Skd884
MB Enthusiast
- Joined
- Sep 13, 2017
- Messages
- 4,105
- Car
- i3
£1.89
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I had to pay £209.9 for that the other day.£1.99 /L for V pwr diesel last night
Last time it was that price it was a major event and a constant topic of conversation , it seems to be the norm now.
K
Haven’t done many miles in the GL63 just recently but it’s one of the main reasons I was less fussed about Shell’s super unleaded and happily used Momentum 99 when passing a Tesco filling station, to me it was around £20 a tankful - not huge saving I guess but it all adds up. Some Shell stations were more reasonable though and when out and about I’d just fill up wherever.I just called into a Shell station as the unleaded price looked reasonable at 162.9p but was stunned that when I started filling the VPower price was 196.9p, so a 34p per litre premium! Shocker is an understatement. I put the bare minimum in to get me to the next Shell station.
Circa £0.70/litre and 100+ octane.I should have kept the E55K estate that ran on gas,
Still remember seeing it in Cornwall - what a stunner…. regret not buying it to this day!Yep, was 49.9p/litre locally when I had it, would do about 150 miles on £20 of gas which for a torquey 400hp+ car wasn’t bad
Also useful on long journeys, had pretty decent range
Agreed - Shell are robbing people blind for benefits* that are heresy at best these days (*benefits over other 99 RON fuels). Momentum @ £166.9, V-Power @ £189.9 .... go figure.Tesco Momentum. Used it forever with no issues and currently a huge price difference to v power. At least in my area.
But how much better are they for over regular fuel ?Which is a shame, because the fuel additives in premium fuels are important, they do work,
But how much better are they for over regular fuel ?
Is a back to back test been published ?
Is regular fuel so poor it needs extra additives or are we sold “premium peace of mind” again ?
Even the most basic supermarket fuels have detergents and other additives these days. The main thing you are paying for with V power/ Momentum etc is the higher octane so your car (if designed for it will) run at its best rather than the knock sensors retarding the ignition to stop detonation (pinking). Running a car that's designed for 95 Ron....which is nearly all normal petrol cars ......on V power etc will gain you basically nothing at all (with the possible exception of more cleaning additives than 95) as the car will not be able to advance its timing enough to take advantage of it....all it will do it lighten you wallet. I recently found a good test (looking for it now) of super market Vs premium brand fuels......the measurable differences where tiny....so tiny that they put that down to the variables in testing.Just a reminder that everyone can make 97-99 Octane fuel, and that we all know that it will have no tangible benefits whem used in engines designed for 95 Octane fuel.
However, the reason fuel manufacturers can claim that their fuels are better than others, isn't the Octane rating, but the secretive additive packs.
Fuel manufacturers develop their own additive packs and keep the formula inder wraps as a trade secrets.
The end result is that consumers have no way of knowing if fuel A's additive pack is better than fuel B's.
Ultimately, it's all down to how much you trust the fuel manufacturersl's claim (and marketing material).
For this reason, some people are (understandably) put off premium fuels altogether and simply buy the cheapest fuel they can find.
Which is a shame, because the fuel additives in premium fuels are important, they do work, and they are good for the engine. Some more transparency regarding what additives exactly are added to the premium fuels would have helped boost consumers' confidence in these products.
Even the most basic supermarket fuels have detergents and other additives these days. The main thing you are paying for with V power/ Momentum etc is the higher octane so your car (if designed for it will) run at its best rather than the knock sensors retarding the ignition to stop detonation (pinking). Running a car that's designed for 95 Ron....which is nearly all normal petrol cars ......on V power etc will gain you basically nothing at all (with the possible exception of more cleaning additives than 95) as the car will not be able to advance its timing enough to take advantage of it....all it will do it lighten you wallet. I recently found a good test (looking for it now) of super market Vs premium brand fuels......the measurable differences where tiny....so tiny that they put that down to the variables in testing.
Dont forget that if you visit your local refinery you will see fuel tankers from every fuel vender you can think of....this has happened for years to help with fuel logistics.....so the basic fuel (95/97/99) is the same (octane aside) whichever brand you use.....the additives are added at virtually homeopathic quantities once in the tanker before its delivered.
I would happily pay more for better fuel.....if I could find any unbiased evidence that it did anything for the performance or longevity of the engine.....something that does not seem to exist. "Super" types pf diesel are even more of a joke apparently.....derv is pretty much just derv.
There also seems a little confusion in names Premium brand gets confused with premium fuel. Premium brand are just names (Shell, Esso, BP etc)....but premium fuel is the normal 95 Ron stuff....Super is the 97 and up stuff. In many other country's you can be Regular fuel.....but this tends to be 92 octane......and many modern cars would lose power running on that.
The Myths & Facts of Supermarket Fuel | Allstar Cards
Separate myth from fact. Is branded supermarket fuel from Shell or Esso better than petrol and diesel sold at Tesco, Sainsbury’s, Morrisons?www.allstarcard.co.ukIs All Petrol & Diesel The Same? – SimpleMotoring.co.uk
www.simplemotoring.co.uk
There are specs and tests for oils to meet and data published to show which oils meet which specs.With regards to the comparative effectiveness of the various fuel additives - given that (as I previously mentioned) there's no transparency in this area, it's anyone's guess..... it's a bit like engine oil: is the expensive brand A really 'better' than the cheaper brand B? Again, it's all down to how much you trust (or distrust) the manufacturer's claims.
Fixed that for you; the answer is a clear and unequivocal "No". The Casio is better because it's more accurate...Is a £3,000 Rolex really 10 times better than a £30 Casio?
I dont think you buy a Rolex to know the time, a Rolex is a superb piece of crafted jewellery, also a very good investment, I can kick myself for not buying that champagne faced Daytona 4 years ago for £10,000, now worth £15,000 plus.Miles more accurate.....a Rolex or any other certified chronometer can lose -4 or gain +6 seconds a day and still be within chronometer specs. Many cheap digital and quartz movements wont do that in a year! ........but like you say....that's fine if you just want the time.
Chrono requirements.
1. Average Daily Rate: -4 or +6 seconds/day
2. Mean Variation In Rates: 2 seconds/day
3. Greatest Variation In Rates: 5 seconds/day
4. Difference Between Rates In Horizontal And Vertical Positions: -6 or +8 seconds/day
5. Largest Variations In Rates: 10 seconds/day
6. Thermal Variation: +-0.6 seconds/degrees Celsius
7. Rate Resumption: +-5
Anyway....back on topic!!!
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