OK, as promised, some ideas for places to go if you’re staying in Colmar, and a bit about the town itself.
The Alsace and the Vosges are a fascinating area of France which due to its history is unique in terms of its architecture and culture. Alternatively under the control of France and Germany from the latter part of the 19th century, if you’d been born in Alsace in 1870 and lived there all your life you would have swapped nationality four times by the time you were 75. Even today, many from the area think of themselves as Alsatian first, and French second. For some misplaced reason the region is often ignored by the Brit’s as a tourist destination, but over the years I’ve run a number of motorcycle trips there for groups and without exception they’re bowled over by it.
There are lots of other places to see, but the following are some of my favourites. Where GPS locations are given they use the WGS84 datum.
Colmar
The great appeal of Colmar lies in the typical Alsatian character of its streets lined with picturesque flower-decked houses and its Little Venice district unaltered by time and wars.
A Frankish town developed in the Rhine Valley on the banks of the River Lauch, the Emperor Charlemagne, and his son after him, often came to stay. Labourers and craftsmen lived round the royal villa, in the centre of which stood a tower with a dovecote which is said to have given its name to the future city: Villa Columbaria (colombe means dove in French), contracted to Columbra and eventually Colmar.
In spite of these peaceful beginnings, Colmar had a troubled history and often had to fight for its freedom. In 1261 the son of a tanner, Roesselmann, became the local hero when he bravely led the town militia against the bishop of Strasbourg’s soldiers and paid for the city’s freedom with his life. Two centuries later, Colmar, together with other Alsatian towns, temporarily came under the rule of the Duke of Burgundy, Charles Ie Téméraire, and his cruel bailiff, Pierre de Hagenbach. When the latter was at last defeated and taken prisoner, he was condemned to death and the executioner of Colmar was chosen to carry out the sentence. The sword he used is still kept in the Musée d’Unterlinden.
Colmar is the birthplace of several famous artists, among them, Martin Schongauer (1445-91) whose paintings (altarpieces) and engravings were admired by Dürer and Venetian artists of the Renaissance, and Auguste Bartholdi (1834-1904) whose works include the famous Statue of Liberty. Between 1870 and 1914, when Alsace was occupied by Germany, a talented caricaturist and watercolour artist Jean-Jacques Waltz, better known as Hansi, stimulated the town’s passive resistance to German influence and kept alive the traditional image of Alsace with his humoristic drawings of grotesque-looking German soldiers and good-natured, likeable peasants and villagers in regional costume. The famous Musée d’Unterlinden, the Old Town and Petite Venise (Little Venice) are all worth a visit.
Route des Crêtes
This road follows a ridgeline route of 80km, linking the Col du Bonhomme pass (just north-east of Gérardmer) in the north, to the delightful town of Thann, famous for its Rangen wine and Gothic church, in the south. Throughout its run, it is sometimes in Lorraine, and sometimes in Alsace, but symbolically it marks the border between the two, between the Romance and Germanic language worlds. From north to south, the road numbers are D148, D61, D430 and D431.
The Route des Crêtes was created fairly recently when during the First World War the French High Command decided to build a road which would follow the ridge of the Vosges, thus allowing easier access to various Lorraine and Alsatian valleys on both sides of the Vosges. This project allowed for the faster movement of French military troops and their war material in the face of the German opponent. Varying in altitude from a high of 1,325m near the Grand Ballon to a low of 825m at the Col Amic pass, today it is a tourist itinerary offering plunging views of the Alsace Plain, anything up 1,150m beneath it.
Just south of Col de la Schlucht (1,135m) is Le Hohneck, one of the most famous and higher summits (1,362m) of the Vosges. Before WWI, it marked the border between France and Germany and from this vantage point there is an exceptional panorama encompassing the Vosges, the Alsace plain, the Black Forest and, in fine weather, even the Alps. Further south, the road climbs around the Grand Ballon, the highest point of the Vosges (1,424m) which is worth a stop for the splendid views. Nearby are the ruins of Freundstein Castle and Vieil-Armand, site of fierce fighting during the Great War.
Vieil-Armand
The name was given by the soldiers of the First World War to the foothills of the Vosges (Hartmannswillerkopf) which slope steeply down to the Plaine d’Alsace. This strategic position was one of the bloodiest battlefields along the Alsatian front (30,000 French and German soldiers killed). In 1915, attacks and counter attacks were repeatedly launched on its slopes, which were laid waste by artillery. The summit, which was turned into a real fortress, was taken time and again.
The Monument national du Vieil-Armand (open daily 08:00-12:00 and 14:30-18.30) was built over a crypt containing the remains of 12,000 unknown soldiers. A bronze altar, decorated with the emblems of major French towns, stands on a vast platform.
The summit can only be reached on foot (one hour there and back). Walk through the cemetery situated behind the national monument, which contains 1,260 graves and several ossuaries. Follow the central alleyway and the path beyond it. Walk towards the summit of Vieil-Armand (alt 956m) surmounted by a 22m high luminous cross which marks the limit of the French front. Turn right towards the iron cross erected on a rocky promontory to commemorate the volunteers from Alsace-Lorraine. A wide panorama can be had of the Plaine d’Alsace, the Vosges mountains, the Black Forest and, in clear weather, the Alps. Several commemorative monuments are located here including the monument to the Diables Rouges (Red Devils) of the 152nd infantry regiment and the monument to the German mountain troops. Sections of trenches and shelters, mostly German can be visited. On the way down to Uffholtz, the road affords views of the Plaine d’Alsace and the Black Forest.
Vieil-Armand (Hartmannswillerkopf): N47.85842° E7.14861° (N47° 51’ 30.3” E7° 08’ 55.0”)
Route des Vins d’Alsace
Inaugurated in 1953, the Alsace Wine Route is one of the oldest wine routes in France. It winds almost 170km from Marlenheim in the north to Leimbach on the outskirts of Thann in the south of the region, passing through 70 wine-growing villages which are regarded as being some of the most beautiful in the Alsace. Of particular note are the fortified towns and villages of Eguisheim, Kaysersberg, Ribeauvillé, Riquewihr, Andlau, and Obernai.
The route is signposted both south to north and north to south with brown “route des vins d’Alsace” signs, so is easy to follow.
Ribeauvillé
One of the oldest medieval towns in Alsace and once the property of the powerful Ribeaupierre dynasty, Ribeauvillé is an attractive town with 5,000 inhabitants. The town and neighbouring hills are dominated by the majestic ruins of the Three Castles of the Lords of Ribeaupierre. The Grand-Rue (main street) and its picturesque neighbouring streets, lined with 15th- to 18th-century buildings (flowered in season), are scattered with Renaissance fountain-decorated squares. Many buildings are worth a visit, including the Town Hall with its prestigious collection of silver drinking-cups, the Butchers’ Tower (13th-century), the former Corn Exchange, the House of the Fiddlers, etc.
There is a large carpark on the east side of the town, just off the roundabout where the D106 and D406 meet. Park here and walk across the road to explore the town on foot. Note the huge and elaborate Storks’ nests on just about every high point. If you’re lucky, you’ll get a view of young birds being tended by their parents.
Parking - Ribeauvillé: N48.19202° E7.32583° (N48° 11’ 31.3” E7° 19’ 33.0”)
Riquewihr
At the heart of Alsace’s vineyards and surrounded by ramparts, Riquewihr is an almost impossibly pretty medieval village that has been very fortunate to survive war and destruction. Its tiny streets, fortified walls and old houses have preserved their 16th-centrury splendour virtually intact, making for remarkable architectural harmony which attracts in the region of 2-million visitors annually.
Approach from the east on the D3, park in the vicinity of the Hôtel de Ville and then walk through the archway to explore the village. There are many restaurants, patisseries and coffee shops to choose from if you fancy stopping for refreshments, and a couple of museums worth visiting too. The Musée de la Communication based in château des Wurtemberg- Montbéliard (on the left just after walking into the town) traces 2000 years of post and telecommunications and is worth an hour or so, and the Musée de la Tour des Voleurs (a former prison) is also worth a look especially if you have an interest(!) in torture…
Hôtel de Ville - Riquewihr: N48.16622° E7.29997° (N48° 09’ 58.4” E7° 17’ 59.9”)
Neuf-Brisach
Located approximately 10miles east of Colmar on the N415, this octagonal stronghold built by Vauban, Louis XIV’s military engineer and architect, has retained its austere 17th-century character in spite of the damage incurred during the siege of 1870 and the Second World War.
The area within the 2.4km/1.5mi long walls is split into regular plots by a network of streets intersecting at right angles. In the centre stands the Église St-Louis and the vast place d’Armes (parade ground) with a well in each of its four corners. It’s possible to walk along the ditch from the Porte de Belfort (south-west) to the Porte de Colmar (north-west). This pleasant 30-minute stroll reveals the main elements of the fortifications: bartizaned bastions, ravelins etc.
There is parking just through the ramparts on the right if entering from the south-east on the D468, and also all around Place D’Armes Général de Gaulle in the centre of the town.
Parking - Place D’Armes Général de Gaulle: N48.01742° E7.52894° (N48° 01’ 02.7” E7° 31’ 44.2”)
Château du Haut-Koenigsbourg
Haut-Koenigsbourg Castle is one of the most popular monuments in France with 600,000 visitors per year. Built in the 12th-century, the Castle occupied a strategic position from where it watched over the wine and wheat routes to the north and the silver and salt routes from west to east. It was reduced to ruins by the Swedes during the Thirty Years’ War and then abandoned. In 1899, Kaiser Wilhelm II decided to rebuild the castle with the aim of turning it into a museum and at the same time a symbol of Alsace’s return to Germany. Although the Castle has been rebuilt recently, in general it faithfully respects the architecture of the Middle Ages. Inside, the beautifully refined rooms are decorated with mural paintings, Renaissance furniture and enormous cast-iron stoves. There is an impressive collection of weaponry from the Middle Ages in the basement with crossbows, all types of swords and armour. Open from 09:15 to 17:15, parking is on the roads surrounding the castle and is always busy.
Château Du Haut-Koenigsbourg: N48.24972° E7.34608° (N48° 14’ 59.0” E7° 20’ 45.9”)
Cité de l'Automobile and Schlumpf collection
This fabulous collection of 400 vintage cars, some of which are incredibly rare or unique, was assembled by Fritz Schlumpf, the French industrialist whose car collection was secret until 1977 when the cost of his hobby bankrupted the family textile business. The museum highlights over one hundred years of automobile history, from the “ancestors” (1895-1918) and “classic cars” (1918-38) to “modern” vehicles of the post-1945 period. A second section is devoted to racing cars and motoring masterpieces. The sheer scale of this place (not to mention that it houses three of the six Bugatti Royales made) is extraordinary.
Open daily from 10:00 to 18:00, the museum is located at 15 rue de l’épée 68 100 Mulhouse where there is a large parking facility (paid). The entrance fee includes an English-language audio guide.
Parking - Cité de l’Automobile: N47.75941° E7.33161° (N47° 45’ 33.9” E7° 19’ 53.8”)
Le Struthof
After the Armistice of 22nd June 1940, Alsace and Moselle were annexed de facto by the Third Reich. German civil servants were appointed to run the administrations, the German currency and common law were imposed, the factories and mines “Germanised” and the use of French was banned. Starting in 1942, Alsatian and Mosellan men were conscripted into the German army, the Wehrmacht.
Himmler, head of the Gestapo and the police, and Oswald Pohl, head of the principal administrative and economic section of the SS (WVHA), wanted to build camps close to quarries in order to exploit the deportees, as in Mauthausen and Flossenbürg, as part of the Deutsche Erd und Steinwerke (DEST), the SS mining firm set up by Himmler in 1938.
The small village of Struthof, on Mont-Louise, was a tourist resort much appreciated since the early 20th-century, in particular by holidaymakers from Strasbourg who came for its hotel and ski slopes. But it was picked for its seam of pink granite discovered by the SS geologist Colonel Blumberg in September 1940. The first deportees arrived there in two convoys from Sachsenhausen camp on 21st and 23rd May 1941 and they were set to work building the first huts of KL-Natzweiler. Declared a forbidden area, the camp was completed in October 1943.
A labour camp supporting the Nazi war industry, it was also used for medical experiments by Nazi professors from the Reich University of Strasbourg. From 1941 to 1945, KL-Natzweiler was one of the most murderous camps of the Nazi system with nearly 22,000 deportees dying there. The central camp, the only concentration camp in France, was located in the then annexed Alsace département and together with its annexes, scattered over the two sides of the Rhine, it made up a network of nearly 70 camps of varying size. Of the nearly 52,000 detainees of KL-Natzweiler, about 35,000 did not go through the central camp.
In early September 1944, as the Allied armies were advancing, the Nazis decided to evacuate the principal camp and most of the prisoners were transferred to Dachau. Only a few remained in Natzweiler, guarded by a small SS unit and some deportees from the camp annexes had their suffering prolonged in the spring of 1945 on the “Death Marches” during the final throes of the Nazi regime. On 23rd November, the day Strasbourg was liberated, the American army entered the camp, the first example of the Nazi concentration camp system discovered by the Allies in Western Europe.
In 1945, the Allies tried the top-ranking Nazis in Nuremberg and then organised separate trials for the SS of each of the principal camps. Josef Kramer, former commandant of Natzweiler and later commandant of Bergen-Belsen, was tried by the British for his role in the latter camp and subsequently executed. The other SS staff of Natzweiler, arrested or on the run, were sentenced at trials in Wuppertal, Rastatt and Metz.
It takes two-and-a-half to three hours to see the entire site (European Centre of Deported Resistance Members, camp and museum). Plan on approximately one-and-a-half hours for the European Centre, 30 minutes for the KL-Natzweiler Museum and one hour for the historic site.
The tour of the site is self-guided. However, it is advisable to start with the European Centre in order to have an overview of the Resistance movements and deportation in Europe before seeing the particular case of the Natzweiler camp. If the site is crowded, the staff may ask you to begin by visiting either the museum or the buildings below the camp.
There is a small unmanned cafeteria on the first floor of the European Centre of Deported Resistance Members with snack and hot beverage machines where visitors can eat a packed lunch they have brought with them. If preferred, there are a selection of restaurants in Natzwiller (1.5km), Rothau (8km) and Schirmeck (12km).
Camp Du Struthof: N48.45378° E7.25025° (N48° 27’ 13.6” E7° 15’ 00.9”)
