W211 ARB Drop Link Replacement?

[Paragon1970]

Hi Folks,

Hopefully a couple of quick question....
Is it possible to remover an ARB (Anti Roll Bar) drop link by jacking up one front side of the car?
Also when doing so is there any expected tension that I should be cautious of when removing them?

I intend to do one at a time on my driveway.

Thanks!

 

[Reamer]

When I did mine I jacked each side in turn.

There is load on them from the suspension. If you use a proper ball joint splitter ( none destructive type) just separate the top ball joint. This will give you enough movement to ease them out as the top bolt on the ARB link is tight against the shock leg.




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[Paragon1970]

Thank for this info Reamer.

I have already replaced the upper ball joint and have the correct tool so not too much trouble to revisit that.

Will give it a try.

Thanks Again.

 

[Paragon1970]

Is it safe to remove a drop link then take car for a short test drive so as to determine whether knocking sound continues or abates?

Talking about driving short distance around the block.

Thanks.

 

[Reamer]

Is it safe to remove a drop link then take car for a short test drive so as to determine whether knocking sound continues or abates?

Talking about driving short distance around the block.

Thanks.

Yes so long as you don't through the car around. I did this myself to rule them and the sway bar out. Turns out it was my strut mounts causing the flutter noise at low speed. Car feels brand new now.

If you do end up changing your strut mounts, make sure the top shock nut is tight as this can also cause a rattle/flutter.

 

[Paragon1970]

Heres a quick update:

Today I replaced ARB drop link and decided to replace the inner ball joint (32220 see image below) that connects to the lower part of drop link and spring control arm. (33142)

I was aiming to turn a collar on the lathe to fit over the studed part so as to press this ball joint out in one piece but in the end I thought sod it and ended up pushing the threaded part with ball out through the back then I used one of the press mandrels to force the rest of the ball joint out. When it went it went off like a gun but then was easy going to drive out.

Replacing with the new ball joint was in part far easier.
All of this was done on the car.
Popped steering rod ball joint and upper ball joint for access and milled a 12 mm hex stud to fit the upper drop link since this is quite a tight squeeze.

Once completed reconnected everything back to how they should be.
Nipped the drop link nuts up to 130nm torque as stated in WIS while car was lowered, and took for a test drive, Jeez still have the darn noise!

Guess I should try the lower ball joint next, I have them but been putting it off, they also look fine to me so its guess work and its driving me crazy!

Image of suspension components:



All the best!

 

[streethawk]

I've the same niggling noise which your average Joe wouldn't hear. I've change everything but the front rear bottom arm but like you say all seems good. There is a chap on here that has changed the top strut mount and cured it. I think this is my problem. You only here (very quite tapper) the only way u can explain it! Is when one wheel is going over rough ground which would suggest arb drop link but I think the culprit is a top mount. Hope this helps and it's another bill to buy it and hopefully sorts it.

 

[Paragon1970]

The sound I have is almost like a worble well I know thats not very descriptive but its like multiple knocks when going over uneven road or even when hitting road joins, rather than hearing a reassuring dampened thud its like a ba-ba-ba-ba, if I am not loosing my mind (well I am actually) I would say the said noise continues a short while after hitting the uneven surface, its gotten progressively worse and its driving me crazy.

Ive also nipped up the nut on top of the strut for good measure.

One thing is for sure my diy tool inventory is expanding by the darn day

 

[190]

I had a low speed clunk from the NSF suspension and some research including an MB service bulletin suggested it was a faulty strut. Dealer wouldn't believe it of course but in the end a new strut was the only thing that cured the problem.

Normal dampers don't often cause this sort of noise but I presume the reason that my strut developed a clunk is because it has an internal adaptive damping mechanism. If your suspension has this feature the strut might be a suspect.

 

[Paragon1970]

Thanks Folks.

What is the procedure to replace the top mount and dito for the dampers?
Is there any cause for concern?
What tools are required, would I need spring compression tools for example?

Cheers

 

[Reamer]

Just completed strut mount replacement.

I have to say the old mounts appeared to be fine. However once replacements were fitted it was night and day. My front shocks were new.

You will need spring compression tools. Other than than just usual sockets and such.

Split the top ball joint to remove the shock as this gives the down travel to get the shock out.

Make sure the top shock nut is right. [emoji106]


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[OneForTheRoad]

My persistent knock was the front torque arm ball joint , I found this out after changing the middle arm , the link arm and the hub ball joint .

 

[streethawk]

Just completed strut mount replacement.

I have to say the old mounts appeared to be fine. However once replacements were fitted it was night and day. My front shocks were new.

You will need spring compression tools. Other than than just usual sockets and such.

Split the top ball joint to remove the shock as this gives the down travel to get the shock out.

Make sure the top shock nut is right. [emoji106]

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This chap is who I was on about

 

[Paragon1970]

Thanks Chaps.

So I have an idea to gaffa tape two or three mini usb microphones around the various components and run usb extensions leads from them to macbook / laptop running soundflower (multi audio device aggregator) to garageband or Audacity multichannel open source recording software available for linux, osx and ms$.

Set each mic to a unique channel.
Calibrate all mics to register approximately same db levels for a given test sound.
Position / tape mics to suspected components and run leads back to laptop.
Once setup take the darn car for a drive while recording multiple channels.
Review recording waveforms and volume levels for knocking instances.
The theory being that identification of knock should be the mic that hears the knock first and which has the loudest amplitude.

Long winded process I agree but could save a bunch of money and time living with hope swapping out good components.

Here are the microphone components described:
Mini USB Microphone (ebay)

3M USB extension lead (ebay)


Audacity Multitrack Recording software (Open Source)
Audacity®

Having said all this I am not sure it will even work but the concept appears feasible.
What do you folks think?

Cheers,
P