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Mercedes W114 250 Coupe - help!

My cold got worse and with very chill damp air and way too much dust in the garage and VOC fumes out of the question, I took a few days out.

John B (Trapperjohn) very kindly brought his W124 down with lots of gardening tools to remove a rampant Skimmia and other shrubs and to provide moral support, and with a better day and a much improved cold, I cracked on with the car. He also brought down some nice 15 inch steel wheels from a W124 so I could start the process of getting the old wheels off for blasting and repainting. When I joined this forum John was the first to say hello, and he is a superb human being.

I also had a really helpful call from Nick Mercedes on where to find bits, many of the specialists over here and on the continent not having web presences. He offered to see if there was any of the interior stuff I need in the States as red interiors were more common there and the weather more conducive to the survival of basically vinyl covered cardboard!

The differential is now safely stowed behind the garage in my work area where I am going to build a blasting pit - Nick Froome suggested walnut shells as a much gentler (and much safer atmosphere than sand) idea, so these have been ordered.

Took the rear o/s window out of the car which was quite a bit easier than the front, familiarity with the task helping. The panel into which it retracts is clearly a weak point as the water that gets in from the window seal trickles down and corrodes the outer skin and the window mechanism. Nothing terminal but nevertheless it will need repair and attention - it is just around the corner from the rust I showed a wee while ago, so this is one of the key areas to look for if considering a W114 coupe - check in the window space and under the rear seats by the rear wheel arch.

Given the number of fixings that have come out in reasonable condition but being NLA everywhere, I am tempted to try getting an ultrasonic cleaner and home plating kit for zinc nickel. Getting all the various window seals will not be fun - the outer brush type one is metal backed and heavily disintegrated, and that too is NLA.

Meanwhile I was fruitless in trying to remove my first brake calliper - the allen bolts are nicely rusted in, when cleaned the allen key (a Snap On one from Tony that fits into a ratchet) just couldn't seat cleanly, so regular soakings with the LE2059 and this might call for the blowtorch, but only when I have had the advice of Tony.

Today, with luck and an address James!, I hope to view the donor engine in the donor car. I have decided to transplant a V8 for few reasons, I want to, the existing engine in the car has too many ishoos - the camshaft and valves are rusted (so useless), it is missing too many things so will cost a lot to sort, and I fancy the challenge, those famous last words before the intrepid adventurer ends up on a large monument to folly.
 
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Good to see you Charles and the project in the flesh. This project folks is truly a labour of love there can be no other reason.
 
What, I'm not going to make thousands out of it?! I'll stop right now!
 
Just be aware that the compressor might draw 13 amps when all is free and hunky dory but may draw more if it hasn't been run for a while. It may be an idea to run it without the belt for a couple of minutes and as already mentioned, spin the compressor over by hand for a few turns.

Glad to hear that your on the right side of the dreaded 'lurgy' and that the project is back on track.

Once you have the compressor up and running, you might consider a 1/2 inch drive air impact wrench to help move stubborn fixings such as the calliper bolts, they aren't that expensive.

Nice to see trapperjohn make a cameo appearance in Midsommer Merc..ers but you know he only came to sample Jill's cakes.
 
Nice to see trapperjohn make a cameo appearance in Midsommer Merc..ers but you know he only came to sample Jill's cakes.

Alas, he only got the farm shop homemade lemon curd cake, but come to think about it, if he dug out three large bushes, why are there now three mounds where they used to be? what was under the tarpaulin the back of the W124 estate? Whatever, I'll wager the roses will grow nicely on top when I get them in soon!

Noted on the compressor, thanks, and there is an impact wrench in the air tools Tony gave me.
 
Possibly not...

I have taken the boot lid up to Dan and Mat who are going to do two colours on it as a trial paint, which I will then accessorise with the interior bits and pieces to create a mood board as the interior design chaps with silk scarves might say.

Once decided I shall lock it away so only when done will the chosen colour become obvious.
 
I would make one general comment on the final colour chosen. Its only when viewed against modern models that one is struck is how relatively small these older cars were and how their height width ratio is different from today . On their own they look fine of course . :thumb: It is my personal take that darker metallic colours lend more "gravitas and style " :cool: to the look of these older cars than pale and dare I say it "insipid " non metallics :o - and helps integrate them more into the modern car population. That's just me of course. ;)
 
Meanwhile I was fruitless in trying to remove my first brake calliper - the allen bolts are nicely rusted in, when cleaned the allen key (a Snap On one from Tony that fits into a ratchet) just couldn't seat cleanly,

Try wrapping the Allen key with a strip of tin foil to make it fit more snugly. Sometimes, it's enough to get the job done.


Just when I was going to suggest a T-bar (safer, helps save the ratchet and will tolerate an additional bar for extra leverage) along came.....


Once you have the compressor up and running, you might consider a 1/2 inch drive air impact wrench to help move stubborn fixings such as the calliper bolts, they aren't that expensive.

there is an impact wrench in the air tools Tony gave me.

.....the obvious tool for the job.

Today, with luck and an address James!, I hope to view the donor engine in the donor car. I have decided to transplant a V8 for few reasons, I want to, the existing engine in the car has too many ishoos - the camshaft and valves are rusted (so useless), it is missing too many things so will cost a lot to sort, and I fancy the challenge, those famous last words before the intrepid adventurer ends up on a large monument to folly.

Aha - a V8 after all!
 
Well, I now have what the transplant surgeons refer to as fresh meat. A complete W126 with 4.2 litre M116 V8 in its last iteration, so about 230bhp and 335nm torque in KE Jetronic form. This being part of a car, it has auto box and everything I need for the transplant. It runs through a 2.47 diff (wrong shape for my car) which is the same ratio as the one I've just bought from an early 126. Thanks to JamesFuller for making this so painless. I'll pick it up in a month to move it straight to workshop.

Now to think it all through. The engine is about as light as the M114, so no real change in handling characteristics, but should make for a nice cruiser with my 300lb lighter car.
 
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For people who wish to lust over late 60s MB colours this Pagoda site is excellent. It is genuinely very difficult even beginning to decide, but anything gold, brown, blue, green or red is out.
 
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Well, I now have what the transplant surgeons refer to as fresh meat. A complete W126 with 4.2 litre M116 V8 in its last iteration, so about 230bhp and 335nm torque in KE Jetronic form. This being part of a car, it has auto box and everything I need for the transplant. It runs through a 2.47 diff (wrong shape for my car) which is the same ratio as the one I've just bought from an early 126. Thanks to JamesFuller for making this so painless. I'll pick it up in a month to move it straight to workshop.

Now to think it all through. The engine is about as light as the M114, so no real change in handling characteristics, but should make for a nice cruiser with my 300lb lighter car.

Excellent. As for using the 4.2 you'll be interested to hear my FIL always said it was the sweetest V8 of the era and his ownership covered just about all V8 versions.
 
That is good to know JJJr!.

As the 4.2 seems rather unloved on the market compared to the 5 litre it struck me as a very good compromise, especially as I'm not after a hot rod. 60% more torque should make it a rather enjoyable thing to punt around in and show the odd oik a clean pair of heels. It must be said Druk's 300sld is far better at this as it then chokes them on diesel smoke but you can't have everything!
 
Back to colour for a second - the colour of the rear quarter panel from water ingress - looks much worse than it is, but a marker for care in the future. It also shows the importance of really stripping a car!

w114rearwindow%20rust_zpshug6ptor.jpg
 
The weak spot on the 4.2 M116 V8 is evidently the valve train. Timing chain /Chain guides Camshaft and Cam Followers---- allegedly worse on the 4.2 compared to the 500 or 560------greater valve lift/cam profile ?? Best guarded against by regular oil changes and the newer fully synthetic oils. Here's a thread on how to check altho a quick shufty at the cam lobes would give an indication.
Removing Camshaft Follower / Followers Mercedes-Benz 560 420 M117 M116 V8 SEL SEC SE SL - Auto-Trend Repairs and Service Information Forums
 
and the newer fully synthetic oils.

Highly unlikely they will benefit the cam drive.
The one advantage synthetics have is extremes of temperature capability. The absolute disadvantage they have is lack of solubility which translates into an inability to absorb and retain additive packages. It is the anti-wear component of an additives package that will most benefit the cam chain (along with detergency if there are oil jets to lubricate the chain). An oil with a mineral component can better be expected to have these in the desired quantities.
 
Highly unlikely they will benefit the cam drive.
The one advantage synthetics have is extremes of temperature capability. The absolute disadvantage they have is lack of solubility which translates into an inability to absorb and retain additive packages. It is the anti-wear component of an additives package that will most benefit the cam chain (along with detergency if there are oil jets to lubricate the chain). An oil with a mineral component can better be expected to have these in the desired quantities.
I assume the reason for advocating one of the new "thinner" synthetics would be to combat possible oil starvation of the cam lobes on start up and better heat performance- those V8s tend to run hot underbonnet temperatures after a while but may have the disadvantage of poorer additive solubility as you suggest.:dk:
 

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