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Failed MOT

We have a garage local to us that does MOTs.
They don't have an MOT bay or tester and take to the place round the corner for the MOT.

When I see people that have had a car in for a Service/MOT have failures for things like tyres, bulbs etc. it gets on my goat.
The "servicing" garage clearly don't check anything and only react to issues found by the tester.

Used them once many moons ago, never again.
Agreed that obvious items such as tyre condition, brake condition, lights etc should be checked as part of a service and picked up and remedied before MOT but there are things only an MOT tester will look for and be able to test to their satisfaction.
 
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Erg - do they or don’t they do MoTs?

They have an agreement with a local (very good) garage to do the MOTs even though they do not have a bay in their own garage.
If you look them up on DVSA they are listed at the other garages address as approved.
 
They have an agreement with a local (very good) garage to do the MOTs even though they do not have a bay in their own garage.
If you look them up on DVSA they are listed at the other garages address as approved.
So they don’t “do” MoTs... they just arrange them by sub contracting the test..a bit of a difference ...
 
So they don’t “do” MoTs... they just arrange them by sub contracting the test..a bit of a difference ...

Well yes and no. They are listed on DVSA (as I've said) as an MOT test centre.
They do not have a test bed within the garage they do the repairs in.

Vehicles go to a garage around the corner and the Test Certificate has their own name on it.

So yes, they do "do" MOTs. ;)

All academic as I'd never use them for the reason stated earlier.
 
Like you I’ve had a car tested an hour after a full service...it failed on a blown bulb and a split wiper blade...the bulb blowing in the interim I could almost accept...but the wiper blade...
 
I'm quite lucky to have a good relationship with my MOT garage.

They know they wont get a lot of work from me other than MOTs and the odd repair when I'm busy and I'm happy to pay a little more for MOTs (£45 ~ £55).

What they do know is that when they get a car from me I've done all the basic checks and then some. ;)
 
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I looked at paper work and jacked up car, MOT says fail on windscreen wipers and OUTER CV BOOT that's whats listed on Gov web site, wipers I agree ordered new set, looked at boot and cant see any damage on outer, MOT fail says outer OFside outer on paper work, but when I collected mech assumed I would have fixed, I did not have fixed , said actually its inside OFF side boot not what's on paper work?

so if I take for a retest will they check outer as listed on fail or inner ?

all sounds a bit iffie to me

Thanks
In all likely hood the tester will re-check all CV boots - The tester will expect to see a new one somewhere. Usually it is easy to see splits on CV boots because they will be stained with the escaping grease. If in doubt check the outer's by turning the wheels to full lock then rotate the wheel and inspect the boot. The inner's are less likely to fail, however, I did once upon a time have an Audi that had an appetite for the inner boots. The inner's are more difficult to inspect on may cars but you need to stretch them and check best you can.

The job is not too bad if you are used to replacing suspension components but if you don't have a hefty 3/4" drive breaker bar then you probably want to give the job to someone who has practiced before. It is more involved than regular servicing.
Undo the hub nut before you remove the wheel, break the lower ball joint or whatever means you can get the hub carrier away from the drive shaft easiest. I prefer not to unbolt adjustable ball joints where fitted to avoid having to mess around with alignment afterwards. Be careful not to stretch and damage the ABS / brake wear sensor wiring and brake hose. You may then be able to use a stretch tool to slip the new rubber over the joint. I have never done it that way as I don't have a CV rubber spreader. This then involves removing the drive shaft from the CV joint which is usually retained by a circlip or groove ring. I prefer to pull the whole drive shaft assembly from the gearbox (some gear oil will drain out) and get it on the bench to ensure a clean joint before repacking with CV grease and new boot(s). A new (self locking) hub nut usually is required. Make sure your boot comes with decent clips or metal tie wraps for re-installation before you start. Get a list of make up torques for reassembly.

In my experience I have never come across an MOT tester who did not pick up genuine defects only. I presently look after 4 family cars and I generally get them tested at Kwik-fit or similar for convenience. I try and catch faults as they occur but the testers keep my family safe by picking up on the stuff I miss. Last week I was surprised by two failure faults that had occurred after I had inspected them. One was a suspension bush that had become un-bonded from the suspension arm but the other was a brake pipe that had started to weep fluid!. I had inspected both these items about four weeks ago but they were definitely in need of repair and replacement when presented for inspection. The testers are on an hourly rate, they don't make anything by fabricating failures. They are however responsible for the only passing vehicles with no prescribed faults and are critical to ensuring your car is safe to drive with the knowledge that it won't be presented for inspection for the next 12 months.
 
Many Thanks

Ill order some boots, Yes I do have a 3/4 and 1/2 socket set with some long breaker bars, thanks for heads up on hub nut.

I did notice there a German supplier doing a pair of drive shaft complete for £114, could be worth keeping in mind, prices for part for this car so far have all been very reasonable so far


Thanks to all


Tezz
 
We have a garage local to us that does MOTs.
They don't have an MOT bay or tester and take to the place round the corner for the MOT.

When I see people that have had a car in for a Service/MOT have failures for things like tyres, bulbs etc. it gets on my goat.
The "servicing" garage clearly don't check anything and only react to issues found by the tester.

Used them once many moons ago, never again.
Not sure what you mean, do you mean when the car is taken for a pre-MOT service check, and it then fails.
Or do you mean a basic oil service prior to a Due MOT, where maybe wheel bearings, brake efficiency and a fog light would not be checked ?
 
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Many Thanks

Ill order some boots, Yes I do have a 3/4 and 1/2 socket set with some long breaker bars, thanks for heads up on hub nut.

I did notice there a German supplier doing a pair of drive shaft complete for £114, could be worth keeping in mind, prices for part for this car so far have all been very reasonable so far


Thanks to all


Tezz
Just a note to say if there is a hub nut cover then you will need to remove the wheel to get the cover off. I would then replace the wheel before trying to break out the hub nut. If you hold it on the foot brake without the wheel fitted then you might shear the disc holding bolts as the wheel studs provide the clamping force.
£114 seems good for a new shaft but unless you have doubts about the CV joints a boot kit is a whole lot less.
 
Not sure what you mean, do you mean when the car is taken for a pre-MOT service check, and it then fails.
Or do you mean a basic oil service prior to a Due MOT, where maybe wheel bearings, brake efficiency and a fog light would not be checked ?
No I having read the post I believe that it is referring to a car failing an MOT for items which are supposedly checked during a service, when the car is being serviced and MOTed on the same day. I agree, that is not a sign of the service being completed diligently.
 
No I having read the post I believe that it is referring to a car failing an MOT for items which are supposedly checked during a service, when the car is being serviced and MOTed on the same day. I agree, that is not a sign of the service being completed diligently.
So unless the car owner has given the service garage the go ahead up front to repair and fix all the problems on the same day, maybe expensive and time permitting, then the car will fail anyway if it has worn tyres, brakes and emission problems?
 
So unless the car owner has given the service garage the go ahead up front to repair and fix all the problems on the same day, maybe expensive and time permitting, then the car will fail anyway if it has worn tyres, brakes and emission problems?
Yes the car will fail, and hence what I believe the reason for the post, because failing the MOT for an item checked during the service seems unnecessary.

The garage/dealer could call the owner and let them know that they’ve found an issue during the service, provide a quote and ask if they’d like them to fix it before MOTing the car. If the parts aren’t in stock then MOT it after the repairs have been made.

Every garage/dealer I’ve ever used have asked if I’d like them to fix/replace any issues they’ve found during a service, so it doesn’t seem unreasonable for the, to do the same when servicing and MOTing the car.

Anyway, it’s not my post so I’ll stop trying to explain someone else’s post,
 
Anyway, it’s not my post so I’ll stop trying to explain someone else’s post,
Excellent reply though.

My MOT guy who does all my 3 vehicles will MOT, and if fail give me time to fix and bring back within the time allowed.
He works on a busy timed schedule and wouldn't have time to rectify and tyres, brakes or drive shaft boots.
I would have thought most garages would use this same principle, they simply wouldn't have the time or manpower to fix everything before taking it to a pre-booked MOT station.
So is a pre MOT service, or is that a pre MOT check, worth it unless you will willing to accept a failure, may as well get them to rebook and fix it ASAP.
Just thought the garage wasn't doing anything wrong really, unless they truly sent it with a blown bulb or worn tyre ?
 
Not sure what you mean, do you mean when the car is taken for a pre-MOT service check, and it then fails.
Or do you mean a basic oil service prior to a Due MOT, where maybe wheel bearings, brake efficiency and a fog light would not be checked ?

I mean if you have a Major Full Service done on your car one day then the next it fails the MOT for a Tyre, Front Lamp, Washer not working etc.
All things I'd want the service person to find.
 
I mean if you have a Major Full Service done on your car one day then the next it fails the MOT for a Tyre, Front Lamp, Washer not working etc.
All things I'd want the service person to find.
Then that should never happen, and I agree.
Just thought even a major service could miss things like brake efficiency, headlamp misalignment and emissions among other issues.
 
Then that should never happen, and I agree.
Just thought even a major service could miss things like brake efficiency, headlamp misalignment and emissions among other issues.

Of course, that was not what I mentioned or meant. ;)
 
Im not saying MOT garaged did anything wrong just found it a bit odd, that outer CV BOOT listed as damaged and told its in fact the inner, could be an innocent mistake as garages well under pressure due to back log

I serviced car myself, to be honest only looked at outers and done a total of 2500 miles since last MOT, not common for inners to split

The wipers I did check a few days earlier and looked ok, but was left at garage for a few days for them to fit in when ever, we had frost same few days and as we all know worst thing for wipers is to turn on if stuck, so not fussed about them.

I do get a free retest before 10 days are up.

so looking at car, issue and cost, I don't mind using pattern parts as from what iv seem of MB quality of build im taking same risks just saving money, and from parts ive removed on a car with full history, m better of replacing myself just more offen, than be told its been done and not.

So choices, pair wipers £10, split CV booT £10 yes I can hear screams now about split boot

Cars now at 90,000 and seams to be a few issues around drive shafts posted.

so replace boot, get tools cone ect, remove shaft is 95% of work but keep OEM drive shaft hope CV joints OK and hope they seal, which seams 50/50 chance even when done by garage

Or temp repair order and wait for new drive shafts at £55-60 per side with 3 year warranty, I very much doubt this car will last that long before comes uneconomical to repair

Have to be realistic, car is just to get from A-B, I have no attachment for car and probably will never buy another MB, if I had not owned this car I doubt I would have believed such fundamental flaws , its at age one major fault and its scrap

Me im leaning towards split boot for MOT, order shaft and see what happens

Thanks



Tezz
 

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