Oil change my CLK320-2003. Need help please.

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Thanh55

New Member
Joined
Oct 22, 2008
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6
Dear Experts
I just start to change my CLK 320-2003 oil, but I don't know where to drain the oil out. Underneath the engine have 4 caps, which one should I take it out for drain the old oil. I'm stuck now. Help me please.:confused: :confused:
 
Have you taken the undershield off? I think you are referring the plastic shield...
 
Usual procedure is to syphon the oil out through the dipstick hole- I'm advised that this does a better job than draining from below (surprisingly).

RH
 
Draining it out from the sump is the best method in my opinion. You cannot remove all the deposits which sit at the bottom (carbon etc.) Just warm the engine and leave it to drain for up to an hour, it will just remove more dirt etc.
 
Have you taken the undershield off? I think you are referring the plastic shield...
I did took the undershield off and I saw 4 caps, pic here(the red dot)
PA220163-1.jpg

which one can I use?
Usual procedure is to syphon the oil out through the dipstick hole- I'm advised that this does a better job than draining from below (surprisingly).

RH

How can I do like your advise then? Sorry for a noob question. Many thanks for your help.
 
Draining it out from the sump is the best method in my opinion. You cannot remove all the deposits which sit at the bottom (carbon etc.) Just warm the engine and leave it to drain for up to an hour, it will just remove more dirt etc.

How can I do it or step by step help please? Many thanks for your help.
 
Did you guys mean this one can drain the old oil out?
http://
PA220165.jpg


If it is so what kind of tool can I use to do it? Many thanks for your help.
 
i dont think it will be any of those bolts.

I suggest its probably a bolt that is on the lower "side" of the block, rather than on the bottom itself. It may also be an allan key style bolt (is on a 124 but maybe not on 208)

you are looking for something like this: (not your car)

E320drainplug2.jpg
 
Did you guys mean this one can drain the old oil out?
No, that looks like the ATF dipstick tube..... dont drain it from there!!!

if you suck it out you go via the engine oil dipstick tube.... a W208 clk should have a dipstick
 
I did took the undershield off and I saw 4 caps, pic here(the red dot)

which one can I use?


How can I do like your advise then? Sorry for a noob question. Many thanks for your help.


As SilverSaloon has mentioned the drain plug will be on the side of the sump so have another look.

See here, you're looking for no. 41...

http://www.detali.ru/cat/oem_mb2.asp?TP=1&F=208365&M=112%2E940&GA=722%2E607&CT=M&cat=19Y&SID=01&SGR=045&SGN=05
 
Last edited:
From here

http://tinyurl.com/6nlkgn

it looks like item 41, which looks to me like a normal 13mm hexagonal sump plug. Seems to be on the side of the sump, as usual.

Your car may be different, but here's what I do:

* Get new oil, new filter and new sump-plug washer.

* Get the car onto level ground with the engine properly warmed up.

* Raise the front of the car safely and rest it on ramps or something else solid and safe -- NOT the wheel jack. Note that jacking points are not always the same as the correct support points -- see your manual.

* Unscrew the oil-filter canister top and the oil filler cap.

* Place a large plastic sheet under the engine.

* Get a bowl or tray large enough to cope with the 8 litres or so that will pour out. Position it carefully so that it will catch the initial sideways spurt but also the last drops descending vertically from the hole.

* With rubber/latex gloves on, undo the sump plug slowly until it is just letting oil through and can be further removed by hand. You are highly likely to get oil up your arm if you are not careful.

* Let the oil continue to drain for at least 15 minutes until the last drops are few and far between.

* Lubricate the new washer and put it on the sump plug. Screw the sump plug back in. If you have a torque wrench, you need no more than 25Nm (unless the manual says otherwise). Do not overtighten the plug. (If you were dealing with something you could grip effectively with your hand, 25Nm is not much more than hand tight. And 25Nm is a quarter of the torque needed to tighten wheelnuts.)

* Replace the filter, including the rubber seal. Screw the canister top on. Do not overtighten it: it needs no more than 20Nm -- hand tight.

* Double check that the sump plug is firmly in place.

* Get car back on level ground.

* Fill with new oil. Start with a litre less than the stated capacity. Replace the oil filler cap. Run the engine for a few minutes; wait at least five minutes; check the dipstick. Add more oil if necessary, but do not fill beyond the maximum level (min to max on my cars is 2 litres, but check your manual).

* When done, replace oil filler cap.

* Check level again after a bit of normal use. Always check when warm and always let the engine rest for at least five minutes before checking. Continue to check at, say, monthly intervals.
 
Last edited:
From here

http://tinyurl.com/6nlkgn

it looks like item 41, which looks to me like a normal 13mm hexagonal sump plug. Seems to be on the side of the sump, as usual.

Your car may be different, but here's what I do:

* Get new oil, new filter and new sump-plug washer.

* Get the car onto level ground with the engine properly warmed up.

* Raise the front of the car safely and rest it on ramps or something else solid and safe -- NOT the wheel jack. Note that jacking points are not always the same as the correct support points -- see your manual.

* Unscrew the oil-filter canister top and the oil filler cap.

* Place a large plastic sheet under the engine.

* Get a bowl or tray large enough to cope with the 8 litres or so that will pour out. Position it carefully so that it will catch the initial sideways spurt but also the last drops descending vertically from the hole.

* With rubber/latex gloves on, undo the sump plug slowly until it is just letting oil through and can be further removed by hand. You are highly likely to get oil up your arm if you are not careful.

* Let the oil continue to drain for at least 15 minutes until the last drops are few and far between.

* Lubricate the new washer and put it on the sump plug. Screw the sump plug back in. If you have a torque wrench, you need no more than 25Nm (unless the manual says otherwise). Do not overtighten the plug. (If you were dealing with something you could grip effectively with your hand, 25Nm is not much more than hand tight. And 25Nm is a quarter of the torque needed to tighten wheelnuts.)

* Replace the filter, including the rubber seal. Screw the canister top on. Do not overtighten it: it needs no more than 20Nm -- hand tight.

* Double check that the sump plug is firmly in place.

* Get car back on level ground.

* Fill with new oil. Start with a litre less than the stated capacity. Run the engine for a few minutes; wait at least five minutes; check the dipstick. Add more oil if necessary, but do not fill beyond the maximum level (min to max on my cars is 2 litres, but check your manual).

* When done, replace oil filler cap.

* Check level again after a bit of normal use. Always check when warm and always let the engine rest for at least five minutes before checking. Continue to check at, say, monthly intervals.

I will follow your help in 15' after the old oil clear to the last drop. MAny thanks for your help.
 

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