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W210 Rust issues

KLP 92

MB Enthusiast
Joined
Nov 28, 2003
Messages
2,671
Location
London
Car
Mercedes S600, SL600, C250TD
I have just got my E55 W210 series on a 1999 plate. I know that the W210 is notorious for rusting and just like the rest of them mine has corrosion around the boot lock. So i thought as the car has a FMBSH and is less than 6 years old i presumed that MB would fix this with no quibles. So off i went to Watford MB in the morning.
I must have met the most stroppy looking bodywork inspector ever! Apparently the car isn't covered by any kind of bodywork warranty whatsoever or any Mobilo life etc. He said even if the car was covered under the warranty it would not be repaired FOC as its corrosion and not a defect in the paintwork or metal. He said he will put a goodwill claim in and see if MB Milton Keynes will agree to it but also said that i will probably have to contribute to 50% of the claim.
The final straw came when he said they may refuse to contribute at all as the car hadn't been serviced in the last 16 months even though its only covered less than 8k since!!! At this point i lost my cool and stated that if the car's ASSYST is not asking for a service then it doesn't need a service!! Then he simply stated he's doing his job!
Anyway what i want to know is how many years is the bodywork warranty valid and when did Mobilolife begin? Also what are my chances of getting a free repair to my vehicle?
 
I always thought Mobilo Life was 30 years warranty for rust CLICK ME Thats the best link I can find.
It was introduced on cars registered after sometime in October 1998 and your car needs to be serviced within the last 24 months.
You should well be in :mad: I'd take it to another dealer
For more information, please phone the Hotline: 00800 1 777 7777
 
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Mobilo Life started around October 1998, I'm not sure of the exact date. The bodywork should be covered for 30 years. It sounds like you got a complete numpty who got up on the wrong side of bed that particular day.

TBH I would go to a completely different dealer rather than deal with Mr. Stroppy.

My experience was a complete opposite to yours. I went in asking for a quote to repair rust damage to the NSR wheel arch and they were the ones trying to convince me to go and pursue MB-HQ (MK) for a warranty claim. I got it, and they were great to deal with.

It really is a lottery as to whether claims are successful or not and/or whether your local stealer is either helpful or obstructive.

S.
 
Here I go again ;) First off Mobilolife has superceded Mobilo Warranty. The answer to actually being covered lies in your service booklet.

If your service booklet does not mention Mobilo Warranty then your vehicle is too old.

If your vehicle is covered then the terms and conditions can be found in the booklet.

What the modern Mobilolife warranty explains is that the warranty is renewed at every scheduled service of the vehicles life. This service must be carried out by an authorised Mercedes-Benz dealer (not an exact quote)

Now members on this forum will state they have had goodwill repairs without a full service history, others have had to pay a percentage.

I have no disagreement with them and am simply outlining the 'party line'. I carried out a poll recently and was very surprised at the result. The 210 appears to have 'problems', and there are a large proportion that are being struck down by the dreaded rust beetle.

I can envisage Merrcedes-Benz insisting that only vehicles that have complied fully with the terms and conditions of the warranty having their claims accepted.

Obviously I cannot comment on the 'body inspector' who dealt with your claim, but all servicing of Mercedes-Benz vehicles is recorded on computer, so he cannot authorise a Mobilo warranty claim without being convinced the vehicle is entitled to it, otherwise he is in deep 'do-do'

I hope I have not been too contraversial, and good luck with your claim.

John
 
Try another dealer, thats what I did and got a result second time of trying. Plus take a file with all the printouts from this forum regarding corrosion and have a solicoters letter at the top of the file, mine was regarding some wayleaves on telegraph poles but the bodywork bloke didnt know that!!
 
My W210 is 1999 vintage and I had rust appearing around the keyhole for the boot. MB fitted a new boot and respayed accordingly. I went to my dealer yesterday to have my MAF checked on the star machine, and it was returned with a 4025 update checked as being carried out. When asked what this was I was told it was a quality measure, and the door seals were pulled back and wax applied. No charges for this work.
 
Pietre said:
the door seals were pulled back and wax applied. No charges for this work.

Hmmmmm, I think MB are taking the piss here, - they are well aware of rust behind the seals for which the only safe cure is a new door (very expensive to MB under the Mobil warranty,

So, by applying a bit of wax oil they can delay the signs of rust (not prevent it) long enough for the car to have changed hands and more likely be serviced by a non MB dealer - Bingo!!! future warranty claim denied.
 
PaulSmart said:
So, by applying a bit of wax oil they can delay the signs of rust (not prevent it) long enough for the car to have changed hands and more likely be serviced by a non MB dealer - Bingo!!! future warranty claim denied.


Morning Paul,
;) What a suspicous cynic! ;) I wonder how much the modern horrible water based paint has to do with the problem. Most, if not all manufacturers are now using this paint but there must be a learning curve and I wonder what has gone wrong with the 210 and perhaps what lessons have they learnt?

I am interested to hear if KLP 92 has checked the Service Booklet to see if it mentions Mobilo.

Regards,
John
 
glojo said:
Morning Paul,
;) What a suspicous cynic! ;) I wonder how much the modern horrible water based paint has to do with the problem. Most, if not all manufacturers are now using this paint but there must be a learning curve and I wonder what has gone wrong with the 210 and perhaps what lessons have they learnt?

I am interested to hear if KLP 92 has checked the Service Booklet to see if it mentions Mobilo.

Regards,
John

It doesn't mention mobilo in the service booklet. but neither does my C250 TD which is 2 months older. I've called Mobilo life for it and they did come out and start my vehicle (flat battery)
 
KLP 92 said:
It doesn't mention mobilo in the service booklet. but neither does my C250 TD which is 2 months older. I've called Mobilo life for it and they did come out and start my vehicle (flat battery)

Hi KLP,
The most important thing I want to stress is that I am on your side and the side of everyone that has found corossion on such a nice vehicle.

What I am attempting to do is clarify whether you have Mobilo cover.

I cannot understand why there is no mention of it in your service booklet if your vehicle is actually covered? I had an E-class 210 and the Mobilo conditions were clearly laid down in the booklet. I note in your opening post the car is on a '99 plate? I think Mobilo was introduced in November 1998, this leaves two options. Either they did not reprint the service booklets quick enough for the first vehicles to become entitled to this, or your car was produced before November 1998!

I accept that you called out Mobilolife for your old C250TD and there is no doubt that the vehicle was definitely not covered. Likewise members have had new wings, doors etc on their vehicles when the car was not covered. You were lucky, they were lucky. However if the vehicle is not covered then it quite simply is not covered.

Regards,
John
 
I don't think the existence of a leaflet or whatever makes a difference to anyone. If the vehicle was supplied after November 1998 and it has a service stamp in the book that's less than 2 years old then they're obliged to fix their shoddy workmanship!
 
Shude said:
I don't think the existence of a leaflet or whatever makes a difference to anyone. If the vehicle was supplied after November 1998 and it has a service stamp in the book that's less than 2 years old then they're obliged to fix their shoddy workmanship!

Morning Shude,
I blame myself for not making my meaning clear. The actual service booklet should carry the information, and NOT a little 'leaflet'

Regards
John
 
glojo said:
;) What a suspicous cynic! ;) I wonder how much the modern horrible water based paint has to do with the problem. Most, if not all manufacturers are now using this paint but there must be a learning curve and I wonder what has gone wrong with the 210 and perhaps what lessons have they learnt?

Yep!! your'e probably right, so furthermore, cynically speaking, I don't think the paint is the major issue here, as far as I'm aware I know of no other car / manufacturer of the last 10 years to have a rust problem. so we are back to skimping costs in quality / design / assembly. And a learning curve which was pretty flat for the w210 as my year 2000 is rusting after the w210 had already a 6 year production run!!

What wax product was used???? was it wax oil spray - I've been using WD40, each month to keep the rust from growing, but would like to try something more suited to rust prevention.
 
PaulSmart said:
What wax product was used???? was it wax oil spray - I've been using WD40, each month to keep the rust from growing, but would like to try something more suited to rust prevention.


Hi Paul,
I think there are rust problems out there. My very much younger brother has a year 2000 Ford and he is most unhappy about the corossion that is appearing in numerous places. I have not however heard of mass complaints from the likes of BMW though. Because of the very specific location of the rust on the 210 it certainly looks like either a design or application problem. Is there sufficient drainage or ventilation at the locations, or is the coating being applied correctly? (are the robots 'missing' specific areas?)


I want to throw this to the experts. Is WD40 a good rust preventative?

My own personal opinion is it is more a 'penetrating' fluid with perhaps a very little lubrication that actually dissolves and then it leaves the area just as exposed?

I tend to try to steer away from that particular product and go with a more 'silicone' based one. Am I doing right?

If you have squeaky hinges would it be better to use a silicone based lubricant as opposed to WD40?

Regards,
John
 
Might be better off painting hidden areas with some kind of rust-eater (which effectively galvanises the metal as part of the process, I'm told) or maybe some similar-coloured hammerite, which is designed to be painted onto rust without preparation and shouldn't get affected by rust again. Won't look pretty but if it's a hidden area and the stealership won't help then maybe it'll prevent your doors or other areas rotting away to nothing.
 
I LOVE WD40!!!!

Its alwaus worth a squirt first for almost anything!!!!

I had a 'lazy' electric door mirror - couple of good squirts cured that, also did the accelerator pedal hinges, smoothed the action there...

great stuff - so I'm curious what causes you concern about it?? what are the alternative silicone stuff??

also, again can someone supply the prouct name for the wax
 
Shude said:
Might be better off painting hidden areas with some kind of rust-eater (which effectively galvanises the metal as part of the process, I'm told) or maybe some similar-coloured hammerite, which is designed to be painted onto rust without preparation and shouldn't get affected by rust again. Won't look pretty but if it's a hidden area and the stealership won't help then maybe it'll prevent your doors or other areas rotting away to nothing.

Thats exactly what I had to do to my front wheel arches. When MB replaced the rear tailgate, they quoted something silly to fix the very slight bubbling under the lips of the arches, MB would contribute 0% towards it!! Needless to say I used some black hammerite.

This spring I shall be undersealing the whole of the car and spraying the inner panels and cavities.
 
PaulSmart said:
I LOVE WD40!!!!

Its alwaus worth a squirt first for almost anything!!!!

I had a 'lazy' electric door mirror - couple of good squirts cured that, also did the accelerator pedal hinges, smoothed the action there...

great stuff - so I'm curious what causes you concern about it?? what are the alternative silicone stuff??

also, again can someone supply the prouct name for the wax

Hi Paul,
Hopefully more knowledgeable folks will contribute to this slightly off topic, but I think interesting point.

WD40 was a brilliant innovation when it first cameout. I believe it was tested by the military way back in the '60's. We called it 'Instant maintenance' (I hope I've spelt that right)

However it was found that once you started to use it, then care had to be taken that the area was cleaned and then lubricated with oil or grease otherwise the part would seize up again.

Modern improvements to this product are now readily available from the likes of Halfords. Unfortunately I don't get out as much as I used to, so I would recommend that you ask an assistant or look at the different brands and just try one that is 'silicone' based, this silicone will not dissolve or evaporate as quickly.

Good luck,
John
 
glojo said:
Hi Paul,

I want to throw this to the experts. Is WD40 a good rust preventative?

My own personal opinion is it is more a 'penetrating' fluid with perhaps a very little lubrication that actually dissolves and then it leaves the area just as exposed?

I tend to try to steer away from that particular product and go with a more 'silicone' based one. Am I doing right?

If you have squeaky hinges would it be better to use a silicone based lubricant as opposed to WD40?

Regards,
John

John,

WD40 is useful stuff indeed, but it is not a long term fix. It will evaporate off and so I do not for example rely on it for keeping rust off stored metal objects. For that I use the dreaded Cosmoline, which everybody else seems to spend their time trying to get off car engines and parts when new:

Cosmoline: A yellowish or light-amber colored ointment like mass, having a slight fluorescence, petroleum like odour. Similar to Vaseline but thinner. It is the residue obtained in the distillation of petroleum oils and then purified. Cosmoline is a homogenous mixture of oily and waxy long-chain, non-polar hydrocarbons.

Waxoyl is a better preventative solution for cars and the clear stuff is quite clean really if you are careful. Any rust treatment needs to be suited for the place it is applied to: there are many types.

For the dreaded squeaks and general lubrication I have found that Finish Line is very good. It is a "dry" lubricant intended for use on bike chains and gears. Comes in a spay can and comes out very runny so it gets into nooks & crannies but solvent soon evaporates off leaving a non sticky lubricant film.
 

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