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Question for MR TELEVISION. how to remove 211 tuner

Thanks Dan again, I would go so far to say that an inline fuse of 1amp should be fitted where ever he connects to
Of course, you can never have too much protection on these electrics.

If he uses the connection on the SAM he could also replace fuse 12 with a 1 amp to create the same effect as an inline device.
 
I've got this far guys but to be honest im rather scared splicing into wires now just in case i mess things really bad, were do you live Dan, lol
 
I've got this far guys but to be honest im rather scared splicing into wires now just in case i mess things really bad, were do you live Dan, lol
Probably not that far away from you mate.

You can either use solder or you can use a splicing connector (as used by MB for some repairs, i can get the PN) to make the join.

They basically slide over the wire to be tapped and then you insert the wiring you are installing into the next chamber and compress a blade, this slices the insulation on both wires and makes the connection.

Perfectly safe and should you want to remove the tap you can do, all you need to do afterward is wrap a strip of insulating tape over the area where the insulation has been sliced.

A solder connection is more permanent of course and assures a perfect connection.

A third option is to order a new contact spring for the connector and crimp both the original factory wire and your new wire onto it then install it back into the connector.
 
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Dont touch the orange ones. They are fibre cables.

I'd agree with taking power from the SAM. Brown wires are normally used as the earthing cables NOT power so be careful.
 
Yeah the install on the SAM is just as easy as the install on the tuner but because its 15R it is only active with the ignition so this stops the retrofitted tuner operating constantly and gives a degree of battery protection i.e It stops the car dipping into its reserve all the time.

If i list the wires your looking for then you can pick where you want to make the connection.

The tuner's circuit 30 feed is on plug 1a at the tuner and the wire is red and black, the brown wire is a ground.

The SAM's circuit 15R output is as i said socket 20 pin 2 and the wire is black and grey, thats not the only feed from the SAM but that is the one i would be inclined to use because it does not supply any other consumers and it does support the consumer shut off function for under voltage protection.

Use one of the cars existing ground lugs but pick the one with the least amount of connection's.
 
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Sorry the thinking here is all wrong, the Comand is all time live, and so must the TV be also, you do not want the key in 1 or 2 when watching TV.

I still say that it is best taken from the live feed to the existing tuner.

The spade can be removed from the connector block and soldered on and re fitted to the block.

Sorry for the brown wire bit but nothing would have happened had it been used, and I did say test first. this can be done if you have no means of testing by plugging the digi box in to the aux, turning it all on, and touching the digi box live feed onto the connector block, and the Bush display will come up
 
Malcolm,

Check post 11, sounds clear enough to me mate.

And to be honest if this where my car i would use the SAM for re-assurance so i know when the key is out anything aftermarket is shut down, thats a safety issue as far as i am concerned.

On my SLK i have a data logging system that records various data streams and while it would be handy to have it running all the time to monitor the engine and transmission cool down periods after shutdown i have it on switched power for the re-assurance i was talking about.
 
Malcolm,

Check post 11, sounds clear enough to me mate.

And to be honest if this where my car i would use the SAM for re-assurance so i know when the key is out anything aftermarket is shut down, thats a safety issue as far as i am concerned.

On my SLK i have a data logging system that records various data streams and while it would be handy to have it running all the time to monitor the engine and transmission cool down periods after shutdown i have it on switched power for the re-assurance i was talking about.

But when command is turned off surely that kills the power to the tuner, mine does
 
But when command is turned off surely that kills the power to the tuner, mine does

No mate, COMAND and the tuner are both on circuit 30 so thats a non switched feed.

The difference is they can go into sleep mode whereas an aftermarket component cannot.

Putting the aftermarket tuner on switched power will not stop the factory components from working when the ignition is off.
 
I spliced a 2 meter extension into the Bush remote eye today, there are 3 wires plus a screen. First slide on a 50mm length of heat shrink sleeving. You cut the wires staggered in length so that the joins do not meet all together as this would make a lump, then slide a ½" length of heat shrink sleeving on before you solder up, once all 3 are done you can connect the screen then shrink it all with a heat gun, last slide the large sleeving over and shrink that too.
the top wire in the picture is soldered but not heat shrunk, the 2nd is heat shrunk and the 2nd picture is the finished result
 
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