Engine timing and ATF

[Ali E300TD]

Thanks Parrot of doom...

I actually found the original mercedes atf.... the same part number which Dieselman posted, its is quite expensive though like 17 us dollars per liter where as febi atf is priced at 6 us dollars per liter.

 

[Ali E300TD]

Hey guys!!!

My E300's motor is back in one piece now and installed in the car... Thanks to all of you.. really appreciate it!

But there is a problem. The motor was still over heating after the overhaul, the temperature was at 90 degrees even at idiling, and overheating was the reason for the overhaul. I have not driven the car yet but i'm sure it will go upto 120 degrees. I think there is some thing wrong with the coolant circulation, because half of the radiator was cold while half was hot and the engine itself was burning hot. We did get rid of all the air in the system and also took out the thermo valve but theres no difference.

Would anyone know whats wrong with the car, i will get the water pump removed and checked tomorrow although i did check it during the overhaul and it was rotating fine, but it was not seperated from the assembly so i couldnt see the blades.

DIESELMAN!
I found the marks on the cam, crank and the port on the side of the injection pump and i got the locking tool made from a local blacksmith. But i cant really understand how do i align the injection pump with the 14 deg. mark on the crank pulley. Do i have to remove the vacuum pump for that?? Is there any mark on the injection pump pulley which i have to align with crank pulley @ 14 deg.??

Pleaseee helppp!!!!

 

[Dieselman]

Hey guys!!!

My E300's motor is back in one piece now and installed in the car... Thanks to all of you.. really appreciate it!

But there is a problem. The motor was still over heating after the overhaul, the temperature was at 90 degrees even at idiling, and overheating was the reason for the overhaul. I have not driven the car yet but i'm sure it will go upto 120 degrees. I think there is some thing wrong with the coolant circulation, because half of the radiator was cold while half was hot and the engine itself was burning hot. We did get rid of all the air in the system and also took out the thermo valve but theres no difference.

Would anyone know whats wrong with the car, i will get the water pump removed and checked tomorrow although i did check it during the overhaul and it was rotating fine, but it was not seperated from the assembly so i couldnt see the blades.

DIESELMAN!
I found the marks on the cam, crank and the port on the side of the injection pump and i got the locking tool made from a local blacksmith. But i cant really understand how do i align the injection pump with the 14 deg. mark on the crank pulley. Do i have to remove the vacuum pump for that?? Is there any mark on the injection pump pulley which i have to align with crank pulley @ 14 deg.??

Pleaseee helppp!!!!

Overheating could be either air in the system still as these are diffcult to bleed properly. You need to have an extended header tank/funnel and keep squeezing the bottom hose with it idleing and heater on hot. It will take about an hour to bleed.
Check for blocked radiator and water pump impeller broken off the shaft, also thermostat but you said that was Ok.
Next is the viscous fan and injection timing. Retarded timing will cause overheat.

To fit the pump you need the vacuum pump off and the fuel pump locked. the pump inserts into the timing gear which must be correct against the chain so the pump is near 14 deg ATDC. Then there is an adjuster at the front of the IP to fine tune the timing.

Good luck..

 

[Ali E300TD]

There is nothing radically different between the 300 multivalve engine and previous 300 diesel engines.
This engine has twin camshafts where the exhaust cam is chain driven and the intake cam is gear driven off the exhaust cam.
As long as the timing marks atre aligned there shouldn't be a problem.

The IP timing is via the port in the rear side of the pump where there is a pointer that spins round as the pump rotates. Align the pointer with the centre of the port with the crank set to 14 deg ATDC.

There is a proper locking tool for locking the pointer and another for checking the timing.

I would try to use MB ATF as it has been designed specifically for that gearbox.

I can't believe your engine is trashed so soon, what's wrong with it?

I am not aware of ATDC, the way the mechnic did it was alligning the marks behing the camshaft gears with the marks on the gears for the cam and aligning the OT (written on the crank pulley) with mark on the block i think; for the crank. And he locked the pump with that tool and installed it and started the car.

I am pretty certain that these timings are fine as the car started fine, sounds is alright and there is no smoke but i am not sure about the injection pump timings which are adjusted by loosening up the pump bolts around the vacuum pump and adjusting the bolt ( 8 centimeter i think) behind the pump pulley (facing the engine). My mechnic does not know where the standard mark is for this setting; he adjusted it based on experience but i think the timings are a little advanced as the starting is a bit longer than what it should be.

So if you can please elaborate on adjusting these timings and if its possible to attach any pics.

Thanks again!!

 

[Dieselman]

Sorry no pics, but if you set the crank to 14 ATDC and check the IP timing is correct via the port then you will find that is correct.

As you say the adjustment is via the three locking bolts then there is a vernier screw for fine adjustment.

If the timing is out this could well be the reason for overheating.

 

[Ali E300TD]

Overheating could be either air in the system still as these are diffcult to bleed properly. You need to have an extended header tank/funnel and keep squeezing the bottom hose with it idleing and heater on hot. It will take about an hour to bleed.
Check for blocked radiator and water pump impeller broken off the shaft, also thermostat but you said that was Ok.
Next is the viscous fan and injection timing. Retarded timing will cause overheat.

To fit the pump you need the vacuum pump off and the fuel pump locked. the pump inserts into the timing gear which must be correct against the chain so the pump is near 14 deg ATDC. Then there is an adjuster at the front of the IP to fine tune the timing.

Good luck..

You have not mentioned anywhere about the OT mark on the crank pulley. How do i bring the pump to 14 deg? what do i align the 14 deg, on the crank pulley, with?? and what is ATDC???

 

[Ali E300TD]

Sorry for being a pain...!!!

But its really a bit confusing for me.

The pulley is marked 15......0.......5.....10....15......20, which 14 deg do i take, the ones on the right or the zero or the ones on the left of the zero?? What do i align it with, is there any mark on the block or some other pointer??

I know TDC stands for top dead center but whats ATDC??

 

[Dieselman]

Sorry for being a pain...!!!

But its really a bit confusing for me.

The pulley is marked 15......0.......5.....10....15......20, which 14 deg do i take, the ones on the right or the zero or the ones on the left of the zero?? What do i align it with, is there any mark on the block or some other pointer??

I know TDC stands for top dead center but whats ATDC??

After TDC.
It sounds strange but it's because the timing pointer in the IP isn't set the same as the pump TDC.

Lock the pump and set the engine to 14 ATDC. The engine rotates clockwise looking from the front of the car so it is the marks to the right of the 0T mark.

Does that make sense?

 

[Ali E300TD]

Yeha kinda... but not really!!

See if im standing in front of the car looking at the engine and i rotate the engine clockwise then it will go to the 14 deg on the left of the OT... rite??

if i wana take the 14deg on the right of the OT, then i will have to rotate the engine anticloclwise.. right??

 

[Dieselman]

As you stand in front of the car looking at eh engine rotate to your right, towards the 20 deg marker.

 

[Ali E300TD]

Rotating to the right... so basically i am using (aligning) the 14 deg. on the left of the OT??

 

[Ali E300TD]

K, i almost got it now...

One more thing, the on board computer was warning about EPC engine electronics.. would you know what this is about??

 

[Dieselman]

K, i almost got it now...

One more thing, the on board computer was warning about EPC engine electronics.. would you know what this is about??

It depends on the code, but it isn't happy with something to do with the fuel pump.
Check all the connections including the crank sensor.
There isn't really a lot of electrical gear on this engine, Crank position sensor, IP rotation and speed sensor, throttle pot plausibility, rack position motor and feedback coils, fuel cutoff solenoid.

The auxillary sensors shouldn't bring on EPC.

 

[Ali E300TD]

Alright, i will get them checked.

Is there any way i can bring up the code on the on board computer screen or sumthing?

 

[Dieselman]

No. You will need the proper star diagnostics or similar.

 

[Ali E300TD]

hmm arite..

I just got the water pump checked and the impeller is broken, its in four pieces!!

And this makes me think the whole overhaul was a total waste of money, time and effort!! Although the motor had weak compression but overhaul was not needed at this point in time.

I'm gonna kill my mechnic for not rectifing the overheating problem properly.

 

[Dieselman]

But I thought you said the engine had low compression before the overhaul.

Sounds like the pump went and sent the temp sky high and it was not dealt with so cooked the rings.

 

[Ali E300TD]

Yeha it had low compression before the overhaul... not anymore!!

I checked the timings as well, the ip can be locked when crank is at 14 deg. And the EPC warnings has disappeared as well.

The temperature stays at 80 deg now... so its all good, havn;t really driven it properly as it needs some run-in.

Thanks alot Dieselman, you've been really really helpful without your assistance i would have been lost!!!

THANKSS LOADSS!!!