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W208 CLK 320 - Some engine issues

My320CLK said:
Hmmm thats a shame - the leads are they 100% correct in terms of fitment on the a and b on the coil packs and are they on the coil packs fully, they are the same ones I bought in a clear bag,

I know when I fitted them my brother went over them again and a good few weren't fully mounted on the coil packs even though didn't feel loose, really tight fit,
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I will check soon whether the connections to the coil pack and plugs are tight.

How do I check for a and B? Is there a marking on the leads?

Also, are the leads simply pulled out from the coil packor do I have to open the coil.pack cover? Thanks
 
With all the trouble and disappointment this problem is giving you would it not be an idea to let MB have a look at it?

Tony.
 
jotter22 said:
With all the trouble and disappointment this problem is giving you would it not be an idea to let MB have a look at it?

Tony.
Click to expand...

Yes, I have booked it in at my MB dealership for next Tuesday, just yesterday tbh. They will charge £50 + VAT for initial inspection. Their labour costs are going to be rocket high so that's why I would prefer it turns out to be a loose connection or something, which I can hopefully fix myself.
 
My suggestion would be to find a new MB Indie. Your current one doesnt seem to be helping that much? Anyone know how you clean a CAT. A blocked Cat will give you issues but I wasnt aware you could clean them.

Also, I am quite surprised that for all the issues you have had, HT leads left disconnected etc that the MIL has not triggered in response to the Misfires. Are you sure he is using STAR?

Get him to disable each coil pack in turn to do a check for smooth engine running and a few old school compression checks.
 
markmifsud said:
My suggestion would be to find a new MB Indie. Your current one doesnt seem to be helping that much? Anyone know how you clean a CAT. A blocked Cat will give you issues but I wasnt aware you could clean them.

Also, I am quite surprised that for all the issues you have had, HT leads left disconnected etc that the MIL has not triggered in response to the Misfires. Are you sure he is using STAR?

Get him to disable each coil pack in turn to do a check for smooth engine running and a few old school compression checks.
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To be honest, I totally agree with you on this one. They call them selves a Mercedes-Benz 'Specialist' but I don't think they qualify to that level. When I first took the car to them, the first thing they inspected was the spark plugs, which is acceptable since that is the common item to suspect. After looking at the spark plugs, they found out that some (note the word 'some') of the plugs had carbon build up on the tips. What did they recommend? Change all the plugs to genuine MB plugs - they didn't have an idea as to why some of them had carbon build-up. Neither did they bother to check which of the 'some' bad-condition plugs came from which cylinder - this could have made diagnosing the problem a little easier I'm sure? All they did was remove the old plugs, dump them in a bag, put the new ones in and gave the bag of old plugs to me to prove they didn't mess about.

After that, they recommended a throttle valve clean (free of charge) so I took the car to get that done. Result? Car still shaking at idle (and this time worse than before). What did the mechanic say? "Your car is totally fine, I wouldn't worry about, they all shake when idling". Then I had no choice and told them to change the HT leads and I am curious that they have either mixed the 'a' and 'b' leads or haven't fitted them tight enough. I will have to get a nice bright flash light and check that the leads are fully pushed in at both sides and that the As and Bs haven't been mixed (that is going to be a challenge? Is A the top plug lead and B the bottom plug lead??)

Since the loose plug lead, they didn't check the car on STAR so I'm not sure if a misfire code has been logged - by the time I got back to the workshop, the mechanic was just about to leave.

They say they use STAR but I'm not sure. Even if they do, it may not be the updated version? I told them to diagnose the problem through common procedures such as multi-meter diagnosis and compression tests but their saying is that if STAR is clear, the car is fine.


I have decided to not take the car to them for the time-being and let MB have a look. Even though they will change a ridiculous amount of money, at least their technicians are fully qualified and have the relevant experience to diagnose the problem plus they have the latest/updated version of star.
 
The age of the Star system will not affect the readings. Where are you? perhaps someone here can recommend a good Indie.

I am not sure that mixing A and B leads is an issue other than lead length. The twin spark system is quite complicated and will produce a spark on each plug at the same time at low revs, and stagger the spark timing as revs increase. It also spreads the load so that no plug, A or B is always used first.

BTW, NGK plugs are listed as correct, along with the Bosch
 
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markmifsud said:
The age of the Star system will not affect the readings. Where are you? perhaps someone here can recommend a good Indie.

I am not sure that mixing A and B leads is an issue other than lead length. The twin spark system is quite complicated and will produce a spark on each plug at the same time at low revs, and stagger the spark timing as revs increase. It also spreads the load so that no plug, A or B is always used first.

BTW, NGK plugs are listed as correct, along with the Bosch
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Im in Leicester. Apparently they are a recognized MB specialist. My dad was recommended to take his (at the time) E280 CDI to them for a service, through his friend and we have a good relation with the boss plus they have a friendly service but I'm not happy with their mechanical knowledge.

Its surprising because the mechanic said that NGK are not suitable for this model (I also was curious as to whether or not this was true) but just took his word and.got the plugs changed. It looks like he was wrong... I just hope that the new plugs are not getting accumulation of carbon on the tips again as the car is driven frequently.
 
forget what I said about NGK, on my 02 they are listed as the same as yours, but also NGK PFR 5 R-11, but on a 2000 car its listed as Bosch F 8 DPER or Beru 14 FGH 8 DPUR X 2. maybe the NGK were not available at the time?
 
I expect it has a very slight lump when ticking over. Most 112V6 engines suffer with this. New leads and spark plugs are a good start.

The Star will pick up minor misfires in the smooth engine running section of "actual values". They all pretty much do this. I think you will find that you will be chasing your tail with this one as I have been there. A very slightly dirty injector can cause it, but its a nightmare to find which one.

If you want to define where the miss is coming from an oscilloscope will be the only tool that will find it asI guess it is a slight misfire.
 
BlackC55 said:
I expect it has a very slight lump when ticking over. Most 112V6 engines suffer with this. New leads and spark plugs are a good start.

The Star will pick up minor misfires in the smooth engine running section of "actual values". They all pretty much do this. I think you will find that you will be chasing your tail with this one as I have been there. A very slightly dirty injector can cause it, but its a nightmare to find which one.

If you want to define where the miss is coming from an oscilloscope will be the only tool that will find it asI guess it is a slight misfire.
Click to expand...

Yes, I can understand that its a 16 year old car and a tad shake at idle is nothing to worry about. The shake I'm experiencing is more of a noticeable shake and I can even see the ssteering wheel move a tad from left to right at idle. The funniest thing is that the intensity of the shake increases as the car is kept at.idle for longer (a long red light for example) and then settles (but doesn't reduce) after a while.

Also, I can even see the engine itself move from left to right a little - this surely isn't normal?

To entertain the shake at idle, the rpm needle always fluctuates at idle as well - this isn't normal surely.

All the previous fuel fills have been Shell V-Power (about 4 tank fulls so far) so any perishable dirt in the injectors must have gone.by now.

I will take the car on a long run some time soon with some VPower and see if that does any good...

Also, I'm getting around 220 miles per full tank which is pretty bad (even though.its fully town driving). Atleast 250-300 miles sounds decent.
 
300 miles for town driving in a 320 clk is dreamland

Sorry
 
As above. Now that its getting colder, I am lucky to see 26mpg in mixed driving London/Motorway
 
Atleast 250 then??

220 from a full tank (70 L) equates to 15.5 mpg roughly. Surely that is too low? Around 18/19 mpg should be occurring?

26 mpg!! That's non-existent in mine :)
 
At a steady 50mph (stuck in slow moving M25 trafic) I once saw 32mpg :)
 
If your lumpy idle is really noticeable then I would guess your egr vale is playing up and not seating correctly. The only clue star will give is a high air intake temperature.
It won't log a fault code
 
Ted said:
They can do better than that.
Click to expand...

That's very impressive.
 
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