You could well do - the trick is probably to start the car with the IM off and get it warm. But the trick is also not to have the pressure to have to have it finished - thats when mr patience runs out and snap goes the glow plug.....
W124 OM606. Taking inlet manifold off prep. what to anti-seize
You could well do - the trick is probably to start the car with the IM off and get it warm. But the trick is also not to have the pressure to have to have it finished - thats when mr patience runs out and snap goes the glow plug.....
Dieselman
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You will. Glowplugs takes an hour and a half normally.
SilverSaloon
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ah, but not on the same car!! i was hoping to remove the IM and do the plugs on the saloon (which one or more of are bust - light is on). get it all back together and then take the IM off the estate and do the delivery valves.
the GP's on the estate are OK and renewed about 10,000 ago now.
i am having trouble sourcing a fuel tank strainer so that job might have to wait for another day but at least it means i can spend more time focusing on getting this one right.
No idea when the plugs were last done or if they put anti-seize on them. Sure as sugar i will put some copperslip on the threads when i put the new ones in, not that i ever plan to touch them again as they should stay good for the rest of the vehicles life.
Dieselman
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You don't need a new strainer, just wash it clean. Put coppaslip on the Gp taper as well, it will help it seal.
spock500
Active Member
I would also set some time aside to clean the inside of both the manifold and the crossover pipe -
If the EGR hasnt been blanked off then chances are it will be full of sticky deposits - I used neat diesel and three flue brushes available from plumbers merchants to get them both clean.
Worth doing to let the engine breath easily.
If you have the crossover pipe off would recommend blanking EGR to limit the above.
If the EGR hasnt been blanked off then chances are it will be full of sticky deposits - I used neat diesel and three flue brushes available from plumbers merchants to get them both clean.
Worth doing to let the engine breath easily.
If you have the crossover pipe off would recommend blanking EGR to limit the above.
Everyone seems to recommend blanking off the EGR - is there a link to a "how to" to do this somewhere? Mine is still connected - although I did clean the cross over pipe and IM - like the idea of the flue brushes - I left mine in soak in a big tub of diesel overnight.
Dieselman
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Pull the vac pipe off and plug it.
will do this but not sure how i would clean. Is carb cleaner any good at blasting this rubbish off? It has been v.effective at removing sooty deposits in throttle bodies but that was on a petrol....
is there a way of making sure the EGR is closed (or open??) before i disconnect it by plugging the line?
anything else useful to do while this little lot is apart?
Dieselman
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Use bio-diesel, caustic soda, diesel, degreaser, etc.
The EGR valve is spring loaded closed.
Number_Cruncher
Active Member
>> anything else useful to do while this little lot is apart?
- Make sure the vacuum pipes and connections for the resonance flaps, variable valve on the IP, and the connection to the vac pipe which goes down to the modulator on the gearbox are in good condition
- Make sure the resonance flaps move freely, and their diaphragms are sound
- Check the engine wiring harness for the condition of the insulation - I found the insulation was cracking up near to the coolant temperature sensor near the back of the cylinder head, and in the wires connected to the resonance flap changeover solenoids.
- Check and rectify any leaking IP gaskets. This is one I missed, the rear gasket on my injector pump is leaking oil, and so, next time the manifold comes off, I'll be repairing that
- lubricate the ball ends of the throttle linkage with a little ATF
- Make sure the vacuum pipes and connections for the resonance flaps, variable valve on the IP, and the connection to the vac pipe which goes down to the modulator on the gearbox are in good condition
- Make sure the resonance flaps move freely, and their diaphragms are sound
- Check the engine wiring harness for the condition of the insulation - I found the insulation was cracking up near to the coolant temperature sensor near the back of the cylinder head, and in the wires connected to the resonance flap changeover solenoids.
- Check and rectify any leaking IP gaskets. This is one I missed, the rear gasket on my injector pump is leaking oil, and so, next time the manifold comes off, I'll be repairing that
- lubricate the ball ends of the throttle linkage with a little ATF
spock500
Active Member
Dont forget the manifold seals if someone hasnt mentioned them already - the manifold bolts directly to the head and these seals rely on being compressed to keep a good seal as opposed to a traditional gasket where it is under compression between the jointing surfaces.
Number_Cruncher
Active Member
>>Dont forget the manifold seals...
Do you mean the large O ring seals at each end of the crossover pipe?
Do you mean the large O ring seals at each end of the crossover pipe?
Dieselman
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He means the single metal gasket. 2.5 litre engines use O rings instead being pauper spec.
No need to replace the gasket on a 3.0 litre.
No need to replace the gasket on a 3.0 litre.
i have a new gasket to replace when i put the manifold back on. it is a long single piece thing.
is this what you mean?
do i need to grease the gasket or faces of the manifold when i put i back together or should it be clean and dry? if yes, what type of grease?
is this what you mean?
do i need to grease the gasket or faces of the manifold when i put i back together or should it be clean and dry? if yes, what type of grease?
Dieselman
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Clean and dry, it's a rubber coated stainless steel gasket. In reality there is no need to replace it as it has pressings to fill the gap.
Just rub off the rubber..
Just rub off the rubber..
spock500
Active Member
Sorry, I was thinking of my own engine which is a smaller version of yours but there are some differences, one being the type of gasket used.
Good luck and don't forget the piccies
Good luck and don't forget the piccies
ok real time update.
crossover pipe and plastic cover is off. now holes exposed which i am guess hold the injectors (fuel line connects the first from filter and rest connected from the one in front).
the end injector (?) seems to be sitting in a bath of liquid. i have been running on 50%-70% veg for past 300 miles and doesnt feel or smell like that. not expert in what diesel smells like but it smells paint strippery to me.
what is going on? could it be a slow fuel leak?
As with the other injectors this one has a fuel in and fuel out nozzle and as it is the last one the fuel out is blanked off. is this right or should it return somewhere?
Dont want to start removing injectors. should i just try and soak up all this fluid?
runs fine overall but no idea if it is only on 5 cylinders.
crossover pipe and plastic cover is off. now holes exposed which i am guess hold the injectors (fuel line connects the first from filter and rest connected from the one in front).
the end injector (?) seems to be sitting in a bath of liquid. i have been running on 50%-70% veg for past 300 miles and doesnt feel or smell like that. not expert in what diesel smells like but it smells paint strippery to me.
what is going on? could it be a slow fuel leak?
As with the other injectors this one has a fuel in and fuel out nozzle and as it is the last one the fuel out is blanked off. is this right or should it return somewhere?
Dont want to start removing injectors. should i just try and soak up all this fluid?
runs fine overall but no idea if it is only on 5 cylinders.
spock500
Active Member
If the injector is sitting in fluid its most likely to be the small leak off pipes which connect each injector - they are notorious for leaking themselves and can have a dramatic impact on performance.
Pipe is cheap at around £5 if you cut it yourself, even when I did mine I wasn't 100% happy with the join. Reason being is when they get hot the rubber softens along with its 'grip' on the nozzle.
MB recognised this and changed something but not sure what.
The blank off is fine, if you buy a pipe from ebay it comes with two (ones a spare)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DIESEL-INJECT...hash=item350079891782&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318
Pipe is cheap at around £5 if you cut it yourself, even when I did mine I wasn't 100% happy with the join. Reason being is when they get hot the rubber softens along with its 'grip' on the nozzle.
MB recognised this and changed something but not sure what.
The blank off is fine, if you buy a pipe from ebay it comes with two (ones a spare)
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/DIESEL-INJECT...hash=item350079891782&_trksid=p3286.m14.l1318
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