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S212 buying advice

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I debated over the 350 and 250. I went 250 - mainly because i use mine for long Euro trips so the extra economy seemed the "sensible" option. It has plenty enough grunt and all i can hear at speed is wind and tyre noise. To be honest though if buying again i'd just get the best 250 or 350 that was around. (spec, condition and price-wise)
I'll keep an open mind in the variant. We're not high-milage so it's not super-critical from that perspective. The Skoda MPG is crap around town, but it does shift!
 
How are your engine mounts? My E250 always seemed a bit harsh especially low down. It went in for a service and i had a W212 E250 as a courtesy car that had just had new engine mounts. It was like night and day so i got the garage to do my mounts as well while it was in. It's now smooth as anything and the gearchanges also massively improved. Honestly the best £300 i have ever spent on a car! From what ive read engine and trans mounts can go from as little as 50k miles. The challenge i think is that they get progressively worse so you might not really notice it until you drive one with good mounts.
Yeah, funny you should say this as i have been wondering about them. I always switch off the stop/start hoping to extend their life;). They don`t seem that bad but i honestly have not/cant compare it with a car that`s had new one`s. I`ve also lost my long trusted mechanic as he`s retired & i`m in the process of finding a garage i can trust again:rolleyes:.
 
Good to hear. Their Google reviews are, urm, varied... but that's not always a good reflection of the majority experience.
Yeah, I`ve read those too! My mate is a fussy bugga & does`nt suffer fools & speak as you find he was/is pleased with the car & the deal he got. You can only decide yourself when you walk in a place really. Some people are sensible & thanks to the internet the idiots have a wide audience. Having worked in the motor trade (Peugeot/Vauxhall/Austin Rover remember them lol) i know how stupid petty & pig headed some customers can be😃If the internet was around then Austin Rover would have closed within weeks😀.
 
Yeah, funny you should say this as i have been wondering about them. I always switch off the stop/start hoping to extend their life;). They don`t seem that bad but i honestly have not/cant compare it with a car that`s had new one`s. I`ve also lost my long trusted mechanic as he`s retired & i`m in the process of finding a garage i can trust again:rolleyes:.
One noticeable difference i found when i had mine done was that afterwards there was not a hint of vibration when you put your hand on the transmission tunnel. Before it was definitely vibrating. Im not sure if that is more transmission or engine mount related though. But it might give an idea at least.
 
Having spent some more time trawling the interweb, I have a further question... Assuming a similar full history and condition, is a 2013 facelift model at around 110k miles generally a better buy than a preface lift at around 80k miles? I think the last time a bought anything over 50k miles was back then I was about 18!
 
Having spent some more time trawling the interweb, I have a further question... Assuming a similar full history and condition, is a 2013 facelift model at around 110k miles generally a better buy than a preface lift at around 80k miles? I think the last time a bought anything over 50k miles was back then I was about 18!

IIRC the Euro6 diesels came out at or around the time of the facelift. Given the ongoing crackdown on Euro5's it might be worth getting a facelift just for that reason alone.

I wouldn't worry too much on the miles if the car's been properly serviced. I took my last one from 95k to 145k and it was pretty solid and looked great. My current one is barely run in on 79k.
 
IIRC the Euro6 diesels came out at or around the time of the facelift. Given the ongoing crackdown on Euro5's it might be worth getting a facelift just for that reason alone.

I wouldn't worry too much on the miles if the car's been properly serviced. I took my last one from 95k to 145k and it was pretty solid and looked great. My current one is barely run in on 79k.
Hmm, I hadn't considered that. Crazy taxing vehicles off the road for environmental reasons when the considering the impact but hey. It seems the 2013 facelifts are all Euro 5 so I think it would need to be a touch newer even. In the current market, budget won't stretch I don't think. Things to ponder.
 
Hmm, I hadn't considered that. Crazy taxing vehicles off the road for environmental reasons when the considering the impact but hey. It seems the 2013 facelifts are all Euro 5 so I think it would need to be a touch newer even. In the current market, budget won't stretch I don't think. Things to ponder.
I avoided Euro 6 (AdBlue) when hunting for my current car as it just isn't reliable enough for my use case (car often sits unused for weeks at a time, which tends to cause the AdBlue to crystallise and block the system). And France, at least, puts Euro 5 and Euro 6 diesels in the same category for their Crit'Air regional emissions controls.

I have a 2011 E350CDI estate (265bhp) with memory seats/steering wheel/mirrors, ventilated seats, Distronic and blind spot assist. Just came back from another 2000 mile holiday in France, Germany, Austria and Switzerland, which is the kind of thing that I bought it for and it really is brilliant at it: huge space for luggage, quiet, comfortable, plenty of power for climbing mountain passes or for accelerating up to autobahn speeds on ridiculously short slip roads and then cruising quietly at whatever speed I want...

To be honest the 350CDI is slight overkill most of the time in the UK but in Europe it really feels at home. I had a C220CDI (OM651 engine) previously and the OM642's extra smoothness and sense of effortless pace is always welcome even if the additional fuel consumption isn't.
 
The 2013 facelift diesel cars (with the single headlight lens) are all with adblue and are therefore all euro 6. Some of the early facelift cars have been incorrectly identified on the checker sites (eg ulez) as being euro 5 - it can be corrected by supplying the emissions info from the car datasheet. The good news is that the euro 6 cars are more fuel efficient and meet the low emissions zones springing up all over the place. The bad news is that the Mercedes adblue system is problematic, was not designed to be maintained cost effectively, the replacement parts are expensive to buy, fit and diagnose, the parts are in short supply / unavailable and the dealers approach seems to be focussed on profit generation. To cap it all off there are some fault conditions where the car will not start until a fault is rectified.....so your car is off the road waiting for parts that are in short supply. Google Mercedes nox sensor or adblue sensor or adblue tank problem if you want more info. Not for me, I would rather pay the occasional daily emissions zone charge.
 
The 2013 facelift diesel cars (with the single headlight lens) are all with adblue and are therefore all euro 6. Some of the early facelift cars have been incorrectly identified on the checker sites (eg ulez) as being euro 5 - it can be corrected by supplying the emissions info from the car datasheet. The good news is that the euro 6 cars are more fuel efficient and meet the low emissions zones springing up all over the place. The bad news is that the Mercedes adblue system is problematic, was not designed to be maintained cost effectively, the replacement parts are expensive to buy, fit and diagnose, the parts are in short supply / unavailable and the dealers approach seems to be focussed on profit generation. To cap it all off there are some fault conditions where the car will not start until a fault is rectified.....so your car is off the road waiting for parts that are in short supply. Google Mercedes nox sensor or adblue sensor or adblue tank problem if you want more info. Not for me, I would rather pay the occasional daily emissions zone charge.
That sound like a whole barrel of laughs I could do without. We rarely drive in a major city so it's not a big deal. Given the inflated market right now, the extra £££ for a facelift doesn't seem to offer much. I'm looking to swap from a much younger and lower milage car to release some cash, so dependability and value are the big factors for me right now. I should probably be looking at a Toyota Avensis or a Honda Accord, but there isn't a huge price gap and I like a bit quality!
 
The 2013 facelift diesel cars (with the single headlight lens) are all with adblue and are therefore all euro 6. Some of the early facelift cars have been incorrectly identified on the checker sites (eg ulez) as being euro 5 - it can be corrected by supplying the emissions info from the car datasheet. The good news is that the euro 6 cars are more fuel efficient and meet the low emissions zones springing up all over the place. The bad news is that the Mercedes adblue system is problematic, was not designed to be maintained cost effectively, the replacement parts are expensive to buy, fit and diagnose, the parts are in short supply / unavailable and the dealers approach seems to be focussed on profit generation. To cap it all off there are some fault conditions where the car will not start until a fault is rectified.....so your car is off the road waiting for parts that are in short supply. Google Mercedes nox sensor or adblue sensor or adblue tank problem if you want more info. Not for me, I would rather pay the occasional daily emissions zone charge.
So if a car is adblue then it is Euro 6? My 61 plate S204 says "MERCEDES-BENZ C220 SPORT ED125 CDI BLUE-CY A" on the ULEZ site (KP61 BWJ) but attracts ULEZ

Confused of Preston!
 
So if a car is adblue then it is Euro 6? My 61 plate S204 says "MERCEDES-BENZ C220 SPORT ED125 CDI BLUE-CY A" on the ULEZ site (KP61 BWJ) but attracts ULEZ

Confused of Preston!
BLUE-CY is short for "BlueEfficiency", which is just a marketing term for various efficiency improvements such as stop/start or intelligent alternator control; a BlueEfficiency-badged car may have some or all of these features. I believe that the term was used on Euro 5 vehicles but I'm happy to be corrected on that. It is not the same as AdBlue (a common name for the fluid used with Selective Catalytic Reduction, which is an emissions control technology for treating diesel exhausts to reduce NOx, to help achieve Euro 6). Mercedes marketed SCR/AdBlue for a while as "BlueTec".

I don't know why environmental features get marketed as blue rather than green....
 
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So if a car is adblue then it is Euro 6? My 61 plate S204 says "MERCEDES-BENZ C220 SPORT ED125 CDI BLUE-CY A" on the ULEZ site (KP61 BWJ) but attracts ULEZ

Confused of Preston!
You can't achieve euro6 standard without adblue system afaik
 
BLUE-CY is short for "BlueEfficiency", which is just a marketing term for various efficiency improvements such as stop/start or intelligent alternator control; a BlueEfficiency-badged car may have some or all of these features. I believe that the term was used on Euro 5 vehicles but I'm happy to be corrected on that. It is not the same as AdBlue (a common name for the fluid used with Selective Catalytic Reduction, which is an emissions control technology for treating diesel exhausts to reduce NOx, to help achieve Euro 6). Mercedes marketed SCR/AdBlue for a while as "BlueTec".

I don't know why environmental features get marketed as blue rather than green....
Ta

I was wondering why I've never needed to fill up with AdBlue!
 
OK, so all facelifts are EURO6, and the AdBlue systems is potentially bothersome. That's helpful to understand.

I have just realised that there are two variants of the automatic gearbox. Tiptronic with the selection in the centre console and Gtronic with the selector on a stalk. I think? Is one preferable over the other in terms of the drive and for reliability?
 
OK, so all facelifts are EURO6, and the AdBlue systems is potentially bothersome. That's helpful to understand.

I have just realised that there are two variants of the automatic gearbox. Tiptronic with the selection in the centre console and Gtronic with the selector on a stalk. I think? Is one preferable over the other in terms of the drive and for reliability?

All the 500's came with the stalk change. I really like it as it's very intuitive and frees up space in the centre console area.

As far a pre- and post-facelift cars go, mine is pre-facelift and is still a very nice place to sit.

The only thing that ages it inside is the Comand screen. Various options exist to add Android alternatives. I bit the bullet and got ComandUK to fit an IMI1000 which transforms the look and the functionality.
 
OK, so all facelifts are EURO6, and the AdBlue systems is potentially bothersome. That's helpful to understand.

I have just realised that there are two variants of the automatic gearbox. Tiptronic with the selection in the centre console and Gtronic with the selector on a stalk. I think? Is one preferable over the other in terms of the drive and for reliability?
Mine has the selector on the stalk (mine is 2011). You also have the flappy paddles on the steering wheel but i rarely use these tbh. Ive not used the other version so can't comment. I did try a manual as the spec of the car was otherwise fantastic - but i would steer well clear. It was horrible, and most likely very difficult to move on when the time comes!
 
At around 10 year / 100k miles I had to change all made of plastic cooling related parts:
Coolant pump
Oil cooler housing
Oil filter housing
As others have said at that age rear self-levelling can give up. I had to change only self levelling links.
Gearbox oil should have been changed at least once for that age.
If you manage to find one with some/all of above work done you’ll be safe for another 10 years.
 

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