• The Forums are now open to new registrations, adverts are also being de-tuned.

using wet and dry paper on your car

peterchurch

Active Member
Joined
Sep 6, 2004
Messages
934
Location
Somerset
Hi,
I got a total b1tch of a stonechip a while back (3 3mm chips through to the metal) I have the paint for my car and I purchaced a 0 art prush and have started to touch the chips in, the question is that is it obvious that the final job will be uneven has anyone got any idea how to use wet and dry to finish the car?

Best regards,

Peter
 
starting with a medium/fine paper work the "raised" new paint in small circular motions until it's level with the surrounding area - for a stone chip work on an area about the size of a penny. Then use a fine paper and gently smooth the area until it loooks like the new paint and the laquer have been rubbed with wire wool - sort of smooth matte. Then use a cutting compound to polish the area and bring everything up to a nice shine before finishing with your normal polish

HTH

Andy
 
andy_k said:
starting with a medium/fine paper work the "raised" new paint in small circular motions until it's level with the surrounding area - for a stone chip work on an area about the size of a penny. Then use a fine paper and gently smooth the area until it loooks like the new paint and the laquer have been rubbed with wire wool - sort of smooth matte. Then use a cutting compound to polish the area and bring everything up to a nice shine before finishing with your normal polish

HTH

Andy
Cheers :) I will give it a go :D
 
same sort of principle as you used to get rid of the scratch last week but wait a day or so to allow the touch up paint to really set hard before starting on it with wet and dry paper.

Halfords sell a brilliant little "finishing sponge" for jobs like these, two sides are medium and the others are fine - they cost about a quid each and are really useful

Andy

Andy
 
andy_k said:
same sort of principle as you used to get rid of the scratch last week but wait a day or so to allow the touch up paint to really set hard before starting on it with wet and dry paper.

Halfords sell a brilliant little "finishing sponge" for jobs like these, two sides are medium and the others are fine - they cost about a quid each and are really useful

Andy

Andy

Cool :) I need to get some clear coat so I will no doubt end up in there tomorrow :)
 
For stone chips I used to use the touch up paint then a cloth soaked with T-cut and a flat hard support.

I used to use a small aerosol plastic cap as my 'block' and only big enough to do a nice job. Care must be taken though not to rub too hard as you can take off the original paint.

John
 
I must add that if you are in any doubt as to your ability - I wouldn't risk it. You stand to risk doing more damage than you started with. If you go through the laquer it will start to get expensive.

One method that can be quite well utilised is to superglue very fine wet and dry paper to the rubber tip of a pencil. Makes for a very neat touch up repair. :)

Will
 
/\Can be seen in the Autopia detailing guide, amongst other places. :)/\
 
peterchurch said:
Cool :) I need to get some clear coat so I will no doubt end up in there tomorrow :)


Don't use Halfords laquer. It doesn't withstand UV radiation and it goes yellow.
 
Will said:
I must add that if you are in any doubt as to your ability - I wouldn't risk it. You stand to risk doing more damage than you started with. If you go through the laquer it will start to get expensive.

Totally 100% agree. You can make a terrible potato salad out of one very small chip.

I cringe at the thought of wet and dry, but your tip about the super glue and rubber tip sounds good.

I am always amazed how the alleged same colour invariably looks different.

Good night everyone,
John
 
glojo said:
Totally 100% agree. You can make a terrible potato salad out of one very small chip.

I cringe at the thought of wet and dry, but your tip about the super glue and rubber tip sounds good.

I am always amazed how the alleged same colour invariably looks different.

Good night everyone,
John

Unfortunately there are a number of factors that play against you when matching paint :(

1) the sodding factory can have more that one revision of the same colour (same code :eek: )

2) Your car will fade over time meaing that even if what is in the tin is the right revision of the right colour you car may have changed :(

3) If you do a wicked job and polish it all up nice the rest of your car will look dull as the top coat pick up millions of scratches while the new bit will be glossy and mirror like :(

The days of bad colour matches have gone apart from a few places but its still hard to find reasonable shops to do the work for you :)

I Have budgeted a blow over for the front of the car once a year to keep the chips down but its just nice to get rid of the nasty ones in between :D
 
Will said:
I must add that if you are in any doubt as to your ability - I wouldn't risk it. You stand to risk doing more damage than you started with. If you go through the laquer it will start to get expensive.

One method that can be quite well utilised is to superglue very fine wet and dry paper to the rubber tip of a pencil. Makes for a very neat touch up repair. :)

Will


Use a paper hole punch (the type of thing used for punching paper to put in files) to make lots of little discs these can then be stuck on your rubber.

The Autopia e-book gives loads of great tips on stuff like this. Use the link below, to download.



http://www.autopia-carcare.com/lib/autopia/goldfish.exe

The Autopia Guide to Detailing is a Windows executable ebook. Click the link to download and save the file to your Windows Desktop. Click the red car icon to run the book. You will need to register your copy to get a password that unlocks all chapters. The author, David Bynon, sends free updates 2-3 times a year.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom