grahamf505
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 24, 2004
- Messages
- 21
Tried to fit my replacement timing chain tonight after taking the rocker cover off, etc., the weekend. I bought an original replacement chain from Mark Cosovich so I know its a good one (Jiwis). I understood from the Peter Russek manual that what I needed to do was to split the existing chain( which was easy with my angle grinder) and then fit the new link (just the one side with the pins on it I thought) between the old chain and the new and pull the new one through whilst one person turns the crank pully and the other holds the new chain down on the cam sprocket and keeps tension on the old one as it feeds up from the crank sprocket.
What I found was that the new link started to come out with the new chain only pulled halfway through the guide rail and then it jammed. I managed to get the whole thing back by carefully rotating the crank in the opposite direction and pulling the chain back round. I got the link out safely and then dropped the old chain down the timing case! Luckily I was able to fish the chain back out and then pull it back through the upper guide rail and get it back onto the sprocket where its temporarily held with wire. Phew.....that was lucky...Of course, the intermediate sprocket is now out of synch with the rest of the sprockets as it turns fairly freely, but I have got the camshaft and crank all back and lined up with no1 cylinder so I know this bit is back as it was.
Whats clear now is that there is no way I'm going to get that chain round without temporarily fitting the other side of the link so it all holds together, otherwise its just going to fall out half way round and then I'm in real trouble! On my replacement chain, the link with the pins is hardened steel whilst the link that goes on the other side is copper and is a tight fit over the pins (not fitted it yet). The only think I can see I can do to stop it all falling apart is to press on the copper link plate to temporairly join the old chain to the new. Then I can pull it round and once completely pulled round, push the link with the pins on back out and then join the two ends of the new chain together with the link with pins, the copper link and then "peen" the pins over to make sure its secure...
1st question......does this make sense? I'm not going to risk trying to pull the new chain round with an open link despite what the manual sems to suggest. Thats crazy!
2nd question...given the intermedaiate shaft has turned, I'll need to take the distributor out and re-fit it as the distributor will not now be sending the sparks at the right point in time (given my chain fell off). It looks like a gear drive to the distributor, so no problems there hopefully, but in my manual it says line up the tip of the rotor with the mark on the distributor, but currently I can't make out either? Any ideas on this anyone? I'm assuming as it is a gear drive from the shaft to the distributor there is no alignment to set between the gear on the intermediate shaft and the other timing gears (i.e. crank and camshaft sprocket)|. If there is, I might be in trouble.
Any help and advice greatly welcomed as always...
Graham
What I found was that the new link started to come out with the new chain only pulled halfway through the guide rail and then it jammed. I managed to get the whole thing back by carefully rotating the crank in the opposite direction and pulling the chain back round. I got the link out safely and then dropped the old chain down the timing case! Luckily I was able to fish the chain back out and then pull it back through the upper guide rail and get it back onto the sprocket where its temporarily held with wire. Phew.....that was lucky...Of course, the intermediate sprocket is now out of synch with the rest of the sprockets as it turns fairly freely, but I have got the camshaft and crank all back and lined up with no1 cylinder so I know this bit is back as it was.
Whats clear now is that there is no way I'm going to get that chain round without temporarily fitting the other side of the link so it all holds together, otherwise its just going to fall out half way round and then I'm in real trouble! On my replacement chain, the link with the pins is hardened steel whilst the link that goes on the other side is copper and is a tight fit over the pins (not fitted it yet). The only think I can see I can do to stop it all falling apart is to press on the copper link plate to temporairly join the old chain to the new. Then I can pull it round and once completely pulled round, push the link with the pins on back out and then join the two ends of the new chain together with the link with pins, the copper link and then "peen" the pins over to make sure its secure...
1st question......does this make sense? I'm not going to risk trying to pull the new chain round with an open link despite what the manual sems to suggest. Thats crazy!
2nd question...given the intermedaiate shaft has turned, I'll need to take the distributor out and re-fit it as the distributor will not now be sending the sparks at the right point in time (given my chain fell off). It looks like a gear drive to the distributor, so no problems there hopefully, but in my manual it says line up the tip of the rotor with the mark on the distributor, but currently I can't make out either? Any ideas on this anyone? I'm assuming as it is a gear drive from the shaft to the distributor there is no alignment to set between the gear on the intermediate shaft and the other timing gears (i.e. crank and camshaft sprocket)|. If there is, I might be in trouble.
Any help and advice greatly welcomed as always...
Graham
