Latest on my W202 C230K aka ''Rough Rough''

[brucemillar]

John

I feel your pain here. You will possibly have seen my post(s) about temperature gauge's that misread? I spent ages trying to track down what I believed was an overheating engine only to discover it was an over-reading temp gauge.

The worst part was.... Suspecting a faulty gauge early on in the process I replaced it with another new gauge from a different maker. What could possibly go wrong there then? This was also over-reading.

Eventually I dropped the sender into a boiling kettle while it was connected to the gauge. That gave a reading of 117c. Three gauges later (all with new senders) I finally got one that read 100 in boiling water.

Now I wouldn't have minded it being +/- a couple of degrees but these were all out by +/- 10 degrees.

Finally I invested in an Infrared Thermometer and tested that in boiling water first.

This was after I had replaced.

Thermostat(s)
Radiator Core
Gaskets
Coolant
Hoses

..and two gauges.

STACK are listed as being the best available.....Hmmmm

I have lent said thermometer to Charles Morgan to try and help him track down his temp issues in his BMW. Great bit of kit and well worth the money.

 

[John Jones Jr]

John

I feel your pain here. You will possibly have seen my post(s) about temperature gauge's that misread? I spent ages trying to track down what I believed was an overheating engine only to discover it was an over-reading temp gauge.

The worst part was.... Suspecting a faulty gauge early on in the process I replaced it with another new gauge from a different maker. What could possibly go wrong there then? This was also over-reading.

Eventually I dropped the sender into a boiling kettle while it was connected to the gauge. That gave a reading of 117c. Three gauges later (all with new senders) I finally got one that read 100 in boiling water.

Now I wouldn't have minded it being +/- a couple of degrees but these were all out by +/- 10 degrees.

I invested in an Infrared Thermometer and tested that in boiling water first.

This was after I had replaced.

Thermostat(s)
Radiator Core
Gaskets
Coolant
Hoses

..and two gauges.

STACK are listed as being the best available.....Hmmmm

Yes Bruce, I read your thread and actually reckoned you've been very, very unlucky. Of course it never crossed my mind that something similar would happen to me especially when I made point of buying what's considered a top quality item. I won't bore you with the hours I wasted 'investigating' the fault and the added frustration which was compounded by fact of doubting my own amature abilities...and that's not difficult for me to do!

 

[brucemillar]

John

If it helps. I just used my brand new Hilka Trigger Grip Grease Gun for the first time today. It came with three grease cartridges. All three were empty. WTF?

Sent from my iPhone using MBClub UK

 

[John Jones Jr]

John

If it helps. I just used my brand new Hilka Trigger Grip Grease Gun for the first time today. It came with three grease cartridges. All three were empty. WTF?

Sent from my iPhone using MBClub UK

That's makes me feel a whole better, not!

Really, all were empty??? WTF, is right...

 

[John Jones Jr]

The JJJ road test.

1. Get engine up to full operation temperature, approx.six miles.

2. Find a reasonably clear stretch of road

3. Make sure the loosely hanging boost gauge is clearly visible.

4. Keep an eye on the b/gauge and rev counter. Then hammer the throttle.

5. Have a little smile to oneself as the the engine produces 8 psi anywhere from 2800-4000 rpm. After that it starts climbing to max 10 psi. Yeah baby! :bannana:

6. Then get passed as if you're standing still by an Audi A8 4.2 TDIGTITIDIREDI. Yeah baby my ass!

 

[sicelo]

that A8 has to still prove its worth however. the Kompressor has done that for 17 years, haha. Wonder how many of today's beasts will be around in the next 17 years

 

[John Jones Jr]

Wonder how many of today's beasts will be around in the next 17 years

The only answer I can give to that Sicelo, is sadly very few and the one's that are still around that length of time will probably be exceptions. And that goes not just for the likes of A8's I'd reckon. Two tonne of aluminium has got to worth something even in depressed market.


P.s. It's a bloody darn good reason to be driving one now.

 

[John Jones Jr]

The latest.

After doing about a 1,000 miles in April and May a few things came to light and one or two to do items also.

1. There's slight battery drain - nothing serious unless the car hasn't been used for a few weeks.

2. The rear suspension settled after fitting the new springs and dropped by 7 mm. So, currently I'm replacing the rear 3 nib spring pads with 4's.

3. As there's all new nuts & bolts on the down pipe and centre joint, I'll coat them in copper slip just in case there's a need to remove the exhaust system at some stage.

4. Change the brake fluid. As mentioned previously I'm not too happy about the initial pedal feel.

Between now and September I'm going to install an AFR gauge, a replacement Boost gauge (going to pass on buying another expensive Stack), opting instead for Bosch one from Bosch U.S. which is cheap (read made in China) but looks good. Next up I'll fit my new Water/Methanol Injection system.

That will be if for this year besides giving it a good few blasts including a couple of Dublin-London trips later in the year and maybe one to the Scottish Highlands all going well.

 

[vijilants]

4. Change the brake fluid. As mentioned previously I'm not too happy about the initial pedal feel.

John, If you havn't done so already, when you change out the fluid, change out the flexible brake hoses for some decent ones. I did so on my C230K and it made a huge difference to the pedal feel.

Also that BAS unit malfunctioning also plays a part in the pedal feel.

 

[sicelo]

how do you do brake fluid change on the C230K? pedal pump?

 

[vijilants]

how do you do brake fluid change on the C230K? pedal pump?

Suck the fluid out of the resevoir with a syringe, fill it to the brim with new fluid and bleed off till new fluid flows through, starting from the offside rear, nearside rear, offside front and nearside front calipers.

I pedal pumped mine when I did it yes, with some help.

 

[John Jones Jr]

John, If you havn't done so already, when you change out the fluid, change out the flexible brake hoses for some decent ones. I did so on my C230K and it made a huge difference to the pedal feel.

Also that BAS unit malfunctioning also plays a part in the pedal feel.

Vij, fitted new S/S braided hoses in January and bled the system which didn't need much bleeding. I probably only used 250 ml of brake fluid.

Prior to that the car was sitting up for maybe six months and the same the previous year. Thus, I'm suspecting a BFC will sort the issue. Don't misunderstand me, the brakes are very good (new pads & discs f&r too), just that initial feel is not to my liking.

 

[John Jones Jr]

Here's the car now with the No3 rear spring pads replaced with No4's. Now she's sitting much better and the tops of both front & rear wheel arches are the same distance from the ground. Note the impact a bloody doggy ball can do in the wrong hands, see the C post.

 

[John Jones Jr]

No updates really. I have been using the car on and off and I'm delighted to say it's driving very well and goes like stink, or to be more accurate it seems to go like stink.

I have now fitted the 'go-faster' gauges on the side of the centre console which are clearly visible through the steering wheel spokes. I didn't want to dash mount them. The top one is for AFR, and all seems well there, from cruising to WOT but I'm not 100% sure so will need to get a second opinion. The lower boost gauge is a cheapo Bosch one supplied from the U.S., made in China surprise, surprise but at the money and considering the previous expensive STACK gauge packed up I'm happy with it and importantly it's reading correctly too.

The two green and red lights are for the Water/Methanol Injection system which I should (hope) to get installed soon.

 

[John Jones Jr]

This is interesting.

Modified C200 Kompressor -vs- EVO 7 GT-A 272HP (stock) rolling start. Carried out four times with the same result.

https://youtu.be/IV2EcmLuwIo

 

[carat 3.6]

This is interesting.

Modified C200 Kompressor -vs- EVO 7 GT-A 272HP (stock) rolling start. Carried out four times with the same result.

https://youtu.be/IV2EcmLuwIo

Pulls quite well I thought.

He list's the following mods in one of the other vids:
-larger 220mm crank pulley (max boost 0.85bar)
-ported m62 supercharger case (inlet and outlet)
-ported supercharger inlet pipe
-200 CPSI cat and 70mm exhaust (CLK430 muffler)
-2x315cc auxilary fuel injectors (controlled with AEM FIC-6)
-MAF clamped at 4.62V

No intercooler mods, but the position of those extra injectors will cool the inlet charge somewhat anyway.

 

[John Jones Jr]

Pulls quite well I thought.

He list's the following mods in one of the other vids:
-larger 220mm crank pulley (max boost 0.85bar)
-ported m62 supercharger case (inlet and outlet)
-ported supercharger inlet pipe
-200 CPSI cat and 70mm exhaust (CLK430 muffler)
-2x315cc auxilary fuel injectors (controlled with AEM FIC-6)
-MAF clamped at 4.62V

Indeed it does Simon. But to say bye bye to the EVO like that he's now got 1.1bar/16 psi after a few more mods on the S/C pipework along with a smaller pulley.

 

[carat 3.6]

What boost pressure are you aiming for Jhon? That vid must be a bit of inspiration for you?

 

[John Jones Jr]

What boost pressure are you aiming for Jhon? That vid must be a bit of inspiration for you?

No more than I have now Simon which is 10 PSI @ max rev's but more importantly I've got 8 PSI almost everywhere and it's really instant.

I've haven't given up on improving performance just yet though. I've still to relocate the MAF back closer to the T/B and also try a clamp too. And then there's W/M Inj. Also, I'll consider deleting the air filter housing and using to separate cone filter on both the intake and Bypass valve.

So, if I even get an improvement in driveability (exactly what I don't know) and say even a modest 15 BHP/10 FT LB I'll be a very happy bunny.

 

[John Jones Jr]

So, if I even get an improvement in driveability (exactly what I don't know) and say even a modest 15 BHP/10 FT LB I'll be a very happy bunny.

I don't know if I mentioned this before but the aim is true 190 BHP @ the wheels. Which is 225-230 BHP @ the fly I'd guess or whoever RR figures I want to believe. But whatever I'm only interested in WHP.

Anyway, hopefully my target is not too overly ambitious as I had 179 BHP/250 ft lb @ the wheels with a poor fuel pump and the incorrect MAF at the last RR session, she was leaning out excessively over 5200 RPM. Also too, that RR was known for under reading by 3%.