270cdi, new manifold or deflap?

Martyn_n

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I've just this minute finished removing the inlet manifold from my ML (Not a great job in this weather!!) and am now considering my next step; should I buy a new inlet manifold and fit that or do I plug the holes in the old one and refit that with the motor working but disconnected?

The existing one appears to be the original with 130k miles and 12 years under it's belt so if I do replace it with a new one it will probably see the car out, however the cost of a new one would buy a lot of wine or a remap (probably wine).

Has anyone had experience of either or both approaches and have any sage advice they could pass on that will help me decide.

For what it is worth I am swaying towards plugging the holes up but am definitely open to changing my mind if there are compelling reasons to do so.

Thanks in advance for all the help I have no doubt you guys will have.

Cheers,

Martyn
 

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I would replace the manifold. There are genuine Peirburg ones on ebay. The reason is they do crack along the seams.
 
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Martyn_n

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I would replace the manifold. There are genuine Peirburg ones on ebay. The reason is they do crack along the seams.

Thanks olly, I wasn't aware of the cracking issue. I have seen some on ebay but none listed as Pierburg, what is your view of vaico as a manufacturer?
 

BlackC55

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We have just fitted one. It was ok ish. The customer supplied it. You will need gaskets as it does not come with any.
 
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Martyn_n

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Thanks Olly, I have now fitted a Vaico one as it was available locally and agree with you about the quality. Just one more question, is there a knack to refitting the thermostat? The silly pipe underneath it makes it really difficult to align the holes. (I have also buggered the thread on one of the 'stat mounting holes so will have to helicoil that before I fit the new one!!)
 

grumpyoldgit

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Thanks Olly, I have now fitted a Vaico one as it was available locally and agree with you about the quality. Just one more question, is there a knack to refitting the thermostat? The silly pipe underneath it makes it really difficult to align the holes. (I have also buggered the thread on one of the 'stat mounting holes so will have to helicoil that before I fit the new one!!)

See if this helps Martyn. I fitted a new stubby pipe when I changed my stat, don't know if it was easier than trying to replace the old one, but I didn't have any problems.

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/1635760-post1.html
 
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Martyn_n

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See if this helps Martyn. I fitted a new stubby pipe when I changed my stat, don't know if it was easier than trying to replace the old one, but I didn't have any problems.

http://www.mbclub.co.uk/forums/1635760-post1.html

Thanks Mike, an excellent guide and one I wish I knew existed before I pulled the thread out of the head!! (Repeat after me 9Nm 9Nm...) Other than the torque setting I think I was going about it the right way, fingers crossed I'll have better luck when I try again this weekend!
 
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Martyn_n

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I've put it all back together unfortunately the car is now showing all the signs of being in limp mode. I've checked all the connectors and hoses and I am certain that they are all reconnected so I'm struggling to see what has happened.

I think that cleaning up the flap motor may have killed it off. Before I did the job I could see the rods beneath the manifold moving when I blipped the throttle (even though it wasn't connected to the flap) but now there is no movement.

Two questions, is this lack of movement a sign that the motor has failed or is the motor somehow disabled when in limp mode for any other reason? Secondly has anyone replaced a motor with the manifold in-situ? I appreciate it is tight but I don't fancy removing the manifold twice in a couple of weeks!
 

remlap

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Make sure the connector on the end has not popped off, as that will cause that trouble a press on plastic ball connected to a ball socket
 
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Martyn_n

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Make sure the connector on the end has not popped off, as that will cause that trouble a press on plastic ball connected to a ball socket
When I manually manipulate the flaps I can feel the resistance of the motor and they go back to position with the aid of the spring in the motor so I know that it is still attached, thanks for the input though. I believe that if the motor isn't connected to the flaps, as long as it operates the ecu is happy anyway.
 
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Martyn_n

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Does anybody know if you can bench test the motor if I were able to remove it? i.e. can you apply voltage to two of the three terminals, if so which ones?
 

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