s203 rear wiper hatch trim removal?

[mad4amanda]

Hi All I need to get to my rear wiper tomorrow to see if its got a supply to it as its not worked since I bought it but the switch lights up and the fuse in the rear number 14 is ok.
I can see lots of very small screws around the edge of the hatch trim do I need to remove all these and does it then just pull off?
any idea which wire should have the feed to it for testing?
can I test the motor any other way?
many thanks
steve

 

[Auto-mobile]

Yes remove the plastic screw and tug the trim down, should be able to check the feeds quite easy, quite common the rear motors.

 

[Chrishazle]

Once you've taken all the screws out, the first piece of trim you remove is the piece at the top each side of the tailgate. It's a "wedge" shaped fitting, so you have to pull it towards you - difficult to explain, but fiddle around and you'll see what I mean. Once those 2 bits are out, the rest of the panel comes out quite easily.

Suggestion - before pulling the trim, open the side storage pocket rear offside and look for the small blue tube that carries the washer water to the rear screen. Follow it towards the rear of the car and look for the rubber joiner - or get someone to try the tailgate wash and see if water comes out there. The joiner often comes apart! There's another joiner on the back of the wiper, plus a really awkward one up behind the glove box.

 

[elite_504]

Yup! I've popped all three at some stage, plus a fourth where it goes through the bulkhead behind the battery.

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/electronics/119838-w203-c32-estate-washer-not-working-fixed.html

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/electronics/122540-w203-help-me-stop-my-washer-hoses-blowing-off.html

 

[Chrishazle]

It's the time of year when we all have to remember to use very low freezing point fluid in the screen wash bottle - especially those of us with estates (my experience while I had the S203 was similar to elite 504's, except I did not suffer the connection behind the battery - which I suspect is the other side of the grommet behind the glovebox). The connections pop when the washer fluid freezes - so get the minus 30C stuff into the system!!

 

[mad4amanda]

Thanks for all the advice I got the trim off today and removed the multi plug, just to be clear my washer pumps water but the wiper does not wipe.
I have a constant 12v over the outer 2 of 3 wires with the switch on, so I think the motor has siezed and failed,any tips on removing and replacing the wiper arm ?
I found the nut under the cover is a small puller necessary to avid levering against the rear screen or is there another way?
I can see its secured inside the bootlid by 3 bolts And I take it once the wiper arm is removed you undo the 3 bolts and it comes out?

As a clue to possible failiure at the point where the washer tube enters the motor there is a rusty residue so it looks like it has corroded internally, its a valeo made one so it must be as well made as their radiators!

Any tips for reinstalling and is there any points to grease or spray to prevent corrosion?
thanks
steve

 

[Stratman]

Whatever you do, don't lever against the glass!

If it doesn't come free with a few taps of a small hammer it's as you say, a small puller will do the job.

 

[mad4amanda]

I got a lovely little puller from clarke today with a knurled knob to use on the wiper arm , it was only £9.59 and I used it to get to £50 for the machine mart vat free promo , so effectively it was free !

 

[ccp]

I had a similar problem with my S203 rear wiper. It hadn't stopped working but would move very slowly acrross the screen, stopping several times along the way.

Looking around the forums it appeared to be a common problem where water finds its way into the gearbox through the rubber seals between the various concentric shafts that make up the wiper mechanism's connection to the outside world.

I took my wiper motor off from the car and stripped it down to find a practically siezed gearbox full of rust. I scraped the worst of it out and then soaked it in WD40. So that I could work it free I stripped the armature out of the motor by undoing the two srews that retain the motor metal housing can and pulled it away to expose the armature. Rotating the armature unscrewed its worm gear from the stuck drive mechanism and removed it, take care not to be too rough and damage the brushes as the commutator comes out from between them.

Now I was able to work the gearbox to grind off the rust using the wiper arm initially and then a cordless drill attached to the motor armature later on. Once the mechanism was moving nicely I washed the gearbox clean with white spirit to rinse out the "grinding paste". Next I packed it with grease and looked to stop water getting into to it.

I found that the O-rings responsible for sealing between the concentric tubes/shafts had perished letting water into the gearbox. I was able to replace the O-rings and as an additional measure I packed the cavities in the tubes with some more grease - just to make sure.

Refitted the whole assembly to the car and it all worked perfectly. I think (and this might be because I was feeling rather pleased with myself) that it works better than it ever has & I saved myself £80 down at the stealers for a new one!

 

[mad4amanda]

excellent Im going to have a go at that next weekend I think !

 

[widewalt]

I decided to have a go and try to repair my jammed rear wiper. I've managed to get the motor assembly out, removed the armature cover and armature but can't see how I can remove the gearbox cover itself. I'm reluctant to apply too much pressure to the cover plate as the right angled water inlet is still attached and I'm not sure how this comes off. Any advice would be most welcome, thanks.