures. The Hand-Held Tester (now SDS-DG) displays a numerical value that represents the value of the calculation. At some given point in time Germany will tell us (still waiting, evidently-DG) which number means its time to change the oil. For now there is no service interval for the ATF oil. If you replace a transmission you should re-set the counter back to zero to account for the new oil. If you are doing internal work and you are replacing the oil you should also re-set the counter. It is acceptable to drain the oil out into a clean container and reuse it, provided it was collected using the MB filter funnel."

And would you know if i can get the error codes displayed sumwhere in my car... i heard error codes can be displayed on the aircon screen without any hardware on cars with climate control; is that true??How?? And can i resent the service interval reminder without any hardware as i have carried out the service but it still keeps reminding me every time i start the car.

Cheerss!!


 
Actual fault codes and service life counters can only be reset using a proper diagnostic tool.
Don't bother if you don't have access to one, it's not important.

The service countdown can be reset by:
Switch the ignition on and press 0 buton twice to bring up the counter.
Press and hold the 0 button and switch off then on the ignition.
Keep holding thet 0 button and count to five. There will be a gong sound and the counter will reset to 15,000km.
Let go of button.
 
Clearing the crap out of it Ali and blowing the rods through the side of the block are different things ! It really needed a nice sedate high speed run , adding more and more load - the equivalent of running in , where contrary to popular belief , it isn't speed that kills an engine , but making it lug.


I agree wid ya Fred.... but i dunno what went wrong..... i believe it was the switchin of oil from thick fake ones to much thinner german one. Thats the common belief here that if a diesel car has weak compression thick oil will work much better and it drastically reduces the oil blow coming out of the oil filler cap, switch back to thin oil ruins the motor although i dont think if its true.

The motor is at a lathe shop in pieces... hes gna tell me if new main and big end bearing are required, if oversize pistons will be needed or replacing the rings will do just fine.:o
 
In future, you want to order your oil from another country I would think :)

Opieoils is a good supplier of oils, they're based in the UK.

For your ATF, filter and gasket, use this site: http://www.mercedes-benz-parts.co.uk/. Use only MB ATF, don't use anything else - Mercedes put their own little concoction of lubricants in there which apparently are quite important.

Its also worth checking the seal for the ECU cable, I'm not certain exactly where it is but its a common point of failure. Worth replacing while the gearbox is being done.
 

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