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w203 c220 cdi coupe starting problem

holodram

Member
Joined
Feb 20, 2011
Messages
46
Location
york
Car
c220 cdi c class coupe
hello to you all

car developed a starting problem last week
first thing in morning the car starts with no problems at all for 20-30 seconds then cuts out .. totally dead for at least 30 minutes of trying , cranks but not starts , also clicking noise under the bonnet
any help??
watch the video ive included in this post please
thank you all in advance for any help

w203 220 cdi starting problem - YouTube

 
You may have an air leak in the fuel system. Common places are fuel pump and fuel pipes under bonnet.
 
thank you blackc55
have you watched the the video of it on youtube?
how do i identify an air leak?
thanks
 
holodram said:
hello to you all

car developed a starting problem last week
first thing in morning the car starts with no problems at all for 20-30 seconds then cuts out .. totally dead for at least 30 minutes of trying , cranks but not starts , also clicking noise under the bonnet
any help??
watch the video ive included in this post please
thank you all in advance for any help

w203 220 cdi starting problem - YouTube

Your battery might be flat,or faulty starter motor
 
battery is a year old and tested it it seems good tho
 
holodram said:
thank you blackc55
have you watched the the video of it on youtube?
how do i identify an air leak?
thanks

Look for air in the clear pipes.
 
looked at all pipes and there arent any clear ones to look at, they're all black rubber pipes
 
Have you checked earth straps, battery to body and body to engine etc are tight?
Also starter connections and the battery terminal connections?
The SBS self check light on mine goes off after a few seconds, where as yours appears to stay on. I may be wrong but it seems to point to an electrical fault to me.
Did you do, or have any work done on it just prior to the fault developing?
 
checked all the battery wires .. all seem ok
and no the problem just started last week .. got the car serviced but still the fault is there
 
Take the engine covers off and have a look at the fuel pipes. They are clear pipes covered with a plastic sleeve.

Rather than guessing and not being sure it may be best to take it to someone that can diagnose it for you.
 
Having watched your video again, it's just not cranking enough (nano second) to fire it up and it looks as though you have the engine covers removed anyway.
I would still think it points to an electrical fault, loose or dirty connection, faulty starter solenoid or starter motor, faulty EIS (electronic ignition switch) or faulty relay.
Can you pinpoint where that high pitched noise is coming from?

As Olly says, it may be better to have it diagnosed rather than guessing.
 
Last edited:
hello again
just had the RAC guy looking at it, he thinks ints ECU related fault
plugged the OBD thing into the car and those fault were stored on the memory :

p2084 : Exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit range / performance bank 1 sensor 2
p1436 : downstream three-way catalyst (TWC) Temperature sensor (B19/8)
p2070 : intake manifold tuning valve stuck open
p2509 : ECM / PCM Power input signal intermittent
p2076 : intake manifold tuning valve position sensor/ switch circuit range/ performance
p2028 : evaporative emissions fuel vapour temperature sensor circuit
p2034 : Exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit bank 2 sensor 2
p2073 : O2 sensor upstream three-way catalyst (TWC) (G3/2)implausible
p2537 : glow output stage (N14/2)
p1630 : electronic immobiliser
p2032 : Exhaust gas temperature sensor circuit low bank 1 sensor 2

mechanic thinks its the ECU thats giving all these faults
not sure what to think now ...
 
Someone who knows more may be along soon, but I would think that the advice will be to get it on a proper MB Star diagnostic machine, get the faults cleared, as you don't know how long they've been there, unless it was checked and cleared when you had it serviced and then see which faults it throws up again.

As I say though, someone who knows better may look at the list of faults and confirm the RAC guy's thoughts.

Re-reading your initial post, are you saying that it starts and runs ok when it's cold, or that you can't drive it because it cuts out after a few seconds?
 
it runs perfectly fine first thing in the morning when cold for 20-30 seconds then it dies and does what shows in the video ... then about 30 -40 minutes later of constant trying to starts it .. it fires up again and it runs perfect for the rest of the day (provided its not left for over 4 hours to get cold)
 
Ignore my posts about the fuel pipes. I've just watched the vid for the first time.

This looks like a power issue. Are the battery terminals tight?
 
yea they're not loose at all, ive tried the car 5 minutes ago and only run for 5 seconds this time then engine cut out ...
 
ok so you have a better idea of what happens ...
the car DOES start for about 20 seconds then the engine cuts out and after that is what happens in the video for about 25 -40 minutes of turning ignition on and off then suddenly the engine fires up and all good till i stop the engine and gets cold again if left not driven

can dead glow plugs cause this?

thanks
 
Last edited:
Have you disconnected and white greased all and any solenoids you can find, try this in the main fuse box too, it sounds to me like a weak eleccy problem somewhere, maybe if it starts ok first thing in the morning ok then it could be a problem with the glow plug control unit or related to that circuit, thats where I would start as it seems when the glow plug circuit has had time to cool down/recover then the car starts ok and then cuts out after starting again, perhaps the glowplug relay is shorting and sending a stop signal to the ecu?
paul.
 
....not exactly sure on your model but I am pretty sure the glow plug circuit continues to work for approximately up to 1 minute after starting which is why I suggest checking the glow plug relay out, they are common failures on diesels whatever make.
 

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