So, I bought a R107 :)

[Druk]

i think the spoiler was on it from factory - i've had a little look at the holes in the bootlid for it and they look like original holes, not some dodgy drill job. could be wrong though.

On reflection are probably right here and it's something to do with the US spec business.
All that emissions control stuff is a new one on me on a 280.

 

[SilverSaloon]

does the OVP have a fuse in it like the 124s?

 

[stats007]

107s are money pits if you get a bad one - stunning cars if you get lucky. Olly had one in recently - was really only fit for the scrapyard...

The rear spoiler was only ever standard fitment to the 500 and 560 in the US - though optionable on post '86 cars as Derek says. It's still horrible regardless .

 

[wobbly]

Nicest possible colour for a 107 imho next to silver that is.

Am I forgiven yet?

Just wanted to see what you would say this time.

Maybe.

 

[Druk]

Maybe.

Don't tell me I've got to really grovel?

 

[ecossebev]

Really nice SS. Sounds like you and your wallet are going to be busy over the the next few months.

Just out of curiosity....Jennifer Hart (Hart to Hart) and Pam Ewing (Dallas) had 107's (sure Pam had a red one similar to yours), anyone remember them in any other TV series?

 

[talbir]

Super car ! Classic model, classic colour !!

Congrats !!

talbir

 

[SilverSaloon]

OVP is in drivers footwell above fuse box. Take cardboard cover off to access. You will need to go to the shops for a double jointed neck. Welcome to the world of the 107.

hi

looked up there - cant see anything with a fuse so i guess it doesnt have one..... any idea what one is the OVP? there are 4 different relays up there

 

[grober]

hi

looked up there - cant see anything with a fuse so i guess it doesnt have one..... any idea what one is the OVP? there are 4 different relays up there

hows your German? UBERSPANNUNGSCHUTZ=OVERVOLTAGEPROTECTION RELAY 51

edit:- I'm not sure why you think the OVP is a problem tho??

 

[grober]

You may also find the following useful if you use the google translate facility.
http://www.107sl-freunde.de/index.php
and
http://64.233.183.102/translate_c?h...n&sa=N&usg=ALkJrhg9fnRH4KglLRni8NBIdu5NDBGPRA already translated

 

[SilverSaloon]

hows your German? UBERSPANNUNGSCHUTZ=OVERVOLTAGEPROTECTION RELAY 51

edit:- I'm not sure why you think the OVP is a problem tho??

Thanks fror the links/image Grober. Reason i thought OVP is because the cars ABS light doesnt illuminate at all, BUT ABS does work (i tested it)

Of course, this could be a bulb gone in the dash, or something more sinister, but I know that on the W124 a broken OVP relay often causing ABS issues and cold starting problems.

I've located the warm up valve in the engine bay. Are there any tests i can do on this to verify whether it is functioning or not? Can they be fixed or is a new one the only option????

also, anyone know where the rotary idle valve is located on my engine? Please excuse my lack of knowlege!

 

[grober]

The warm up regulator works by modifying the control pressure on the injection fuel distributor to richen the mixture slightly during warm up. It's essentially an electromechanical device with diaphrams, an electrically heated bimetal strip and springs so lots of things to go wrong or get a bit tired. Its action can be modified by changes in the inlet manifold pressure also so some models have an additional inlet vacuum line connection also. You could probably check its operation by monitoring the control pressure with a pressure gauge T'd into the control line It would start lower than normal and as the engine warmed up rise to the full operating control pressure set by the primary pressure regulator. Quoted figures give a control pressure of 0.5 bar cold rising to about 3.7 bar when warm. You need to get a hold of a guy who is familiar with the workings of these older electromechanical systems with the right test equipment to check the system is controlling the mixture correctly as the car starts and warms up. I don't think your car will have a rotary idle valve but a simpler electro mechanical device ( possibly bimetal strip type). You should be looking for some rubber pipework (about 1inch od) that "bridges" the throttle plate with its connections-- the downstream end will probably be obvious the upstream or [pre throttle plate] end may originate in a lot of extra plumbing pipes like crankcase breather etc. You will possibly see this plumbing more clearly when you remove the air filter-if its one of these big pancake jobs?

 

[alibally]

Well done Grober. The 280SL has a "mechanical" injection system ,so no ecu apart from the fuel pump relay to speak of. The warm up regulator would be my first port of call if you have poor cold starting. If I remember correctly its down the back of the engine. I dont tink its that cheap either.

 

[SilverSaloon]

i found the OVP relay which was behind the glovebox. It had a 10amp fuse in it which was fine, so I assume its working correctly. Looked the same as my 124 one so i may swap around to see if there is any difference to elliminated this.

Cold start valve needs checking aswell

 

[SilverSaloon]

OK, been using the car for a few days now; already fixed a few things.... these are the current/latest issues it has i know about:

- cold start issue
- various bodywork rust areas
- front bumper mount inside wing broken (bumper loose here), requiring repair
- broken electric aerial (new one on order). Currently using a coat hanger!
- cruise control was working on way home but no longer works
- dash lights broke thismorning (dimmer switch in cluster probably) - EDIT: WORKING AGAIN!
- ABS works but no ABS warning light comes on on dash - i'm hoping a bulb, but not that lucky
- steering wheel off centre - seller reckoned track rod ends need replacing but car doesnt pull
- some wheel bolts are not the correct type (only need 4 new ones though)
- battery went flat a few days ago - doesnt charge up well via home battery charger
- annoying rattle from hard top
- passenger wing mirror glass needs clipping back on properly
- 1 fog lamp bulb out
- inside of headlamp lenses need cleaning and uprated bulbs fitted (lights are poor!)
- small hole in exhaust needs patching/repairing
- leather could do with touching up with some leather paint stuff

 

[bigyin1]

nice car

 

[grober]

i found the OVP relay which was behind the glovebox. It had a 10amp fuse in it which was fine, so I assume its working correctly. Looked the same as my 124 one so i may swap around to see if there is any difference to elliminated this

Be careful swopping OVP's about since their innards and the circuits they control were changed from time to time. That's roughly what the German text details on that picture I posted. You might end up damaging your good W124 OVP so unless they both have EXACTLY the same (or documented equivalent) part number I would not risk it. Your ABS bulb is probably blown or has been removed?

 

[Ade B]

Be careful swopping OVP's about since their innards and the circuits they control were changed from time to time. That's roughly what the German text details on that picture I posted. You might end up damaging your good W124 OVP so unless they both have EXACTLY the same (or documented equivalent) part number I would not risk it. Your ABS bulb is probably blown or has been removed?

With my recent OVP issues, the fuses were fine on the duff one replaced so I wouldn't assume that the OVP is OK based on the fuses alone. Also, when the relay packs in the ABS light stays on, cold start is affected and ABS no longer functions. Don't know if 107s behave the same way..

Looks like you have a nice list of niggles to solve, I'm currently waiting for my dash rheostat to turn up..... keep us posted.


Ade

 

[SilverSaloon]

With my recent OVP issues, the fuses were fine on the duff one replaced so I wouldn't assume that the OVP is OK based on the fuses alone. Also, when the relay packs in the ABS light stays on, cold start is affected and ABS no longer functions. Don't know if 107s behave the same way..

Looks like you have a nice list of niggles to solve, I'm currently waiting for my dash rheostat to turn up..... keep us posted.


Ade

apparently you can fix the rheostat.... i'm hoping 107 is the same as its £70 for one for a R107. I wonder if you can just bypass the dimmer and hardwire it to not dim anymore....?

heres a link to how to fix one:

http://articles.mbz.org/instrument/dimmer/

i also fixed my 124's dimmer by soldering the rear back on (thread on here somewhere).

the OVP in the R107 has a 201 part number so i guess its not the original OVP anyway. not sure on the part number on my 124 so would have to check.

reason i checked it as i thought, maybe if its duff then the abs light would be on all the time, plus cold start issues, so previous owner may have just removed the abs bulb.... but looks like the problem is more in depth. the abs does seem to physically work though. i'm hoping its just a bulb but dont know how to remove the R107 instrument cluster yet.

i wanted a little rolling project car so its ideal. price i paid does reflect the issues it has i believe, so i bought knowing/expecting quite a few little issues. all stuff i want to try and fix myself over time.... main issue is that everything for the R107 seems bloody expensive!!

 

[Druk]

The reason I said that the OVP is in the drivers footwell is because that's where it is in an '81 and an '88 R107. They seem to shift these things around willy nilly. Maybe it's where it is in yours is because of that 'US spec' thing. Who knows. An '88 has a 126 part number so no reasoning there either. Maybe the ABS fault is because you have the wrong relay as Grober said.
If your cluster is the same as mine it just hooks out the same as them all. The wheel needs to come off. The speedo is electronic so no cable.