Exactly my experience.
EQC Battery Rang really bad or is it me!
- Thread starter EQC2020
- Start date
Page may contain affiliate links. Please see terms for details.
Jigglyjohnson
Active Member
In this case I would deform be back at the dealers and getting them to check mercs are looking for real world cases to be reported so they can look and see what issues lie beneath the surface. All dealers have the option to forward a problem vehicle to the technical dept and I suggest this should be the case here. There may be a software update for the battery management systems as they run two one for the front drive u it and one for the rear unit. Do you have anyone else you know who has one of these you could compare it against?
grober
MB Master
HARRY queries the supercharge rate-its because his car was already fairly well charged rather than "empty" and chargers reduce their charge rate automatically as the battery "fills up" PRICE WISE his basic model is fully specced up bumping up the price. WRT his id3 review and EV reviews in general while they make a big thing of purchase cost and range they very rarely mention ongoing fuel/running costs-sure your ICE will do more miles- but at a cost the next time you visit the pumps! Its just the 2 events are spaced further apppart in time to make the connection--- whereas for EV range and additional energy cost are closely linked in time. Now this honeymoon taxation period for EV won't last but I expect ICE taxation and urban road restriction to increase also. Its probably a gamble whatever you do.
Despite the poor range, another worry is the depreciation or saleability in future years, a merc hybrid battery costs over £13,000 and conferring how much a secondhand hybrid is worth, nobody would want to buy one if a replacement battery falls within your ownership.
grober
MB Master
As always you need to read the small print to decide what constitutes batttery failure e.g. what loss of charge capacity would constitute a "battery failure"
What's the current MB ICE POWERTRAIN warranty?
Last edited:
It’s not about the warranty, although it does say “The Battery Certificate covers technical malfunctions of the HVB, arising directly from an inherent manufacturing fault.”, this is not wear and tear. I certainly wouldn’t be buying one that’s a few years old, just in case of a failure is not covered and I would think a lot of people would be put off purchasing an ev if the battery warranty is close to its end.
Imagine eqc at 5 years old and 60-70,000 miles, would you buy? Cars still good but is the battery good for the length of your ownership?
grober
MB Master
Agreed its all to do with history and mileage-----I would also hesitate to buy a modern electronically laden ICE Mercedes complete with limited life emissions equipment greater than 5 years old/ 100k miles but as always the failure v risk is often reflected in the price--- I expect that as EV numbers increase and battery technology improves the 2nd hand market will give rise to a network of MB EV battery specialists who will offer battery replacement at 50% of MB prices if ICE is anything to go by? Its early days to get any feel for the second hand MB or any other EV market.
tafarawacho
New Member
I think you can do this as easy as setting it on your app.You can set the app on your phone and keeping an eye on it for her.You can aslo do it as and and when it's needed just by setting the temperature to come on.
"On the APP" , you must be kidding , phone battery charge is enough of a problem. Are you married ?? Me keep an eye on the charge ??
Who's going to have the flack when she gets in the car and the batteries are flat ??
Slightly odd thread!
You're not "getting" 170 miles of range or whatever. That's just what a very conservative and slightly erratic forecast tool is predicting what you would get if you decided to take a long trip. It's a rough guide but no more.
If you're doing lots of small trips, especially in cold weather, the range forecast will be quite inaccurate as to what would actually happen if you drove a long way. I find whenever I drive long it will comfortably do 180 miles, even if hammering it (a serene experience in this car!) And often well over 200.
Don't fuss about cabin heaters, just use them! If you work through the engineering, they use very little energy compared to driving. The onboard dials let you see this. If you put on the consumption usage display, you'll see that on a cold day, in the first mile or so, the heating will use 60% or so of the trip energy. That will then fall down very sharply the longer you drive. Normally 10% or lower even on a very cold day.
You're not "getting" 170 miles of range or whatever. That's just what a very conservative and slightly erratic forecast tool is predicting what you would get if you decided to take a long trip. It's a rough guide but no more.
If you're doing lots of small trips, especially in cold weather, the range forecast will be quite inaccurate as to what would actually happen if you drove a long way. I find whenever I drive long it will comfortably do 180 miles, even if hammering it (a serene experience in this car!) And often well over 200.
Don't fuss about cabin heaters, just use them! If you work through the engineering, they use very little energy compared to driving. The onboard dials let you see this. If you put on the consumption usage display, you'll see that on a cold day, in the first mile or so, the heating will use 60% or so of the trip energy. That will then fall down very sharply the longer you drive. Normally 10% or lower even on a very cold day.
Petrol Pete
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
This thread reminds me of other tech that was unpredictable , fuel gauges on motorcycles in the 1980's. I had a few that were either over optimistic or took a dive from half full to zero in the blink of an eye 
We soon learned to ignore them . What was most annoying is that some manufacturers deleted the fuel reserve tap when they fitted these dodgy gauges - ask me how I found that one out 
- Different times.
We soon learned to ignore them . What was most annoying is that some manufacturers deleted the fuel reserve tap when they fitted these dodgy gauges - ask me how I found that one out - Different times.
JBD
MB Enthusiast
My recommendation would be to use D Auto by pressing and holding on the up paddle. On a country road, you’ll shed speed and therefore momentum in D- or D- -
in D auto it’ll use the camera at the front of the cat to adjust regenerative braking, allowing coasting when there’s nothing ahead and therefore maintaining momentum and reducing acceleration efforts. You’ll also get optimum regeneration when there’s someone in front, or a roundabout coming up. That system is linked to the navigation, so will optimise regeneration for the anticipated roads ahead.
in D auto it’ll use the camera at the front of the cat to adjust regenerative braking, allowing coasting when there’s nothing ahead and therefore maintaining momentum and reducing acceleration efforts. You’ll also get optimum regeneration when there’s someone in front, or a roundabout coming up. That system is linked to the navigation, so will optimise regeneration for the anticipated roads ahead.
What was most annoying is that some manufacturers deleted the fuel reserve tap when they fitted these dodgy gauges - ask me how I found that one out
I have a secret reserve on mine. On normal reserve I have 2 litres. When that runs out and I come to a stop it takes all of 60 secs to lift the seat, release the bale clip at the back of the tank and lift the tank off the the frame tube with the fuel pipe still attached then tip the tank over on it's side so that a litre hiding on the left side flows over to the side with the tap on. It's the sort of thing you can do on a 42 year old BMW and it's got me out of trouble several times over the years.
- Joined
- Jun 24, 2008
- Messages
- 45,598
- Location
- London
- Car
- 2022 Hyundai IONIQ 5 RWD / 2016 Suzuki Vitara AWD
I don't do this sort of thing any more, not since I was in my twenties. You, see, I never bought the £2 pump.... because real men don't mind drinking a bit of petrol....
CharlieKerr
New Member
I have been driving the EQC for about 18 months, I unfortunately do not have the D Auto function but do use the paddles, it has taken me some time to realise the true function of what the regen system does and how you can use that most efficiently. At first I was selecting D-- for all my driving, enjoying the 1 pedal driving that that can deliver, but after reading an article about the braking system I now know that this is inefficient, might have been too obvious, but it's not clearly explained!!
When you brake lightly it does not apply the braking system, it only selects D-, (and D-- for slightly harder brake, a further push is needed to engage the system, remember that an EV does not have engine vacuum to 'power' the brakes), which means that if you drive normally with these selected you are effectively driving with the brakes on, in reality using one motor to charge the other which is not particularly efficient. I now try to actively use the paddles in the way that D Auto does (I think, not having experienced it) selecting D+ for accelerating, D for cruising and the D-'s for braking, doing this actively does return a higher Kw/m. I you cant be bothered using the paddles I do suggest leaving it in the default D, it returns better efficiency overall.
After my initial problems with the car I now just enjoy the wonder of it, cutting edge comfort and performance only insane AMG ICE models deliver other than top speed, but if you drive over 100mph on our roads on a regular basis you need to have a close look at yourself
, before Mr Plod does.With home charging and workplace (the solution) charging combined with my mileage needs the car is perfect, just trying to work out how I could justify buying the new EQS next, but that would mean doing the lottery again
Petrol Pete
Hardcore MB Enthusiast
I think MB should include a free hour of tutorial with Sir LH or VB to teach the new owners the benefits of 'harvesting' when driving a fast MB
CharlieKerr
New Member
Embarrassing update! after reading some of the posts I pulled the left paddle back on the way home and low and behold D auto appeared! 18 months inI have been driving the EQC for about 18 months, I unfortunately do not have the D Auto function but do use the paddles, it has taken me some time to realise the true function of what the regen system does and how you can use that most efficiently. At first I was selecting D-- for all my driving, enjoying the 1 pedal driving that that can deliver, but after reading an article about the braking system I now know that this is inefficient, might have been too obvious, but it's not clearly explained!!
When you brake lightly it does not apply the braking system, it only selects D-, (and D-- for slightly harder brake, a further push is needed to engage the system, remember that an EV does not have engine vacuum to 'power' the brakes), which means that if you drive normally with these selected you are effectively driving with the brakes on, in reality using one motor to charge the other which is not particularly efficient. I now try to actively use the paddles in the way that D Auto does (I think, not having experienced it) selecting D+ for accelerating, D for cruising and the D-'s for braking, doing this actively does return a higher Kw/m. I you cant be bothered using the paddles I do suggest leaving it in the default D, it returns better efficiency overall.
After my initial problems with the car I now just enjoy the wonder of it, cutting edge comfort and performance only insane AMG ICE models deliver other than top speed, but if you drive over 100mph on our roads on a regular basis you need to have a close look at yourself
With home charging and workplace (the solution) charging combined with my mileage needs the car is perfect, just trying to work out how I could justify buying the new EQS next, but that would mean doing the lottery again
I was sure I read that the auto was only available on models with the front camera, wrong again.raspy
Active Member
@SMS EV technology is evolving so rapidly, I think it's unwise at this point to "buy" any EV for long term ownership. Hence, so many are leasing (or company cars) or taking out a PCP deal and handing back after 2-3 years.
Some EVs might retain value quite well, but for a lot of EVs, depreciation will be savage as battery tech improves year after year and new models are launched from a variety of manufacturers.
We won't know until 5-10 years time whether EQC batteries have a relatively high rate of failure/degredation. Until then, customers are relying upon the assurance of the warranty provided by MB.
Yes, there are stories about the expensive cost of replacing a MB Hybrid battery, but apart from stories, what data is there? i.e. Out of all the MB hybrids sold in the UK, what proportion have needed a replacement hybrid battery (either within warranty or outside warranty)? I'm really curious to see that data, if you or anyone else is able to provide. Unless we have that hard data, we are basing our opinions on stories that may well not represent the actual ownership experience across ALL MB hybrids.
D
Deleted member 126969
Guest
That’s a very valid point @raspy, what data is out there. The Tesla community did a very good user experience survey but I doubt one could ever be organised for us lowly hybrid owners tbh. The thing I found most concerning of late was the example of the used C350e where the potential purchasing dealer did a capacity check, found it was under 70% and knocked a huge chunk off the offer price for the car.
Users who are viewing this thread
Similar threads
